pek771

I suppose having a power steering leak is better than (possibly) an icepick in my eye, but not by much. I am starting this new thread, so that I don't hog up the original thread, which is probably the best resource on power steering line replacement on the internet. That thread is https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-doe...g-gear-223972/

The bottom line into the rack was rusted out, and was leaking out half a quart of Mercon in 30 miles. The line basically disintegrated from corrosion. I pulled off the fan shroud and air inlet stuff to have a bit more room. I tried to get the fan off, but the belt keeps slipping, so I can't get it off. I was able to unbolt the fan from the pulley and clutch mechanism to get a bit more room to work.

I procured two new lines. I stupidly thought this would be easy.

I got the bottom line out, because the end which goes into the rack itself was fairly intact. The top line (not sure which is which) was not rusted as bad, but it disintegrated when I tried to get it out of the rack, and ended up being sheared off almost flush at the rack. (I'll post some photos of this later, as soon as I figure out how).

Full disclosure statement: I was a machinist in the USAF back in the day, and we specialized in getting broken fasteners and other stuff out. If we couldn't fix something, then the aircraft had to get sent to the depot, so we were the last resort, so to speak. So, I have done stuff like this before. I must be getting soft.

I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit won't go in perpendicular to the hole, because the front member is in the way. I tried to get a bellhanger length drill bit, but that wouldn't work either...no straight shot into the hole. I tried some easy outs, both the spiral and square kind, neither of which worked. I did not honk on them too hard, because the last thing I want to do is break off an easy out in the rack.

So, now we are down to Option C, which is remove the rack. This brings it's own set of problems, such as getting the steering mechanism loose from the rack. It is soaking in AeroKroil and PB Blaster for now.

pek771

techrep

iTrader: (1)

What a corroded mess.. good luck.

pek771

Well, the top section of the ring on the line was really corroded and stuck. I had to practically mutilate the rack to get that line out. The collar on the line where the retainer plate goes on was like dust after I drilled through it. Completely disintegrated. I suppose I could get the rack to work again with some judicious machine work, but I can get a new rack with tie rod ends for $250, so why bother? Rack removal was pretty easy, once I got the steering column shafts to come loose. Sure helps to have an impact wrench.

Some random photos of what the rack looks like, attached. I will take the opportunity to try and clean up the engine compartment a bit before the new rack shows up. I'm probably going to pull the rack apart, just to see what it looks like on the inside.

Noteworthy is the fact that I completely went through, maintenance wise, the brakes, running gear, hubs, transmission, transfer case, etc., after Hurricane Sandy went through town a few years ago. I had driven through some high water, albeit fresh water. I guess the truck does not care for the road salt very much. But, all things considered, it is a good truck, and has been very reliable.

pek771

I got the new rack installed. When I got all the fluids back in the truck, it leaked again. I determined that the steering hose flange, which is supposed to fit in the machined shoulder in the rack is deeper than the flange is thick, such that the pressure line is not held in securely enough to prevent any leakage. The line is 14mm diameter, and the ID of the shoulder is 17mm. I found an O-Ring in my parts collection with those dimensions (maybe it was 16 mm OD), but it fit well in the shoulder area, and took up the slack. The leak stopped as if by magic!

I also treated the rust areas with Ospho, which is pretty neat and effective. It turns the rust (iron oxide) into iron phosphate. I treated it as directed and painted it black. I have to touch it up yet, but since I am not doing the truck show circuit this year, it is not a big priority.

Everything is essentially back together, new rack, lines, tie rod ends. What a massive PITA for one leaking line.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Nice work..

Phillips0417

Unfortunately, I am doing this too. Although we now live in Texas, my truck spent the first 5-6 years of its life in the elements and salty roadways of Maryland. I bought my truck brand new in February of 2006 with 19 miles. It now has 175k miles and the only thing I've ever had to replace are spark plugs and a fuel pump.

I've known they were leaking but I wanted to wait to replace them. I just had hand surgery in mid September (severed tendons in my L thumb at work) and I'm finally getting a little bit of mobility and decided enough is enough and I'm going to get this done because I'm tired of it leaving drips everywhere. I'm usually very proactive and take care of things when they need attention, but the lack of movement in my thumb made me wait a few months.

I still played hell getting it all apart with most of the work being done from the engine bay. I expected the pump to be a real pain from the look of the bolts but it actually wasn't that bad. I didn't know exactly which line was leaking until I got into it and the low pressure return line was the culprit for me. The upper high pressure line came out with ease, the lower however broke off about an inch from the rack. So, after working on it most of the afternoon yesterday, I called it quits about 8pm last night. I started doing some research on here and some people said to tap it from above and from the driver side wheel well, which I did. And, apparently I was a little over zealous with the hammer. I gave it a couple good wacks with the hammer from above and the side and it pulled right out. However, it looks like I chipped off the recessed lip area that the piece fits into. I don't think this will be a huge issue since it has an ID o-ring and sealing surface. But I wanted to gauge y'alls thoughts too. I'm waiting on parts that will arrive mid-late week. I really don't want to replace the rack, but if I need to I will. Maybe I'll reassemble it and see if it holds. Again, I think it will but wanted to check if anyone has any experience with this happening.

Before anyone calls me a cheap ***, I'm not. I purchased all OEM Motorcraft parts because I didn't want to take a chance and have something I can get off the shelf at Autozone or O'reilly's leak. I will replace the rack if I need to. I may try to source one locally. A friend has an 05 Expedition that he's parting out, maybe the rack is the same?

https://imgur.com/r6Jenoc
https://imgur.com/n9EXVGR
https://imgur.com/rp8PeDM

Can't figure out how to embed pictures, so follow the links to see.

I will also be treating everything with Ospho.

Cliffs: Power steering lines severely corroded almost in two, removed lines, broke recessed port on rack.

pek771

I hope you get lucky and are able to insert the new line, and have it hold pressure and not leak. Else, you will be changing the rack like I did. I am wondering if you can simply test the line connection to the rack with compressed air or something prior to re-assembling everything? That would make life a bit easier. BTW, I had my right elbow and shoulder surgically rebuilt two years ago, so I sort of know how you feel. Also, I think the Expedition and F-150 racks re different, but I am not 100% sure of that.

Phillips0417

Thanks, Pek. That's a good idea to pressurize it and leak check it. I may go ahead and pull the rack off the truck to do this so I can clean everything up and have more visibility to see if it actually seals. If not, I'll just buy a new rack. I'm really considering just buying a new one anyway because I noticed a bunch of goop and crap in the reservoir filter. Pump is still in good shape, no shaft movement and cleaned up fairly well. At this point, it's a couple bolts and tie rods and the rack will be out.

Phillips0417

Well this is helpful.