Parking Lights do not work?
01-13-2014, 08:25 AM
#11
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I would try checking the ground(s) like another user suggested, as well as the battery connections. What exactly do you mean by the lights were pulsating? That would indicate an issue with the alternator rectifier bridge (I believe that is the component I am thinking of).
This is a long shot, but you might try it to cross it off as a possibility. The photo cell located either on the top of the dash or in the rear view mirror that actuates the auto headlights may be able to be disconnected. I am not 100%, but I think it may be the black dome on the top of the drivers side dash that has a red LED that flashes with the ignition off. Anyone else know if this might be the photo cell?
Like I said, a long shot, but it might be something.
This is a long shot, but you might try it to cross it off as a possibility. The photo cell located either on the top of the dash or in the rear view mirror that actuates the auto headlights may be able to be disconnected. I am not 100%, but I think it may be the black dome on the top of the drivers side dash that has a red LED that flashes with the ignition off. Anyone else know if this might be the photo cell?
Like I said, a long shot, but it might be something.
yea ill try that. im just having a hard time reading that diagram and seeing where the rear parking lights are grounded.
also another thing I don't think I posted was that I have hid headlights and fog lights.... I had them for about two months before this problem started to happen.
01-13-2014, 11:42 AM
#12
I had this similar problem about two months ago. fuse was blown. put a new one in . turned on the headlights and it would pop instantly. same issue. no illumination on cluster. tail lights out. ended up take it to a mechanic friend of mine cuz i hate electrical problems. he said he found a short under the truck that was causing it to blow. i guess something was grounding out. try looking for something underneath sorry i cant be more disciptive as to were
Last edited by REGALADER1; 01-13-2014 at 11:55 AM. Reason: poor grammar
01-13-2014, 07:29 PM
#13
"Why Leave it Stock?"
yea ill try that. im just having a hard time reading that diagram and seeing where the rear parking lights are grounded. also another thing I don't think I posted was that I have hid headlights and fog lights.... I had them for about two months before this problem started to happen.
01-14-2014, 12:12 AM
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I had this similar problem about two months ago. fuse was blown. put a new one in . turned on the headlights and it would pop instantly. same issue. no illumination on cluster. tail lights out. ended up take it to a mechanic friend of mine cuz i hate electrical problems. he said he found a short under the truck that was causing it to blow. i guess something was grounding out. try looking for something underneath sorry i cant be more disciptive as to were
not yet but I am on to something.
so today on the way home from work I stop at autozone and talk to the guy. tell him my problem and he was like can I take a look at it, I said sure. go outside show him and the ****ing things are back on!!!! im like wtf!???
But we did notice that in on mode the taillights wear pulsating again, then in auto mode my tail lights would be brighter and my dash lights would be dimmer and vise versa when u switched to on and auto modes. drove home less than 5 mins and the problems back, my friend pulls in the drive way and we play with the switch for a minute. all of a sudden we smell some burning....? we pop the side panel an check the headlight switch. smell the switch sorta stinks then smell behind the dash, really stinks.
so sure enough we start poking around in there and see that the truck has a viper alarm/ maybe remote start as well hooked up to it but I didn't know about it because I bought the truck used and didn't have a remote for the viper alarm system. I have been using the factory remote since I bought the truck. So im thinking its something with this alarm that is just sitting in there. so I think I am going to take the track to an audio place and have them take a peek and maybe have them reinstall a brand new one.
I faulty or damaged remote start/ alarm system would have to be spliced into these system I am having issues with right? I think I am on to something.
01-14-2014, 12:47 AM
#15
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do you remember where your friend looked exactly? that might be helpful
not yet but I am on to something.
so today on the way home from work I stop at autozone and talk to the guy. tell him my problem and he was like can I take a look at it, I said sure. go outside show him and the ****ing things are back on!!!! im like wtf!???
But we did notice that in on mode the taillights wear pulsating again, then in auto mode my tail lights would be brighter and my dash lights would be dimmer and vise versa when u switched to on and auto modes. drove home less than 5 mins and the problems back, my friend pulls in the drive way and we play with the switch for a minute. all of a sudden we smell some burning....? we pop the side panel an check the headlight switch. smell the switch sorta stinks then smell behind the dash, really stinks.
so sure enough we start poking around in there and see that the truck has a viper alarm/ maybe remote start as well hooked up to it but I didn't know about it because I bought the truck used and didn't have a remote for the viper alarm system. I have been using the factory remote since I bought the truck. So im thinking its something with this alarm that is just sitting in there. so I think I am going to take the track to an audio place and have them take a peek and maybe have them reinstall a brand new one.
I faulty or damaged remote start/ alarm system would have to be spliced into these system I am having issues with right? I think I am on to something.
not yet but I am on to something.
so today on the way home from work I stop at autozone and talk to the guy. tell him my problem and he was like can I take a look at it, I said sure. go outside show him and the ****ing things are back on!!!! im like wtf!???
