Stuck Lug Nuts
#21
Convergent. While alloy wheels can be a pain they will not cause a problem if properly installed.1st use an anti sieze on the threads 2nd good and tight doesnt cut it use a torque wrench 3rd re torque after about 50 miles. I know this sounds like a PIA but its worth the trouble down the road
#22
Gold Member
not to be smart but DOT. doesn't allow never seize / anti seize on wheel studs and nuts. A drop of motor oil is recommended torque to proper torque spec. and retorque after 50 - 100 miles. some inspection stations will fail a car if anti seize is used on wheel studs and nuts.
#23
Senior Member
not to be smart but DOT. doesn't allow never seize / anti seize on wheel studs and nuts. A drop of motor oil is recommended torque to proper torque spec. and retorque after 50 - 100 miles. some inspection stations will fail a car if anti seize is used on wheel studs and nuts.
https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/393.205
Last edited by gmb13; 03-08-2017 at 08:16 PM.
#24
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Old thread but if you have the problem it could help
I had to help drill some studs out recently(step kids ) . Problem was off brand mags that did not allow a thick impact socket on them . Don't use 12 points on lug nuts .
I'm not going to use heat on them too much chance of damage . Solution is real good bits and keeping it centered . Don't be cheap with the bits .Pilot hole first .
I anti seize all my lug nuts and I torque wrench them all on . I have six trailers and 5 vehicles but I don't live in salt country . Never have a problem .
I have put anti seize on the face of the hub sometimes if I see corrosion starting. Alum and steel don't like each other , I use high temp nickel antiseize for everything. I don't like using copper anti seize on alum .
Check those nuts before you start trailering each season ,don't go by feel . Feel those bearings a few miles down the road if they are getting hot, turn around and repack them .
I'm not going to use heat on them too much chance of damage . Solution is real good bits and keeping it centered . Don't be cheap with the bits .Pilot hole first .
I anti seize all my lug nuts and I torque wrench them all on . I have six trailers and 5 vehicles but I don't live in salt country . Never have a problem .
I have put anti seize on the face of the hub sometimes if I see corrosion starting. Alum and steel don't like each other , I use high temp nickel antiseize for everything. I don't like using copper anti seize on alum .
Check those nuts before you start trailering each season ,don't go by feel . Feel those bearings a few miles down the road if they are getting hot, turn around and repack them .
#25
Mark
iTrader: (1)
I also had to drill a stud out due to a tire shop impact gun.. just like redfish said.. drill a small pilot hole first and then step up.. good quality bits is a must.. it's not hard
#26
Senior Member
not to be smart but DOT. doesn't allow never seize / anti seize on wheel studs and nuts. A drop of motor oil is recommended torque to proper torque spec. and retorque after 50 - 100 miles. some inspection stations will fail a car if anti seize is used on wheel studs and nuts.
Completely false statement.
#27
Senior Member
Sensors and wheel bearings will be completely unaffected. In fact, the wheel bearing will get far hotter on it's own under normal driving conditions then any heat transfer from heating up a lug nut.
#28
Senior Member
Yeah, don't worry guys. My bearings, hubs, ABS sensors are still good to this day. Something like 5 years later!!! Why the hell is this thread being resurrected from the dead?
#30
I ran into this issue today, all 5 lug nuts. I to thought it was the tire shop that replaced the tire not to long ago, after trying everything I could, went to shop. I was told its a common issue with Ford. Yes the lug nuts can be heated and broken off at a cost.