Fusible Link Symptoms?
01-08-2016, 04:59 AM
#2
Moderator (Ret.)
I believe there are three fusible links used in our year trucks, one from the battery to the fuse panel, one to the alternator, and one to the starter.
A multimeter set on ohms to detect an "open" in that fusible link would be one way to check it (would require you disconnect one end), or a second way you be to set the multimeter to DCV, and look for 12 volts at the connections of each side of the link.
A multimeter set on ohms to detect an "open" in that fusible link would be one way to check it (would require you disconnect one end), or a second way you be to set the multimeter to DCV, and look for 12 volts at the connections of each side of the link.
03-25-2023, 09:57 AM
#3
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
I disagree with the article about links . It is a high current overload fuse but is connected by bolts or other high current methods . It is not plugged in ,it is not resettable, Its like a main fuse near heavy duty sources, alternator-battery ,these main sources are high current capable in the 100's of amps . Capable of starting fires in engine compartment . On newer cars they can be located on a plastic assembly off positive battery terminal so yes they can be subject to corrosion .
They can be expensive , do not jumper them until you find the overcurrent path or you run the risk of damage or fire . All the main leads need to be inspected for rub points . If you are not trained maybe you should get help .
A good technician has tricks to find the trouble without blowing a new one or setting your car on fire . They will have a plan to quickly disconnect battery for test . Such as using a jump cable off battery terminal to battery lead in series to quickly pull it off . They will use an in series ammeter to spot trouble before it goes up in smoke . Most guys do not know how to use an ammeter or clamp on ammeter. They also know how to improvise a temporary high current fuse for test.
A common problem is a shorted output from alternator which can easily put out 120amps or more, so that can be found with an ohmmeter if shorted and by moving wires during test . Some vehicles have a link in wire on output of alternator in wiring harness .
I find that most people either can think out an electrical problem or can never do it . Its just a talent you have or not . Its not a fault ,we need people with different talents to make the world work . I can never be an artist for example . My wife is an artist and has her own shop . I can fix stuff but I can't create art .
They can be expensive , do not jumper them until you find the overcurrent path or you run the risk of damage or fire . All the main leads need to be inspected for rub points . If you are not trained maybe you should get help .
A good technician has tricks to find the trouble without blowing a new one or setting your car on fire . They will have a plan to quickly disconnect battery for test . Such as using a jump cable off battery terminal to battery lead in series to quickly pull it off . They will use an in series ammeter to spot trouble before it goes up in smoke . Most guys do not know how to use an ammeter or clamp on ammeter. They also know how to improvise a temporary high current fuse for test.
A common problem is a shorted output from alternator which can easily put out 120amps or more, so that can be found with an ohmmeter if shorted and by moving wires during test . Some vehicles have a link in wire on output of alternator in wiring harness .
I find that most people either can think out an electrical problem or can never do it . Its just a talent you have or not . Its not a fault ,we need people with different talents to make the world work . I can never be an artist for example . My wife is an artist and has her own shop . I can fix stuff but I can't create art .
