When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I decided to give it a shot and do the spark plugs everything going ok then bam spark plug snapped. Not the best way possible either way the thread part of the spark plug broke off in there. I got the tip out and the porcelain. I got the porcelain out by cranking the engine over and poof there it went and the tip I got the lisle extractor tool. All I need to do is get the thread part out. I was trying to use an extractor but it was almost to the point of snapping the extractor. So I can't do that , next plan is to drill and tap. Do I need to use the inserts. All I'm trying to do is basically clean the threads of the old spark plug that is left in it and it all go well. What size tap and drill bit do I need to use?
Last edited by darrell649; 03-19-2022 at 11:00 PM.
16mm x 1.5 pitch I believe.
sounds like a sound plan.
19/32 about the largest fractional size that should to through without touching the base metal assuming you are centered. Should be fairly easy to stay centered since you are just going down the center... You might be able to peel the threads out at that point.
Another option is to just drill down the center once just barely bigger than the current ID and maybe the heat produced will break it loose enough for the extractor to work?
16mm x 1.5 pitch I believe.
sounds like a sound plan.
19/32 about the largest fractional size that should to through without touching the base metal assuming you are centered. Should be fairly easy to stay centered since you are just going down the center... You might be able to peel the threads out at that point.
Another option is to just drill down the center once just barely bigger than the current ID and maybe the heat produced will break it loose enough for the extractor to work?
Wow that's actually a great idea. Thank you. Also is there a thread chaser for that size I seem to not be able to find one.
Last edited by darrell649; 03-19-2022 at 03:51 PM.
Looks like you've got a bit of a mismatch there. 4 older style and 4 newer ones. It actually looks like it was one of the newer ones that broke on you which is odd. Edit: no maybe those are original sp509s that one of them broke apart. Looks like it has the skinny 1 piece ground electrode of the sp509. The sp546 is a skinny welded on electrode. The sp515 had the beefy q piece ground electrode.
Fwiw my truck I'm running the autolite ht15 they look just like a sp515 and run great.
either way I wish you luck with the removal. Hopefully it's not number 4 or 8 you're working on.
Last edited by needsmoarturbo; 03-19-2022 at 04:11 PM.
Looks like you've got a bit of a mismatch there. 4 older style and 4 newer ones. It actually looks like it was one of the newer ones that broke on you which is odd. Edit: no maybe those are original sp509s that one of them broke apart. Looks like it has the skinny 1 piece ground electrode of the sp509. The sp546 is a skinny welded on electrode. The sp515 had the beefy q piece ground electrode.
Fwiw my truck I'm running the autolite ht15 they look just like a sp515 and run great.
either way I wish you luck with the removal. Hopefully it's not number 4 or 8 you're working on.
Yeah thats a tough nut at least its no 2 . One of the reasons I still use a tiny amount of nickel anti seize on threads and barrel. Well if it was me I would get no 2 on top dead center on compression stroke all valves closed ,I would pour carb cleaner in there to fill it up . Carb cleaner will melt that carbon if it can get it wet , let it sit over night. Then turn it over to get it out of there if it hasn't evaporated . Then put it back to same point and use jb blaster the same way . Push it out of there after all night , put piston in bottom before you try easy out . Get your valves closed so you don't nick one of them .
If its cross threaded its going to be tough . Newer plugs are torqued in 25 to 28 foot pounds but not left in over 60k miles .
Yeah thats a tough nut at least its no 2 . One of the reasons I still use a tiny amount of nickel anti seize on threads and barrel. Well if it was me I would get no 2 on top dead center on compression stroke all valves closed ,I would pour carb cleaner in there to fill it up . Carb cleaner will melt that carbon if it can get it wet , let it sit over night. Then turn it over to get it out of there if it hasn't evaporated . Then put it back to same point and use jb blaster the same way . Push it out of there after all night , put piston in bottom before you try easy out . Get your valves closed so you don't nick one of them .
If its cross threaded its going to be tough . Newer plugs are torqued in 25 to 28 foot pounds but not left in over 60k miles .
I’ll try that, I was told that they were changed before I got the truck so I prob put 10k or so on them. Also he said they a decent amount of anti seize on them.
Looks like you've got a bit of a mismatch there. 4 older style and 4 newer ones. It actually looks like it was one of the newer ones that broke on you which is odd. Edit: no maybe those are original sp509s that one of them broke apart. Looks like it has the skinny 1 piece ground electrode of the sp509. The sp546 is a skinny welded on electrode. The sp515 had the beefy q piece ground electrode.
Fwiw my truck I'm running the autolite ht15 they look just like a sp515 and run great.
either way I wish you luck with the removal. Hopefully it's not number 4 or 8 you're working on.
SP507 is the original plug.. 509 is for the redesigned heads built after 10/09/07.
03-19-2022, 12:07 PM
2004 New body style 3v spark plugs
