godwima

I need some advise to troubleshoot/repair my 2004 f150 5.4 3V with 235,000 miles. I'm getting a P0021 code and the engine runs very rough and lacks power after ~5 minutes after start up. I performed a replacement of the timing chains, oil pump, guides, VCT solenoids and phasers ~35,000 miles ago and it has ran fine until 2 weeks ago. I replaced the VCT solenoids last week and still geting the P0021 and running rough. should I swap the VCT sensors from left to right? any advise would be welcome

redfishtd

P0021 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position A - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
Bank 2 drivers side .
Did you use other than OEM phasors , you save some money but these phasors work very hard not a good go . Usually the sensor not bad everybody wants to shoot the messenger .
How much cleaning did you do , did you clean out vct bodies ? How's the valve train on drivers side . lash adjuster and rollers are recommended to be changed on timing job . One guy had so much resistance in the train that the cam sheared into three pieces .
You could try to cheese wedge change that phasor .
Me I would pull timing cover , pull cams clean it up, replace all rollers and lash's, unless heads damaged . Use old style ratcheting tensioners .Pull valve covers first, check it out . If I was pulling it down, do a motor flush immediately before .
After its done use some marvel m oil . Good luck ,let us know .

Eric Kleven

You didn't mention if you'd replaced the tensioners, did you replace them or re-use your originals?

godwima

I replaced the tensioners with the other components @ 200,000 miles. The phasers were after market (Dorman). The rollers and lash adjusters looked good and the interior was varnished but no sludge. I did drop the oil pan and clean the pan and oil pick up screen thoroughly since the chain guides were chewed up. I did clean/inspect the VCT bodies.

redfishtd

You mention inspecting lash's . Did you pull them ,pump them ,prime them again ,clean out wells . Mine were bad at 130k . Roller was shot and thrown out in clear . Don't have much faith in either at 200k . They can damage the whole head . Plus the resistance to the phasor system . Need to pull cams in order to see condition of bearings and lube channels .
Some guys are using cnc phasors from freedom racing but not much feedback time .
Of course the next question is what is the target life of this engine vs repairing it . I am going to be happy if 300k , then it will be reman time if problems . Or if I can find a good machine shop I may do my own .

http://www.freedomracing.com/am-3r2z...ft-phaser.html

Eric Kleven

Did you use the plastic stock-replacement tensioners, or the metal 2v tensioners?

Is this the horrible ratcheting/diesel bucking/knocking/spitting thing that clears up if you rev the engine to 1,500rpm?
What weight of motor oil are you running?

do you get the dry-start 2-second chain slap?

godwima

Thank you for the feedback. The engine runs ok during idle and is relatively quiet for a 5.4. I believe the tensioners were metal vs plastic. No bucking just lack of power after about five minutes of running and the DTC P0021. I want to get at least 300,000 out of the engine. I did not remove the rollers simply pushed on each to inspect for bleed down and visual inspection of the rollers .

redfishtd

Best bet . Hate to see you go thru so many other parts . You could do an oil pressure test first . But bank 2 is nearest to oil pressure source and bank one seems okay . You can get a chain wedge around 12-14 bucks anymore so you can slip new phasor/bolt in there .
Forum full of failed dormans after short while .If it were me I would try the freedom racing ones if oem too exp . They seem very cocky about them .

godwima

Thank you redfishtd. I'm currently dealing with some elder care issues for my mother so the F150 is parked. My plan is to pull the valve covers as soon as possible and check out the phasers. I'll share the results.

redfishtd

Yes that's more important ,people not stuff .