himsweet66six

are you referring to the indicator lever? the one I posted is ebay but oem ford.

acdiecast

Yes, that is what I am referring you to. I didn't realize it was from eBay but I was trying to promote the OEM part, like you found. I used eBay as an example of where cheap knockoffs are sometimes sold but I can see in this case it won't be needed.

As I said before, make sure you have exhausted all of your avenues except for having the dealership tear up your truck looking for this, before you start replacing (costly) parts. The indicator lever may be the culprit, but it is anyone's guess at this point. Based on the symptoms you have described, I can attribute at least SOME of the faults back to this switch.

You said you had the main headlight switch replaced, right? And a new aftermarket remote start/security system installed and the old one removed?

homer

lol actually that's a good point, if it's cheap and it fixes it, it's definitely a lot cheaper than going to the stealership hahahaha. I did ramble on a lot that night, this is definitely a very trivial electrical issue I've never seen before either hahaha

homer

Check those fuses anyways however my HID's are setup the same, they run off of one headlight plug. The reason this is, it should have a relay connecting directly to the battery. This is actually a good thing so you're not pulling power with those ballasts off of your headlamp circuit. I believe many of the kits come with the harness that just incorporates that anyways to make it easy. Off-topic but I actually put a relay in to cut the HID's out during starting because it's hard on them.


With the jumpers, yeah, I know it sounds silly... ONLY use the negative (black) jumper, don't hook up the positive. Jump the negative from the battery to the frame somewhere. It's seriously a long-shot but you never know. I'd think you'd run into other issues if the ground was that poor but takes a few mins to try haha.


I'm really wondering if someone has spliced into your wiring somewhere else... it could be at the drivers kick panel and even that panel that runs along your drivers side. Was it an alarm they added? Depending how they did it, they may have had to add diodes for the door pins and they could have done it in the floor rails (where I did it). I also had an issue with water pooling in there. I found out because it shorted my diode and set my alarm off. Pulled that floor panel off and was shocked! The panel is easy to remove (the one on the floor that runs along the doors).

himsweet66six

ok thanks for all the help guys, I am really trying to knock out all these littles things off the list before I take it tot he dealer. it just sucks I havnt had time to chck **** out for myself. I will tomorrow though, so I will check some things out before I go to the dealer.

so are you saying I should try and new indicator switch or not?

also the car has a pioneer avic d1. now I it has the pioneer backup camera install with itand lately the camera has been working and not working. that's something else that is been acting up the last few days.

The one place just took the old viper alarm, remote start off the truck. I didn't want to hook anything else up after market until I get this light issue fixed for the sake of me going to the dealership and they try blaming it on that ****. but in the future I plan on getting another one install after this light thing is fixed.

so tomorrow: ground with jumper cables, visual inspection of wires behind headlight switch, check headlight fuses, check kick panel on driver side. anything else?

homer

Interesting on the backup camera not working. I've added one too. I wonder where they tied it in. Originally I tied my reverse pickup in through the reverse lights. I've now switched mine to the floor panel reverse wire so I can turn the reverse camera on anytime. I have a pioneer AVH-X8500BHS so I know what you mean. I'm going to have a look at the rear connector on mine after. Will let you know another place possibly to check.

himsweet66six

finally! got it fixed. long story short. I ended up finding an oem wire had been spliced then reconnected, but it was corroded and was not making a solid connection which was the reason the lights where off. It was a grey wire located underneath the side foot panel. very weird y someone would cut there.

acdiecast

If you are talking about the drivers side of the truck, front seat, under the door jamb cover, I noticed this too. I was surprised one day when I took them off to clean them that there was so many wires in that channel, and that there were half a dozen or so Y-splices that appeared to be a factory job. Glad you got it figured out! I'm going to look into a way to protect this wiring from corrosion better.

himsweet66six

yea it was actually kinda wet in that spot. I don't know if its from the automatic car wash and it sprays under there some how or because snow fell in when I opened the door. but I couldn't believe it looked like someone had hacked the harness in that spot. very very strange

Tim Doc Hansen

Alright, this is what I think I know. You've got a hazard light relay and a parking lamp relay. Word I get is they are located below the radio and seems to me pulling the bezel off from the upper face and taking out the climate control center is the easiest access.
Keep in mind this info is for a 2002 F250 so you may have to keep digging, but that's the first place I'm looking as I have relatively the same problem, but my parking lights and dash lights just flat don't work.
Now, if the two relays are indeed placed together in this configuration and you find them, hit the hazard lights to eliminate their relay as the offending unit. Hit the parking lamps and if the relay on the other side does Not click momentarily, then you've probably found your solution. I know I'm headed for my tools as we speak....