Proper use of valve spring tool
#11
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Don't fool with that valve tool just pull the cams
Put the engine at the timing point . mark cam shaft positions so you can put it back close to the same position . Then remove chains , then pull the cams . use the factory sequence to loosen bolts on cams a little at a time basically from the center out . All cam parts must go back exactly how they came out ,mark them . With cams out no valves are down .
This gives you good access for cleaning and replacing all lash's and followers with no danger of bending valves . No buying clumsy tool .With crank at the timing point you can reinstall cams . Bolts are torqued down in sequence at 8 foot pounds a little at a time watching followers closely .
Clean lash wells and cam journal oil feed while cams out . .
This gives you good access for cleaning and replacing all lash's and followers with no danger of bending valves . No buying clumsy tool .With crank at the timing point you can reinstall cams . Bolts are torqued down in sequence at 8 foot pounds a little at a time watching followers closely .
Clean lash wells and cam journal oil feed while cams out . .
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nwedgar (11-18-2017)
#12
Renaissance Honky
If you use that tool, which puts compressed air into the cylinder to hold the valves closed, using the valve spring compressor tool will push the spring retainer down and let you take the keepers out. That's not what he's trying to do. the valves need to open to get out of the way of the lash adjusters so they can be removed. Once the valve is open enough to let air flow out, that Lisle compressed-air valve holder device has been defeated and the valves can drop free.
If he was trying to change the valve springs and/or seals, then you're on to something with that device. But, that's not what's happening here.
Last edited by Eric Kleven; 11-16-2017 at 02:37 PM.
#13
Not sure if you already finished the job or not. If you are trying to remove the followers to release pressure on the cam for removal. You want to compress the valves spring with the tool. If the spring starts moving and the valve does not just push it down with your finger or whatever you can reach it with. Make sure the valve goes down with the spring. Then when you remove the follower and release the spring the keepers will hold the valve in place.
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nwedgar (11-19-2017)
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice. I'm to the part of putting everything back together,which means I've used the spring tool a few times to remove some of the rollers from 1, 4, 5, and 8 I believe, but I'll be using it a lot more to put all the rest of them back in. I was nervous has heck but got those few out without any issues. I dread doing this 24 times.
On the plus side of things, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the engine was running at 213K miles since it was clear the prior owner went a little too long between oil changes, way too much gunk on the valve covers and front cover.
On the plus side of things, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the engine was running at 213K miles since it was clear the prior owner went a little too long between oil changes, way too much gunk on the valve covers and front cover.
#15
I’ve had to change valve seals before. You have to do the procedure 4 times on each valve.
I just picked up a 05 f150 with 154000 miles. I wasn’t too worried about the mileage. But the trans just went out. Now I’m worried about the engine. Regular maintenance is very important.
I just picked up a 05 f150 with 154000 miles. I wasn’t too worried about the mileage. But the trans just went out. Now I’m worried about the engine. Regular maintenance is very important.