Steering wheel straight, trucks drifts to the right
11-23-2017, 10:47 AM
#22
WindowGuy
Where I get mine aligned, they check all the components that can wear and effect alignment. If they aligned the truck to specs and it drifted, they would try to find out why. My point is, if all the shop that aligned your truck can do is set the alignment to specs, but they can't diagnose the cause of the drifting, you need to find a better shop.
11-23-2017, 11:48 AM
#23
LightningRod
No argument there. I couldn't find on. That included Dealership I bought my truck from new and local Pep Boys. I got frustrated (better known by another term) with the stupid "It's within all factory specs" and 'tweaked' mine myself and improved it dramatically. Took lots of patience and more time than many would have, but it can be done.
11-23-2017, 04:53 PM
#25
Senior Member
As stated,
make sure you get the tires "road force" balanced.
This can detect issues that otherwise go unnoticed on regular balancing machines.
I'd look for one of the more "modern" outfits with "modern" equipment who warranties their alignments.
Kouffman tire, if theres one around warranties their alignments for a year.
I had mine checked a while back, they said it needed to be done, I told them I'd wait as I was getting new tires in only a few weeks. Thats when he told me about the warranty. Said go ahead and have it done, get your tires, bring it back, and did it again for free.
I've had it done one other time on them already as well after I replaced tie rod ends, stabilizer links, and hub assembly.
Little do they know their bout to eat another one after I install the upper control arms, upper ball joints, lower ball joints and shock/strut assemblies I got sitting in my shop
!!!
Pretty good deal even though I dont care for the place!!
make sure you get the tires "road force" balanced.
This can detect issues that otherwise go unnoticed on regular balancing machines.
I'd look for one of the more "modern" outfits with "modern" equipment who warranties their alignments.
Kouffman tire, if theres one around warranties their alignments for a year.
I had mine checked a while back, they said it needed to be done, I told them I'd wait as I was getting new tires in only a few weeks. Thats when he told me about the warranty. Said go ahead and have it done, get your tires, bring it back, and did it again for free.
I've had it done one other time on them already as well after I replaced tie rod ends, stabilizer links, and hub assembly.
Little do they know their bout to eat another one after I install the upper control arms, upper ball joints, lower ball joints and shock/strut assemblies I got sitting in my shop
!!!
Pretty good deal even though I dont care for the place!!
11-23-2017, 05:06 PM
#26
Senior Member
Hey @Jamieat ^^^^ I'm 100% in agreement with checking all ball joints and linkages for slack and get it all in tip top order.
BUT:
'in the direction needed to offset the direction of the pull??? What direction is that?
You know I don't intend to be argumentative. I just want to stir up everybody's grey matter on the issue.
Doesn't the direction itself totally depend on the cause? I would counter that the cause needs to be determined before any alignment adjustments are made.
For example. "Caster" will actually "MOVE" the steering wheel (when you turn loose of it) trying to make "THAT" wheel roll straight forward. IF brake drag on the 'right rear' were the cause - and the tie rods were adjusted to move front wheel alignment "LEFT" --- Consider what would happen. 'CASTER' effect will move front wheel direction back toward the neutral caster -what it thinks is straight forward based on caster setting-. Compounding the right drift situation, I would think. At least making the vehicle 'crab' along with it's *** hanging out to the right. lol
A laser Thermometer comparing disk temp can give indication of dragging calipers. Rear drums are hard - but my thought is it would at least be somewhat reflected in the rotor temp. Seems the OP has checked front wheel rotation and didn't indicate a problem.
If 'Camber' is out enough to result in a pull - tires will certainly ware on inside or outside, and you can usually see it sighting from front or rear if front wheels are not standing straight up and down.
Just keep in mind. Adjusting tie rod ends to straighten steering wheel - can be confusing and seem backwards, because of caster effect on EACH front wheel separately (combined with 'camber', vehicle weight distribution, and road crown).
BUT:
'in the direction needed to offset the direction of the pull??? What direction is that?
You know I don't intend to be argumentative. I just want to stir up everybody's grey matter on the issue.
Doesn't the direction itself totally depend on the cause? I would counter that the cause needs to be determined before any alignment adjustments are made.
For example. "Caster" will actually "MOVE" the steering wheel (when you turn loose of it) trying to make "THAT" wheel roll straight forward. IF brake drag on the 'right rear' were the cause - and the tie rods were adjusted to move front wheel alignment "LEFT" --- Consider what would happen. 'CASTER' effect will move front wheel direction back toward the neutral caster -what it thinks is straight forward based on caster setting-. Compounding the right drift situation, I would think. At least making the vehicle 'crab' along with it's *** hanging out to the right. lol
A laser Thermometer comparing disk temp can give indication of dragging calipers. Rear drums are hard - but my thought is it would at least be somewhat reflected in the rotor temp. Seems the OP has checked front wheel rotation and didn't indicate a problem.
If 'Camber' is out enough to result in a pull - tires will certainly ware on inside or outside, and you can usually see it sighting from front or rear if front wheels are not standing straight up and down.
Just keep in mind. Adjusting tie rod ends to straighten steering wheel - can be confusing and seem backwards, because of caster effect on EACH front wheel separately (combined with 'camber', vehicle weight distribution, and road crown).
You are right.....as usual!!
I did not state the adjustment direction and phrased as such because, I do not know what direction the truck is pulling, and if I did, I still would not be able to, off the top of my head, give accurate advice on how to adjust.
I was merely trying to come up with a way to determine, by slight adjustment, if it may be a tie rod end adjustment that is needed or if the adjustment made no difference.
It is VERY confusing. I attempted adjusting mine several times when I replaced them just to get me by for the day as it was a sunday and the tire shop was closed.
Took tools with me and stopped several times adjusting them and boy, talk about out of whack!!!! I finally got it where I felt I wasnt gonna rip the tires in half until the next day.
Hey......it sounded good if you knew how to do it right??? Maybe??? LOL.
I agree the cause needs to be determined first. Just seems the shop the OP is using has missed something along the way, or neglected to test drive the vehicle before returning it.
Still say, road force balance the tires either way, it is better.
@Torqued, You Are The Man!!! and I would not dare argue with you......it would only make you look smarter. I always respect what you have to say and it is always fact based and verifiable information, which is what I "try" to give....lol Thanks Sir!!!
The following users liked this post:
F150Torqued (11-23-2017)
11-23-2017, 07:57 PM
#27
LightningRod
Thanks for the kind words. You heap a lot of praise on this ole red neck shade tree mechanic. Wait till you see my home-made catch can. I swear I'm not going to give up till I get me one designed out of a Beer Can. To clean it, I want to just cut the top out of another beer can off with my ole frog sticker, and clamped it on a large rubber stopper with a serpentine hose clamp. Think I can get the PVC lines in and out of the large stopper with no vacuum leaks!!!! 
11-23-2017, 11:12 PM
#28
It’s defiantly more of a pull can’t let your hand off it for 3 or 4 seconds before your off the right side of the road. I think I’m going to replace the front struts first to see if it will help. Also, will doing the alignment yourself severely wear the tires? Your doing it my hand and not using a machine.
11-24-2017, 09:25 AM
#29
LightningRod
@FordBoy05 I think that's a wise decision. Also, while you have struts out of there presents a very opportune time to check / replace ball joints - (and MAYBE upper control arms). Those lower ball joints carry 100% of the weight of the front end - ALL on that little ping-pong ball sized ball joint. If you have upwards of 100k miles, they could easily be worn/sloppy. (While you're there with struts, they aren't that hard to replace if you've got (or borrow from parts store) a hydraulic press.