acdiecast

Did you check the auto headlight sensor on the dash? And did you check the body grounds that are easy to get at?

homer

Did he check the joint for the park light wire where it was joined for the old remote start? The flickering sounds like a wire is loose somewhere and you mentioned you smelled burning. It should be easy to find.


I've re-read your posts and your second post almost is sounding like a weak ground somewhere.. just by all of the symptoms.

himsweet66six

he said everything looked fine. honestly tomorrow if I get a chance I am going to investigate more. I thought this would take care of it but I guess not. he suggested new headlight switch. but I know that's not it. only problem is im in Chicago and tomorrow is suppose to get down to minus temperatures and I have no garage to work in...... so hopefully I can do it tomorrow.

do u know what color wire I should be looking for ?

acdiecast

Honestly, I'm starting to think this is a faulty multi-function (blinker) switch.

himsweet66six

like the turn signal switch? but y the burning smell under the dash?

acdiecast

Well, the turn signal switch could be the main problem, causing the scorched smell under the dash. It may have also been the faulty switch that made the alarm system go bad, or something of that sort. Anyway, that is my thinking, and it might be worth installing a new blinker switch before you tear everything else up, since the OEM one only has a limited lifespan anyway (if it isn't faulty.)

himsweet66six

awesome good to know. ill def look into it. if I take my turn signal out now then would I be able to test and see if it works properly without it?

also you are referring to this right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-TURN-SIGNAL-WIPER-WASHER-SWITCH-DIRECTION-INDICATOR-6L3Z-13K359-AA-/160850955977?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CModel%3AF-150&hash=item257376cec9&vxp=mtr

homer

Does your turn indicator work when the lights are off though? Not sure if I'm completely sold on that although anything is possible. I would more likely think the flasher relay than the actual turn signal switch... However, how would it cross both circuits? I suppose it's possible if the turn indicator is shorting both ways locking the relay and both sides... but it still doesn't make sense for only the front park lights to work depending on headlamp position, then all to work depending on headlamp position. Especially to cut out fog lights... that really doesn't make sense. ALTHOUGH.... it COULD be possible due to the fact that high beams are tied into that switch as well. High beam by default kicks the fog lights out but I'd imagine his high beams would be on too if that was shorting.

Do you have a multimeter? It'd be worth probing your headlamp switch in the different positions, it's relatively easy. It's a good start... especially if you don't show two HOTs. There's two hots showing going to the headlamp switch (DB-OG, TN-WH). I haven't tested my switch to determine which hot's are used... it could be that one is dead (I'm not entirely sure, I'd have to test on mine).

I have this pin layout to the headlamp switch:

1 - RD-YE - Hot with Headlamps On or Autolamps ON
2 - VT-OG - Hot with autolamps on
3 - BK - Ground
4 - WH-RD - Hot in park or head
5 - BR - Hot in park or head
6 - DB-OG - Voltage supplied - Fuse F40
7 - LG-BK - High beam relay output
8 - LB-RD - instrument illumination
9 - WH-BK - Fog Lamp relay control
10 - TN-WH - voltage supplied - Fuse F6

You've checked fuses F23 (right HL) & F25 (left HL) (although technically you'd have no left or right headlamp), F6 (Headlamp switch) I see you checked already? Also check F40 (DRL & Headlamp switch).

I'm not saying it's not the turn indicator switch but you could be buying parts for process of elimination for a while. Based on the symptoms (I re-read your earlier posts), I'm not at all convinced it's related to the remote starter now. You would have no parking lights at all... I also have trouble believing it's an issue at the headlamp switch because it powers the park wire... so why the split from front park lights and rear park lights... There is a junction somewhere (I'm honestly not sure where it is) for a brown wire that splits front park lamps into rear park lamps and license lamps but again, if it was corrosion you'd have one left rear, or one right rear... I would think. I did work on a Dodge Ram dually though that didn't have any side markers due to corrosion.

If the lights are flickering though... that tells me there's more likely a loose/broken wire somewhere rather than a fuse. The burning smell could be a loose wire heating up due to resistance, or it could be poor contact in the turn signal switch like acdiecast mentioned. If you can use a multimeter and pinpoint if the switch is getting power, it'd be a start. Believe it or not, because it's not intermittent entirely and the park lights don't currently work in the on position, it'll make it easier to trace (within reason).


I'm really thinking out loud here (or typing). Try putting a jumper cable from the ground post to the frame somewhere. I doubt it's going to help but you never know. The ground might be good from the battery to the engine block (thus you can still start, somewhat run, etc). If the body ground was bad I'd think you'd have drivability issues too but it's hard to say.

acdiecast

Yes, that is the part I am talking about. Like I said, I am not 100% on that being the culprit but at this point it is still a potential fault. It is best to exhaust everything short of taking it to the dealership to have them tear the truck down before replacing it. Remember, if you do decide to replace it, try to get a quality OEM Ford part instead of a cheap eBay part if you can help it.

himsweet66six

ok lol well honestly I am a noob noob when it comes to checking voltage with a multimeter. I have honestly no idea how to really work it. but I will give it a shot.

now that I am thinking about it the HID harness is only hooked up to one head light plug so maybe the other one that is not being used anymore could be out? I didn't check the headlight fuses hence my headlights were working. but ill def check tomorrow.

also I do have my indicators at all times and my highbeams are working.

and so your saying take jumper cables, and hook the ground wire to the ground terminal on the battery and then take the other ground end and ground it to the frame of the truck? then check to see if everything works?

thanks for the help guys.