But we did notice that in on mode the taillights wear pulsating again, then in auto mode my tail lights would be brighter and my dash lights would be dimmer and vise versa when u switched to on and auto modes. drove home less than 5 mins and the problems back, my friend pulls in the drive way and we play with the switch for a minute. all of a sudden we smell some burning....? we pop the side panel an check the headlight switch. smell the switch sorta stinks then smell behind the dash, really stinks.
so sure enough we start poking around in there and see that the truck has a viper alarm/ maybe remote start as well hooked up to it but I didn't know about it because I bought the truck used and didn't have a remote for the viper alarm system. I have been using the factory remote since I bought the truck. So im thinking its something with this alarm that is just sitting in there. so I think I am going to take the track to an audio place and have them take a peek and maybe have them reinstall a brand new one.
I faulty or damaged remote start/ alarm system would have to be spliced into these system I am having issues with right? I think I am on to something.
Lol, you're going to find my common trend is to ask people if they have a remote start or alarm... Some know, some don't. Most systems you tie into the park lights for "park lights while running" or to flash the lights during lock/unlock. Sounds like they tapped in by probably cutting the wire and did a terrible job... This is why I push people to do a good soldering job and not just simply twist the wires together or use T-Taps (especially with starters). I read somewhere that they state most vehicle fires are from aftermarket accessories.
Anyways, it's probably not the remote start/alarm that's faulty but rather a poor connection. The unit just ties into that line so they probably cut it and didn't join it properly. You'll have to trace where it goes back. On mine, I've tapped into the +12V wire (as per most sites - my Fusion though I used a negative), so if it's loose I'm not surprised you're smelling burning. It's probably a VERY poor connection, especially with everything you're describing.... I would probably check that out sooner than later and keep your park lights off until then if you can for the time being. If you keep loading that wire, you're probably going to eventually melt the wire more or start a fire. I've seen this happen from poor soldering jobs (or none), cheap fuses melting the housing due to too much resistance, etc... Personally, if the installer of the unit broke that wire, I'd be a bit worried about how they tied into other wires (brake pedal, door pins/dome light - if alarm, etc)
See if you can follow this wire and find if they tapped into it. If they did, hopefully it'll be a simple fix as resoldering the wire (you could probably get away with retwisting for now but solder for the long run):
PARKLIGHTS --- Brown --- At light switch harness +12V
Don't pull too hard on it, if it's really that loose, you're probably going to have it come right out.
Last edited by homer; 01-14-2014 at 12:55 AM.
01-14-2014, 01:16 PM
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Lol, you're going to find my common trend is to ask people if they have a remote start or alarm... Some know, some don't. Most systems you tie into the park lights for "park lights while running" or to flash the lights during lock/unlock. Sounds like they tapped in by probably cutting the wire and did a terrible job... This is why I push people to do a good soldering job and not just simply twist the wires together or use T-Taps (especially with starters). I read somewhere that they state most vehicle fires are from aftermarket accessories.
Anyways, it's probably not the remote start/alarm that's faulty but rather a poor connection. The unit just ties into that line so they probably cut it and didn't join it properly. You'll have to trace where it goes back. On mine, I've tapped into the +12V wire (as per most sites - my Fusion though I used a negative), so if it's loose I'm not surprised you're smelling burning. It's probably a VERY poor connection, especially with everything you're describing.... I would probably check that out sooner than later and keep your park lights off until then if you can for the time being. If you keep loading that wire, you're probably going to eventually melt the wire more or start a fire. I've seen this happen from poor soldering jobs (or none), cheap fuses melting the housing due to too much resistance, etc... Personally, if the installer of the unit broke that wire, I'd be a bit worried about how they tied into other wires (brake pedal, door pins/dome light - if alarm, etc)
See if you can follow this wire and find if they tapped into it. If they did, hopefully it'll be a simple fix as resoldering the wire (you could probably get away with retwisting for now but solder for the long run):
PARKLIGHTS --- Brown --- At light switch harness +12V
Don't pull too hard on it, if it's really that loose, you're probably going to have it come right out.
Anyways, it's probably not the remote start/alarm that's faulty but rather a poor connection. The unit just ties into that line so they probably cut it and didn't join it properly. You'll have to trace where it goes back. On mine, I've tapped into the +12V wire (as per most sites - my Fusion though I used a negative), so if it's loose I'm not surprised you're smelling burning. It's probably a VERY poor connection, especially with everything you're describing.... I would probably check that out sooner than later and keep your park lights off until then if you can for the time being. If you keep loading that wire, you're probably going to eventually melt the wire more or start a fire. I've seen this happen from poor soldering jobs (or none), cheap fuses melting the housing due to too much resistance, etc... Personally, if the installer of the unit broke that wire, I'd be a bit worried about how they tied into other wires (brake pedal, door pins/dome light - if alarm, etc)
See if you can follow this wire and find if they tapped into it. If they did, hopefully it'll be a simple fix as resoldering the wire (you could probably get away with retwisting for now but solder for the long run):
PARKLIGHTS --- Brown --- At light switch harness +12V
Don't pull too hard on it, if it's really that loose, you're probably going to have it come right out.
ok well that's actually good/bad news but at least I have an idea and someplace to start, but tomorrow I have the truck scheduled to get the remote start removed. so once they do that they I will see if everything goes back to normal. if everything is good I might have them install a new one. but I am getting nervous driving now because I don't want my truck to start on fire.
