P0345 & p0349, 2005 f150 v8 5.4
12-09-2016, 03:48 AM
#21
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
With that many miles I would look at my oil pan .
If she's got plastic guide pieces in there then you know you are in for a timing job . Its doable if you have the garage and time .
Just plan on doing her right . Its not cheap but its a lot cheaper than new or re-man job . If it is timing just doing phasors is not going to fix it . Just stick to OEM parts and change out tensioners to the metal kind and a new melling oil pump .
This oil pan is minor surgery but can tell you a lot . But I have heard of people getting 280k before this timing job .
Maybe you have found a simple fix by now if you are lucky . The timing job is not bad its just hard to get the timing cover off and passenger valve cover off .
The svares final fix sticky is your guide and if course the many people on here that have done it are very helpful. Ask and you shall receive .
Good luck .
Just plan on doing her right . Its not cheap but its a lot cheaper than new or re-man job . If it is timing just doing phasors is not going to fix it . Just stick to OEM parts and change out tensioners to the metal kind and a new melling oil pump .
This oil pan is minor surgery but can tell you a lot . But I have heard of people getting 280k before this timing job .
Maybe you have found a simple fix by now if you are lucky . The timing job is not bad its just hard to get the timing cover off and passenger valve cover off .
The svares final fix sticky is your guide and if course the many people on here that have done it are very helpful. Ask and you shall receive .
Good luck .
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adanvjr (12-29-2016)
12-09-2016, 11:46 AM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If she's got plastic guide pieces in there then you know you are in for a timing job . Its doable if you have the garage and time .
Just plan on doing her right . Its not cheap but its a lot cheaper than new or re-man job . If it is timing just doing phasors is not going to fix it . Just stick to OEM parts and change out tensioners to the metal kind and a new melling oil pump .
This oil pan is minor surgery but can tell you a lot . But I have heard of people getting 280k before this timing job .
Maybe you have found a simple fix by now if you are lucky . The timing job is not bad its just hard to get the timing cover off and passenger valve cover off .
The svares final fix sticky is your guide and if course the many people on here that have done it are very helpful. Ask and you shall receive .
Good luck .
Just plan on doing her right . Its not cheap but its a lot cheaper than new or re-man job . If it is timing just doing phasors is not going to fix it . Just stick to OEM parts and change out tensioners to the metal kind and a new melling oil pump .
This oil pan is minor surgery but can tell you a lot . But I have heard of people getting 280k before this timing job .
Maybe you have found a simple fix by now if you are lucky . The timing job is not bad its just hard to get the timing cover off and passenger valve cover off .
The svares final fix sticky is your guide and if course the many people on here that have done it are very helpful. Ask and you shall receive .
Good luck .
I'm curious to see how long this job will take to perform for your average Joe without help?
Other than oil changes, spark plug & COP, shock/strut, and brakes, I don't have much in depth experience in engines such as timing chains and such.
I don't have a lot of time, plus I don't have a backup vehicle for my daily commutes.
I'm praying for the best, but preparing for the worst.
12-10-2016, 02:19 AM
#23
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
I have heard of guys doing this job in a weekend
I'm an old slow guy with plenty of time so I am not a good time base measurement . I believe it can be done in a weekend if you gear up and get a buddy to help.
I would have a rent a wreck backing me up and all the tools and parts laid out . Torque wrenches , wheel puller for crank pulley. Lots of hand tools . You can borrow fan removal tool from autozone as well as a wheel puller .
You will need a big piece of cardboard to make a template of timing cover bolts and stuff . It takes a lot of planning and study .
Good luck and Git her done .
I would have a rent a wreck backing me up and all the tools and parts laid out . Torque wrenches , wheel puller for crank pulley. Lots of hand tools . You can borrow fan removal tool from autozone as well as a wheel puller .
You will need a big piece of cardboard to make a template of timing cover bolts and stuff . It takes a lot of planning and study .
Good luck and Git her done .
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adanvjr (12-29-2016)
12-13-2016, 06:13 PM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well, I got the VCT solenoid and changed it out. It was a bit of a pain to take out the cover. Luckily we had a very small pair of vice-grips at work and I was able to get it out.
