New information. I just checked continuity from ignition post on starter solenoid to terminal 87 of the starter relay and it was good. This leads me to believe that from the NSS on is good. I think the problem is from the ignition switch to the NSS. I don't have continuity between the red/blue wire and the blue/orange wire. I'm thinking about grabbing some wire and stripping back some wire on the red/blue wire near the ignition switch and then stripping back some wire on the blue/orange wire going into NSS and seeing if the truck starts. Is this one way of checking that wire?

 

Sorry not sure if it was implied but I would run some wire from the beginning of the red/blue wire to the blue/orange wire to see if routing a new wire would be worth it. If the truck starts then I think I have a break in that wire. Is my logic correct? Should I try this?

 

I would try it.

 

The first picture shows the blue/orange wire going to the NSS that I spliced the red wire into. I ran the red wire under my truck and up to the ignition switch. I spliced the red wire into the red/blue wire and checked for continuity. I had continuity! The wires aren't permanent by any means but at least I could tell that there was a break in that part of the circuit. I disconnected the multi-meter and tried starting the truck. It started!!!

Now I just have to figure out how I want to route the wire but I'm happy to finally have a diagnosis and fix for this problem!

 

could be a bad connection in that central junc box pin 11 ofc270h or pin 1 of c270d most likely points of failure. '
I search for volts with a test lamp with someone holding to start.
Yes if you think a wire is bad you can bridge it but for safety sake use a 10 or 15 amp fuse jumper at low volts any 15 amp fuse will do , glass inline holder or use jumper clips to the prongs of the new type fuses .
you may find its a connector not the wire , or perhaps someone already put some bad butt splices in .
In salt country you have to seal those ends with silicone caulk . of course pin connectors on neutral sw could also be a culprit depends where you are losing signal .
By the way since you didn't blow the fuse when you jumped the start relay contacts , it will spark heavy as you are picking up the heavy load of the starter solenoid . I flatten the ends of two paper clips so it fits snugly in socket of relay then jump the protruding ends to get a good connection . Remember don't use ohms on a hot circuit . But for checking continuity you should get almost zero ohms on a piece of wire . same as shorting test leads together .
let us know .

 

I forgot some guys have had trouble in the steering column with wires getting damaged . Be very careful of airbag system in there , pull battery leads when in doubt . I know nothing about airbags .
let us know about your final fix .

 

Alright I've narrowed in on the trouble area. I believe it is somewhere inside the cab. I tried following the red/blue wire but couldn't get anywhere with that. I was able to test continuity of the blue/orange wire coming from the NSS all the way back up into the cab. I uploaded a pic of the connector that's located inside the bottom driver side of the cab. It's probably difficult to see but the bottom left wire right next to the green wire is the blue/orange wire that runs to the NSS. I tested continuity up to this point.
I'm calling it a night for now.

Tomorrow I will check to see if there is continuity from the bottom left blue/orange wire up to the top left blue/orange wire. If there is continuity going through the connector I'm thinking about cutting the top left wire and running a replacement wire up to the ignition switch. I'm still debating on what to do but at least a solution can be made within the cab.

 

Great to hear! These kinds of questions with posted solutions are what makes this place great!

 

If anyone has an answer please chime in. I'm not sure what happens to the red/blue wire the comes out of the ignition switch. According to the diagram it appears that it just runs from the ignition switch, at some point (most likely in cab I think) turns into the blue/orange wire, and then continues on to the NSS. If I can't trace the two wires to where they meet, I was planning on cutting the blue/orange wire and running that up to the ignition switch. I shouldn't need an in-line fuse for this right? Should I install one just because I'm messing with the wires anyway? Thoughts and opinions on the matter would be appreciated.

 

It is jumped over there . It may be wired over there to facilitate adding a security system to block starting . . I haven't messed with that fuse panel nor do I have pictures of one removed . I thought I was going to have to replace it once since the fuel pump relay is soldered on rear and if it went bad you have to replace the whole thing . Didn't have to .
Surely someone on here has pulled one out . I saw a post where someone replaced whole thing .
I would locate the right colored wires over there and see if the jump around it would work .
No fuses need to be added . You could just use sharp wire pins to pierce insulation to see if that would fix it with fused jumper . .