01-14-2014, 06:14 PM
#17
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Just be careful with those park lights... if you don't have to use them, don't until you get it in. Of course, that doesn't work at night but they're flickering anyways LOL.
*IF* you're thinking of having them install a new one, they may do it cheaper now. The reason I say, if that is a remote start unit in there then most of the wiring is already finished and a bypass will already be installed. They'd have the dash apart and for the most part they don't have to hunt down the wires.
Either way, if it is a remote start and you're having it removed, make sure they give you the bypass module for two reasons: 1. It's already programmed to the truck, 2. it'll save you on the remote start installation.
If it's an alarm and you're having a remote start put in, it may still save you as they'll have the dash apart and some of the wires will lead where they need to.
Removing it really takes very minimal time... BUT! MAKE sure they check those wires when they remove it. Anyone can go in and snip the wires right at the junction, it doesn't mean it's going to fix your park lights if it's taped up. It all depends "how" they remove it. Does that make sense? My brother in law did his really quick and he doesn't do a ton with electrical. I told him just cut the wires close to the factory. Most cases it's not usually worth keeping the unit as it costs just as much to have a new one installed however his is Compustar's top of the line that we had just literally put in and I'm the one installing it again LOL.
*IF* you're thinking of having them install a new one, they may do it cheaper now. The reason I say, if that is a remote start unit in there then most of the wiring is already finished and a bypass will already be installed. They'd have the dash apart and for the most part they don't have to hunt down the wires.
Either way, if it is a remote start and you're having it removed, make sure they give you the bypass module for two reasons: 1. It's already programmed to the truck, 2. it'll save you on the remote start installation.
If it's an alarm and you're having a remote start put in, it may still save you as they'll have the dash apart and some of the wires will lead where they need to.
Removing it really takes very minimal time... BUT! MAKE sure they check those wires when they remove it. Anyone can go in and snip the wires right at the junction, it doesn't mean it's going to fix your park lights if it's taped up. It all depends "how" they remove it. Does that make sense? My brother in law did his really quick and he doesn't do a ton with electrical. I told him just cut the wires close to the factory. Most cases it's not usually worth keeping the unit as it costs just as much to have a new one installed however his is Compustar's top of the line that we had just literally put in and I'm the one installing it again LOL.
01-14-2014, 11:13 PM
#18
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Just be careful with those park lights... if you don't have to use them, don't until you get it in. Of course, that doesn't work at night but they're flickering anyways LOL.
*IF* you're thinking of having them install a new one, they may do it cheaper now. The reason I say, if that is a remote start unit in there then most of the wiring is already finished and a bypass will already be installed. They'd have the dash apart and for the most part they don't have to hunt down the wires.
Either way, if it is a remote start and you're having it removed, make sure they give you the bypass module for two reasons: 1. It's already programmed to the truck, 2. it'll save you on the remote start installation.
If it's an alarm and you're having a remote start put in, it may still save you as they'll have the dash apart and some of the wires will lead where they need to.
Removing it really takes very minimal time... BUT! MAKE sure they check those wires when they remove it. Anyone can go in and snip the wires right at the junction, it doesn't mean it's going to fix your park lights if it's taped up. It all depends "how" they remove it. Does that make sense? My brother in law did his really quick and he doesn't do a ton with electrical. I told him just cut the wires close to the factory. Most cases it's not usually worth keeping the unit as it costs just as much to have a new one installed however his is Compustar's top of the line that we had just literally put in and I'm the one installing it again LOL.
*IF* you're thinking of having them install a new one, they may do it cheaper now. The reason I say, if that is a remote start unit in there then most of the wiring is already finished and a bypass will already be installed. They'd have the dash apart and for the most part they don't have to hunt down the wires.
Either way, if it is a remote start and you're having it removed, make sure they give you the bypass module for two reasons: 1. It's already programmed to the truck, 2. it'll save you on the remote start installation.
If it's an alarm and you're having a remote start put in, it may still save you as they'll have the dash apart and some of the wires will lead where they need to.
Removing it really takes very minimal time... BUT! MAKE sure they check those wires when they remove it. Anyone can go in and snip the wires right at the junction, it doesn't mean it's going to fix your park lights if it's taped up. It all depends "how" they remove it. Does that make sense? My brother in law did his really quick and he doesn't do a ton with electrical. I told him just cut the wires close to the factory. Most cases it's not usually worth keeping the unit as it costs just as much to have a new one installed however his is Compustar's top of the line that we had just literally put in and I'm the one installing it again LOL.
but yea he already said he would give me a cheaper price since it already has the bypass module in there. but like he said he wants to remove all the **** and put it back to stock to make sure everything is working how it should, then install a new system if I want to.