After taking out the old VCT, I took a photo of it. Compared to the new one, the screens on the old one are partially plastic and one of the sets is missing:
I changed it out afterwards, cranked it back on and erased the codes.
But the second time I cranked it on, the same codes came back.
After further research, it looks like it may be a electronic issue. So I'm going to be taking it to an Auto Electric shop and see if they can find out. Every mechanic shop I spoke to admitted they'll be sending it to an auto electric shop as well.
I'll update whenever I get an answer.
It's pretty irritating how my trucks sounds & runs like it has been, but a little light will keep it from passing inspection.
After taking out the old VCT, I took a photo of it. Compared to the new one, the screens on the old one are partially plastic and one of the sets is missing:
I changed it out afterwards, cranked it back on and erased the codes.
But the second time I cranked it on, the same codes came back.
After further research, it looks like it may be a electronic issue. So I'm going to be taking it to an Auto Electric shop and see if they can find out. Every mechanic shop I spoke to admitted they'll be sending it to an auto electric shop as well.
I'll update whenever I get an answer.
It's pretty irritating how my trucks sounds & runs like it has been, but a little light will keep it from passing inspection.
12-28-2016, 09:26 AM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I took it to an auto electric shop.
After letting them tinker for a day, they informed all sensors are good but the actual PCM is receiving (but not accepting) the 5V pulses from the CAM sensor.
So they recommended replacing the whole PCM and wanted $800 ($500 for the unit, $300 for programming and installation).
I refused as I can't afford that.
I went online and found an online store that sells refurbished PCMs already programmed with new keys. $275 total. I order it, receive it, get the new keys cut to match my old key (since the ignition is the same). Replacement only takes about 5 mins.
I crank it on and it ran fine. In fact, it was more responsive than before.
However, after shutting off, then turning back on, the same CEL codes came back!!!
P0345
P0349
P0345-Pending
P0349-Pending
With the CAM sensors, VCT, and PCM I replaced, I already dumped nearly $450 into this already and nothing changed. This was the exact thing I was trying to prevent (dumping money on new parts that were unnecessary).
I'm thinking of just giving up and keep driving it until it falls apart on me.
After letting them tinker for a day, they informed all sensors are good but the actual PCM is receiving (but not accepting) the 5V pulses from the CAM sensor.
So they recommended replacing the whole PCM and wanted $800 ($500 for the unit, $300 for programming and installation).
I refused as I can't afford that.
I went online and found an online store that sells refurbished PCMs already programmed with new keys. $275 total. I order it, receive it, get the new keys cut to match my old key (since the ignition is the same). Replacement only takes about 5 mins.
I crank it on and it ran fine. In fact, it was more responsive than before.
However, after shutting off, then turning back on, the same CEL codes came back!!!
P0345
P0349
P0345-Pending
P0349-Pending
With the CAM sensors, VCT, and PCM I replaced, I already dumped nearly $450 into this already and nothing changed. This was the exact thing I was trying to prevent (dumping money on new parts that were unnecessary).
I'm thinking of just giving up and keep driving it until it falls apart on me.
12-28-2016, 01:41 PM
#26
LightningRod
@adanvjr, sorry about your struggle. 
After reviewing all posts leading up to here - a couple of things stand out to me. Most important: You say you're thinking of just "driving it until it falls apart on you". That might not be the best solution - as your persistent codes suggests, (considering what you've done so far), that that might not be too far down the road.
As mentioned in post #16, somewhere slightly over 200,000 miles is not completely unreasonable service life for metal chains (no matter the vehicle type) - and especially for plastic chain guides & tensioners.
You say:
None of us like throwing parts at one. But, there is no shame in trying some sensor changes while hoping your truck will last a little longer without mechanical issues. Sometimes it is even 'necessary' to narrow things down. We've ALL done it. And, unfortunately, even professionals make a bad call based on their own diagnostic results. But personally, given mileage together with history of this engine type, I am amazed a professional "Auto Electric Shop" would say "the PCM is receiving ("but not accepting") the 5V pulses from the CAM sensor". Then recommend replacing the computer!, without cross/verifying that opinion with pulse timing characteristics with an oscilloscope. Of COURSE its not accepting CAM timing signals. Kudos to them! That's what P0345 & 0349 means. Could be because of electrical issues (low battery / bad noisy alternator / or high starter current - since the PCM detects this code EARLY upon starting - OR bad PCM.
