Reusing spindle nut-2WD Rotors
These bearings aren't just used in Ford trucks. Timken makes the bearing assembly, not Ford, but will not sell you the bearing alone due to their manufacturing agreement.
As to why they fail, not torquing to proper specs and reusing one time use parts could be fairly high on the list.
As to why they fail, not torquing to proper specs and reusing one time use parts could be fairly high on the list.
We each have an opinion, and are entitled to it, but I highly doubt the reason is what is stated in bold above. My opinion is bad design that is unable to properly handle the side loads on the front bearings on a 5500- 6000 lb. truck.
Last edited by Code 7; Nov 30, 2010 at 02:02 AM.
Sealed bearings on 'tours and 'stiques fail for just those reasons. Re-using the wheel nut, and not torquing to spec.
The rotors are a crap shoot. My father has had the original rotors on his truck for 50-60K with no issues, they look as good as the rotors on my wife's Taurus. The rotors on my truck, however, are headed for their second replacement soon at 70K.
The rotors are a crap shoot. My father has had the original rotors on his truck for 50-60K with no issues, they look as good as the rotors on my wife's Taurus. The rotors on my truck, however, are headed for their second replacement soon at 70K.
What concerns me the most other than having this type trouble in a truck that just passed 70,000 miles is that what's out on the market for OEM replacement parts are seemingly crap.
My truck now is on the forth set of front rotors due to brake jobs and wheel bearing failures also you only have 1.5MM of wear on the new rotor before you will need to replace the rotors again.
Imho I think its a very poor design, one that the maker of the best selling truck for however many years should never have put out on the road in the first place.
P.S. What is the current arrangement for the newer trucks? Have they (ford) gone back to tappered bearings? If so it would speak to something that was a bad idea going in.
Before I buy another experiment from ford I'm going to check on what's been changed so that I can figure if it's worth the trouble beforehand.
My truck now is on the forth set of front rotors due to brake jobs and wheel bearing failures also you only have 1.5MM of wear on the new rotor before you will need to replace the rotors again.
Imho I think its a very poor design, one that the maker of the best selling truck for however many years should never have put out on the road in the first place.
P.S. What is the current arrangement for the newer trucks? Have they (ford) gone back to tappered bearings? If so it would speak to something that was a bad idea going in.
Before I buy another experiment from ford I'm going to check on what's been changed so that I can figure if it's worth the trouble beforehand.
Bobkyle, many years ago, I learned a trick that keeps me from doing all that maintenance on my boat trailer wheel bearings every year. I too broke down beside the interstate, but no more.
On the first trailer, about 1982, I pulled the hubs, removed the bearings, cleaned the hub real good and drilled a hole for a zerk grease fitting behind the inside bearing, but in front of the seal. I threaded the hole for the zerk fitting ( I used the 90 degree fitting). Every year, I simply pull the dust cover, put a piece of heavy cardboard under the hub where the dust cover sits and pump in new grease from behind with a hand held grease gun. Soon, brand new grease will push out every drop of the old stuff. It's amazing to watch that new stuff push out all the old stuff all the way around the entire hub.
I did this on my current trailer in 1986. After 24 years, I have grown confident that I need to pull and inspect the bearings every 7 years or so. I have replaced just one set of bearings in all that time. Even though I replaced the bearings, they were not pitted, but were becoming discolored in places, so out they came. I tow my trailer to Florida, Va. and several palces in between, so the trailer is used heavily. I fish about three days a week during the fishing season, so the trailer wheels are submerged at least three times every week during fishing season. So, it really works. Still, I wish I could get sealed wheel bearings packed with the premium water proof grease.
BTW, I use the very expensive water proof grease, not the water resistant stuff.
On the first trailer, about 1982, I pulled the hubs, removed the bearings, cleaned the hub real good and drilled a hole for a zerk grease fitting behind the inside bearing, but in front of the seal. I threaded the hole for the zerk fitting ( I used the 90 degree fitting). Every year, I simply pull the dust cover, put a piece of heavy cardboard under the hub where the dust cover sits and pump in new grease from behind with a hand held grease gun. Soon, brand new grease will push out every drop of the old stuff. It's amazing to watch that new stuff push out all the old stuff all the way around the entire hub.
I did this on my current trailer in 1986. After 24 years, I have grown confident that I need to pull and inspect the bearings every 7 years or so. I have replaced just one set of bearings in all that time. Even though I replaced the bearings, they were not pitted, but were becoming discolored in places, so out they came. I tow my trailer to Florida, Va. and several palces in between, so the trailer is used heavily. I fish about three days a week during the fishing season, so the trailer wheels are submerged at least three times every week during fishing season. So, it really works. Still, I wish I could get sealed wheel bearings packed with the premium water proof grease.
BTW, I use the very expensive water proof grease, not the water resistant stuff.
ok i know its a little off topic, but that is one of the coolest things ive read!! thanx for the tip
Sealed bearings on 'tours and 'stiques fail for just those reasons. Re-using the wheel nut, and not torquing to spec.
The rotors are a crap shoot. My father has had the original rotors on his truck for 50-60K with no issues, they look as good as the rotors on my wife's Taurus. The rotors on my truck, however, are headed for their second replacement soon at 70K.
The rotors are a crap shoot. My father has had the original rotors on his truck for 50-60K with no issues, they look as good as the rotors on my wife's Taurus. The rotors on my truck, however, are headed for their second replacement soon at 70K.
my 02.. had great brakes till about 80 k... replaced pads with the cheapest i could find and they last till about 140 and it needs rotors and pads now.....
my 08 rotors have been warped since about 20k... and i drive the ***** off both vehicals and tow about 4 times a week with my 08
The Suburbans have always had wicked brakes... and generally any chevys...(but i love them all
)
This thread is still intertaining
my 08 rotors have been warped since about 20k... and i drive the ***** off both vehicals and tow about 4 times a week with my 08
The Suburbans have always had wicked brakes... and generally any chevys...(but i love them all
) This thread is still intertaining
Code,
Dad's truck is an '07 XLT.
If it needed rotors he would have traded it in by now.
I don't think he's bought tires for a truck for 15 years. By the time they need 'em, the truck is gone. This is the longest he's kept a truck in quite a while.
Dad's truck is an '07 XLT.
If it needed rotors he would have traded it in by now.
I don't think he's bought tires for a truck for 15 years. By the time they need 'em, the truck is gone. This is the longest he's kept a truck in quite a while.







