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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Reusing spindle nut-2WD Rotors

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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Code 7
I figured the nin-com-poop who designed the rotor with non-serviced bearings (originally), the Drive shaft with non- serviced u-joints so that you have to buy a whole new DS for $900. instead of U-joints for $20., the upper control arm with non-serviced ball joint, the 2 piece spark plug that costs $18. apiece and becomes a 3,4,5,6 or multi-piece plug when you try and remove it and a ton of other things that were NOT a "Ford Better Idea" probably designed that nut and since he OBVIOUSLY didn't know what he was doing on the other stuff he designed, maybe he didn't on this either. The guy who graduates LAST in his class still has to eat, and though I don't think Ford has a serious habit of hiring those, maybe this one slipped by. That's my theory anyway!
well said
ford has always been moronic, u cant interchange anypart in an old engine,
and changing one big block to another is a feat i tell ya. why couldnt they be like chevy and have small block and big block with everything the same idk. i think its retarded that a part off the same engine generation wont fit mine. how many molds do u need anyways? ford has like 14 different v8s and everyone has a different bellhousing bolt pattern wtf?
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hiway
I'm not advocating anyone do this, this is your decision. Just relating my experience.
Okay, I replaced the front rotors on my '05 2WD, and reused the spindle nuts. I have almost 500 miles on the job and see no problem. I used several drops of blue locktite on the spindle threads and tightened the nut with a long handle breaker bar as I didn't have access to a 300# torq wrench. ( I'm going to hear about this ! )
I didn't see any difference in this job and any FWD vehicle and axle nuts. The nut tightens down on the inner race so, no preload involved. Please tell me if you don't agree with this. When I installed the cotter pin in the castle, it had play back and forth. I monitored this for several hundred miles and it's still loose. If the spindle nut starts to back off it would take up this play and the castle would be tight.
Again, I'm not advocating anyone do this, just relating my experience.
So far I'm satisfied.
I've included a few pictures.
yep if my ingersoll rand titanium will pull em off thats what im putting them back on with. 300ft# wtf? if my truck had ever given a problem id say it was a pos, but i have not had a prob yet so i guess ill just get used to the way its built
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 04:19 PM
  #23  
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Default Completed job, new rotors and pads

I've got the new Baer decelera rotors and decelera pads installed. I used a combination of the breaker bar and pipe extension to get close to the required torque. The shuddering is gone from the brake performance and I'm glad now that I've got the braking performance without the dramatics. I'm also glad that just because they (ford) threw the higher torque at this job that I went ahead and did it anyway. I now know what condition the old (15,000 miles of use) rotors where in and how badly the pads had worn in that time.
When you have someone else work on your vehicle you don't know what they did, or how it was acomplished. I did note that on the caliper bolts (to the hub sub assembly) they used way over what they should have in the way of torque to tighten those bolts, we just about had to break a wrench backing off those 18 MM bolts. I'll be checking on the rear brakes soon, but rotors, appearance wise they look very good with no ribing like the fronts had.

P.S. the wheel bearings look like they could be serviced via the circle clip on the inner face of the hub. I know that the bearings have a part number, but the wild card is if you can press out the old bearings.

Last edited by dmagyar; Nov 27, 2010 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:52 PM
  #24  
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I cannot believe any sane person would reinstall a spindle nut clearly stamped "Do Not Reuse". If the part fails, you can bet your *** it will fail while you are heavily cornering or traveling about 70 MPH. It WILL NOT fail in your driveway. Remember, it is not the failed part that kills you, it is the sudden stop after the part fails. And, who else will be killed other than you/your family? Anyone who reuses it should have catastrophic insurance coverage because your risk for a whopping lawsuit would be out the roof. Man, I wonder how much the lawyers would get out of you? I'd say at least your bank account, 401K and house, along with any other assets you happen to own. That's what happens when you are piloting a 4,000 pound unguided missle in trafic.

My Haynes Manual states it is imperative that the nut not be reused. It's a shame Ford, Haynes, etc. do not explain why the nut should not be reused. Folks, including myself, like to know these things. However, because the thing holds the wheel on, I'm gonna use a new one. If it fails, that wheel is going to blow off the truck like a bomb exploded. Scares the s..t outta me just thinking about it. It ain't like your engine or transmission blows up. MY GOD MAN, IT'S DIFFERENT!!!

