Passenger Power window
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Passenger Power window
Hello all, (2004 Supercab 5.4 XLT), received my window regulator and motor from Rock auto ($110) to install on my passenger side door which was missing all the parts. (Window was held up with heavy duty straps which I posted photos of).
Was missing one bolt in center so I found one in the misc. pile in the shed with correct threads so that was good.
The assembly went in a little tough but I eased it in, lined it up and bolted it to the door skin and then let the window down easy after I cut off the straps someone had installed holding it (it was actually a nice job with 5 heavy duty ones).
Connected the switch assembly after plugging the motor and nothing. Check the other windows, they all work because the ignition is on and the child lock is not pressed down.
I go through the manual sheets and check power. There's power. Then I start to move the switch around while playing with it and the window goes down sporadically but never up. I jump it and bring it up and then again, playing with the switch (moving the trim panel up and down) makes it work occasionally down).
I switch the switch with the rear half door and it works, bringing the window up and down so I assume switch is good. Good the connecttor be bad? When I wiggle the connector I get intermmittant power also.
If so, does anyone have a source or have you done it before? I read about breaks in the wires but I unwrapped everything close to the body and the wires seem great. When you see bad wires are they readily visible or are they broken inside?
Thanks!
Was missing one bolt in center so I found one in the misc. pile in the shed with correct threads so that was good.
The assembly went in a little tough but I eased it in, lined it up and bolted it to the door skin and then let the window down easy after I cut off the straps someone had installed holding it (it was actually a nice job with 5 heavy duty ones).
Connected the switch assembly after plugging the motor and nothing. Check the other windows, they all work because the ignition is on and the child lock is not pressed down.
I go through the manual sheets and check power. There's power. Then I start to move the switch around while playing with it and the window goes down sporadically but never up. I jump it and bring it up and then again, playing with the switch (moving the trim panel up and down) makes it work occasionally down).
I switch the switch with the rear half door and it works, bringing the window up and down so I assume switch is good. Good the connecttor be bad? When I wiggle the connector I get intermmittant power also.
If so, does anyone have a source or have you done it before? I read about breaks in the wires but I unwrapped everything close to the body and the wires seem great. When you see bad wires are they readily visible or are they broken inside?
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Plugs do go bad, I just changed one out on a neighbors car. The power was intermittent as well. Try to probe through the wire before the connector and see if it is constant or intermittent. Good luck
Tom
Tom
#3
Senior Member
My passenger side window will roll down from the passenger side, but not up. Both up and down work from the drivers side control. I haven't had the energy to figure it out.
#4
Mark
iTrader: (1)
#5
Senior Member
#6
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Telling him you don't have the energy to figure it out helps him how ?
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Summary of troubleshooting
It's fine...I've read a lot people here and other forums have problems with these power window issues. After a few hours over a period of a few days, this is what I've learned:
Do what you can before you pull the panel off the door:
1) swap out the switch with the one in the back that works.(if it fits),
This eliminates the switch.
2) Check the boot between the door and cab for broken wires. I understand this is the majority of the cases. You have to splice them.
3) Take off the door panel and/or check power in the plug, then check the grounds in the plug. However, leave open the possibility that the plug is bad also.
4) Jump the motor. This tells you the motor is good (saves you $110) and makes you feel better. (A little)
5) At this point, you have most/all of the causes and just need to eliminate them. The only other thing is watch the Youtube video to clean
your switch contacts.
Make sure the normal stuff is taken care of when you check for power like
the key is on, and the child lock is not on lock....
I'm two thirds done checking these things over a period of three days off and on..
Hope this helps!
Do what you can before you pull the panel off the door:
1) swap out the switch with the one in the back that works.(if it fits),
This eliminates the switch.
2) Check the boot between the door and cab for broken wires. I understand this is the majority of the cases. You have to splice them.
3) Take off the door panel and/or check power in the plug, then check the grounds in the plug. However, leave open the possibility that the plug is bad also.
4) Jump the motor. This tells you the motor is good (saves you $110) and makes you feel better. (A little)
5) At this point, you have most/all of the causes and just need to eliminate them. The only other thing is watch the Youtube video to clean
your switch contacts.
Make sure the normal stuff is taken care of when you check for power like
the key is on, and the child lock is not on lock....
I'm two thirds done checking these things over a period of three days off and on..
Hope this helps!
#9
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Good tip's...
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Update in 95 degree heat
OK update: I pulled the boot off the wiring harness on the driver's door that goes to the cab and the WHI/YEL wire was broken (awesome to find one actually!). Black carbon on the ends from intermittent contact. Jumped it and guess what, the the passenger door switch makes the window go up and down!. This I believe is the ground wire (one of them). It was good to see the window go up and down after finding the motor missing and the window zip-tied up. What's strange is that the tie-up job was done properly (panel on nice, plastic made sure to seal openings from whoever removed the motor assembly. I can only figure that they tried a few things, (including a new motor assembly, couldn't make it work, and returned the assembly. They then zip tied the window and put everything together. Funny when the guy I bought it from (small time used dealer), said ' oh yeah the passenger window doesn't work' like he didn't know why. Could've saved me about 3 hours diagnosing by telling me there's no motor assembly in there I guess. Anyway, I wish I had checked the boots in the beginning also.
So continues the effort, a couple of hours at a time...next effort is to find what I believe may be another ground wire break because the passenger window will go down from the driver's switch but not up.
(also, today a new development...I charged the battery because it had died with the key on for several hours yesterday and today working on the truck. I then went for a short drive. I opened the driver's door to show my son where I need him to solder the jumper and the dome light clicked off after about 5 seconds. Wonder if this is another wire break causing intermittent contact.
Thanks!
So continues the effort, a couple of hours at a time...next effort is to find what I believe may be another ground wire break because the passenger window will go down from the driver's switch but not up.
(also, today a new development...I charged the battery because it had died with the key on for several hours yesterday and today working on the truck. I then went for a short drive. I opened the driver's door to show my son where I need him to solder the jumper and the dome light clicked off after about 5 seconds. Wonder if this is another wire break causing intermittent contact.
Thanks!
Last edited by HarryK; 07-23-2016 at 09:44 PM. Reason: spelling