P0345 & p0349, 2005 f150 v8 5.4
02-10-2017, 09:25 PM
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
On last thing, when I had the oil changed, I had a friend with those handheld camera scopes. We fed it through the drain hole of the pan (after draining the oil) and searched for plastic pieces and there was nothing.
02-11-2017, 08:34 AM
#42
LightningRod
I'd still bet a hundred bucks you need a timing job. 
(Either jumped a tooth on bank 2 or worn chains)
Since my prior comments, I have worked out OBDII PIDs for Bank2 on my Torque Pro scanner - posted here: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...4/#post5133357. I'd give anything to see the results of that ran on your truck if you aren't able to get o'scope readings. If you ever get to San Antonio, or Canyon Lake let me know and I'll do it for free.
Given all the 'right things' you have done - I hate to throw cold water on any of it, but I have very little confidence in this:
Draining the oil doesn't get rid of every last drop and I'm not sure you could see pieces laying in the residual layer of oil. When I pulled the pan on mine and looked in there, the pieces weren't even that obvious laying in the thin layer of oil in the bottom. Most the broken pieces of guides were still up there 'rubbing' on the chains.
Also:
Why do you say that with 220,000 miles on your truck? Have you done a timing job before? If not - as with mine (replaced at 212k mi) and as I mentioned before, that ain't bad service out of a set of steel chains on any vehicle. JMO
(Either jumped a tooth on bank 2 or worn chains)...
... I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but at just over 200,000 miles I'm afraid the rough idle / chain slap / crappy running is just around the corner. 200K mi is not bad life for steel chains - and as they stretch, the slack is taken up by the tensioners (if they are working properly) and tensioner arms. Pushing all the slack out on one side results in a few degrees shift in the actual cam position relative to CKP. That, (as well as jumping a tooth in chain timing) will result in P0340 and 349. All this WILL ultimately lead to broken chain guides and the dreaded P0022 (over retarded) code.
...
In an effort to expedite things and avoid more parts, you might Or have some put an oscilloscope on it to very CAM/TDC timing as @65comet suggested - or remove driver's side valve cover and see if there is a lot of chain slack.
...
... I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but at just over 200,000 miles I'm afraid the rough idle / chain slap / crappy running is just around the corner. 200K mi is not bad life for steel chains - and as they stretch, the slack is taken up by the tensioners (if they are working properly) and tensioner arms. Pushing all the slack out on one side results in a few degrees shift in the actual cam position relative to CKP. That, (as well as jumping a tooth in chain timing) will result in P0340 and 349. All this WILL ultimately lead to broken chain guides and the dreaded P0022 (over retarded) code.
...
In an effort to expedite things and avoid more parts, you might Or have some put an oscilloscope on it to very CAM/TDC timing as @65comet suggested - or remove driver's side valve cover and see if there is a lot of chain slack.
...
Given all the 'right things' you have done - I hate to throw cold water on any of it, but I have very little confidence in this:
Draining the oil doesn't get rid of every last drop and I'm not sure you could see pieces laying in the residual layer of oil. When I pulled the pan on mine and looked in there, the pieces weren't even that obvious laying in the thin layer of oil in the bottom. Most the broken pieces of guides were still up there 'rubbing' on the chains.
Also:
Why do you say that with 220,000 miles on your truck? Have you done a timing job before? If not - as with mine (replaced at 212k mi) and as I mentioned before, that ain't bad service out of a set of steel chains on any vehicle. JMO
02-12-2017, 09:29 AM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm pretty sure y'all are right and the timing needs to be corrected. I'm not bashing my truck, i love it. 220k miles is a long while.
But The timing parts are very expensive and the same problem will be returning back again.
I'm thinking of just trading it in for something else.
Thanks again for yalls help
But The timing parts are very expensive and the same problem will be returning back again.
I'm thinking of just trading it in for something else.
Thanks again for yalls help