BTW, those wheel bearings are sealed and cannot be regreased, that's why they last so long.

Last edited by jonquil; Nov 27, 2010 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:04 AM
  #25  
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BTW, those wheel bearings are sealed and cannot be regreased, that's why they last so long.
Who said they last so long??? I've read of people who have the front wheel bearing go out in as little as 2000 mi. after replacing the rotor assy. Several that have gone out in 5-20k mi. At least 2 owners on Ford truck forums that have replaced one after another with no explanation as to why it happens. They are a pretty lousy design I'd say. If the guy that designed those things still works for Ford, (other than as a janitor), shame on Ford!

Last edited by Code 7; Nov 29, 2010 at 01:09 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:25 AM
  #26  
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These bearings aren't just used in Ford trucks. Timken makes the bearing assembly, not Ford, but will not sell you the bearing alone due to their manufacturing agreement.

As to why they fail, not torquing to proper specs and reusing one time use parts could be fairly high on the list.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:28 AM
  #27  
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Sealed bearings last, on average, much longer than bearings that can be repacked. I am sure a certain percentage of bearings go bad far too soon for a variety of reasons. How many are faulty from the factory? I don't know, but when I was in the service, I maintained hundreds of shipboard motors and all of them had bearings. It did not take me long to discover that sealed bearings beat the others hand down. Did some fail soon after installing? Sure did. I never did see any part with 100% non failure rate right out of the box. It's the nature of the beast.

I wish they made sealed bearings (waterproof) for my boat trailer.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:37 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jonquil
Sealed bearings last, on average, much longer than bearings that can be repacked. I am sure a certain percentage of bearings go bad far too soon for a variety of reasons. How many are faulty from the factory? I don't know, but when I was in the service, I maintained hundreds of shipboard motors and all of them had bearings. It did not take me long to discover that sealed bearings beat the others hand down. Did some fail soon after installing? Sure did. I never did see any part with 100% non failure rate right out of the box. It's the nature of the beast.

I wish they made sealed bearings (waterproof) for my boat trailer.
haha.... me too!!!! i change my wheel bearings in my boat trailor everyyear.. it seems like if i dont ill go on a big trip and ill have to change them on the interstate.. so i would much rather just change them at home
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:16 AM
  #29  
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Bobkyle, many years ago, I learned a trick that keeps me from doing all that maintenance on my boat trailer wheel bearings every year. I too broke down beside the interstate, but no more.

On the first trailer, about 1982, I pulled the hubs, removed the bearings, cleaned the hub real good and drilled a hole for a zerk grease fitting behind the inside bearing, but in front of the seal. I threaded the hole for the zerk fitting ( I used the 90 degree fitting). Every year, I simply pull the dust cover, put a piece of heavy cardboard under the hub where the dust cover sits and pump in new grease from behind with a hand held grease gun. Soon, brand new grease will push out every drop of the old stuff. It's amazing to watch that new stuff push out all the old stuff all the way around the entire hub.

I did this on my current trailer in 1986. After 24 years, I have grown confident that I need to pull and inspect the bearings every 7 years or so. I have replaced just one set of bearings in all that time. Even though I replaced the bearings, they were not pitted, but were becoming discolored in places, so out they came. I tow my trailer to Florida, Va. and several palces in between, so the trailer is used heavily. I fish about three days a week during the fishing season, so the trailer wheels are submerged at least three times every week during fishing season. So, it really works. Still, I wish I could get sealed wheel bearings packed with the premium water proof grease.

BTW, I use the very expensive water proof grease, not the water resistant stuff.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:56 AM
  #30  
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.. ya thats exactly what im going to do.. i had to repalce my bearings the on my new boat while i was at my camp.. didnt have any bearing grease to pack the bearings no where to get it.. so i found a guy neer out cabin that had some grease and i used it(not water resistant or anything).. packed them the best i could and went with it.. im going to pick up some new hubs bearings and dust caps.. and do it right.. this winter.. my hubs are shot.. they went together fine but im going to buy all new so i dont have to worry about them might keep the old ones to just add bearings and keep at our cabin for spares or something
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