But those signals have to 'arrive' at the PCM when it is expecting them and/or looking for them TOO. As chains wear/stretch - the effect is the clockwise leading edge of the Phaser becomes retarded from where it should be. Or if a guide breaks/disintegrates or chain jumps a tooth due to poor tensioning or excessive slack - the Phaser fingers are NOT located beneath the CAM sensor when the PCM expects them to be, or are late. I do not know how the PCM's threshold difference between a P0345 and P0022, but both are similar. And as mentioned in Post #16 - regrettably I do not believe they are very far away.
@redfishtd made a very reasonable (and inexpensive) diagnostic procedure suggestion. Pull the pan and see if you have pieces of guides in there. Regrettably, my opinion is that you probably will.
After reviewing all posts leading up to here - a couple of things stand out to me. Most important: You say you're thinking of just "driving it until it falls apart on you". That might not be the best solution - as your persistent codes suggests, (considering what you've done so far), that that might not be too far down the road.
As mentioned in post #16, somewhere slightly over 200,000 miles is not completely unreasonable service life for metal chains (no matter the vehicle type) - and especially for plastic chain guides & tensioners.
You say:
None of us like throwing parts at one. But, there is no shame in trying some sensor changes while hoping your truck will last a little longer without mechanical issues. Sometimes it is even 'necessary' to narrow things down. We've ALL done it. And, unfortunately, even professionals make a bad call based on their own diagnostic results. But personally, given mileage together with history of this engine type, I am amazed a professional "Auto Electric Shop" would say "the PCM is receiving ("but not accepting") the 5V pulses from the CAM sensor". Then recommend replacing the computer!, without cross/verifying that opinion with pulse timing characteristics with an oscilloscope. Of COURSE its not accepting CAM timing signals. Kudos to them! That's what P0345 & 0349 means. Could be because of electrical issues (low battery / bad noisy alternator / or high starter current - since the PCM detects this code EARLY upon starting - OR bad PCM.
But those signals have to 'arrive' at the PCM when it is expecting them and/or looking for them TOO. As chains wear/stretch - the effect is the clockwise leading edge of the Phaser becomes retarded from where it should be. Or if a guide breaks/disintegrates or chain jumps a tooth due to poor tensioning or excessive slack - the Phaser fingers are NOT located beneath the CAM sensor when the PCM expects them to be, or are late. I do not know how the PCM's threshold difference between a P0345 and P0022, but both are similar. And as mentioned in Post #16 - regrettably I do not believe they are very far away.
@redfishtd made a very reasonable (and inexpensive) diagnostic procedure suggestion. Pull the pan and see if you have pieces of guides in there. Regrettably, my opinion is that you probably will.
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adanvjr (12-28-2016)
12-28-2016, 06:36 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input.
I really don't think there's a timing issue from the Cam/Phasers.
Plus I dont have the P0022 code that everyone advises about.
On top of that, seeing these videos on replacing the timing components, its clear I don't have the time or confidence to do it.
Like I said, my truck runs fine. No problems starting up, when accelerating, idling, etc. This past Monday, I even pulled this Australian family's Grand Cherokee out of the mud with ease.
That P0349 code keeps telling there's some sort of electrical issue.
Is there a way I can get a pinout diagram of the harnesses and PCM?
I have a wiring diagram, but since that auto electric shop was wrong, I would like to do a continuity check again as I now doubt their troubleshooting.
I need to know the order how the pins are setup.
I really don't think there's a timing issue from the Cam/Phasers.
Plus I dont have the P0022 code that everyone advises about.
On top of that, seeing these videos on replacing the timing components, its clear I don't have the time or confidence to do it.
Like I said, my truck runs fine. No problems starting up, when accelerating, idling, etc. This past Monday, I even pulled this Australian family's Grand Cherokee out of the mud with ease.
That P0349 code keeps telling there's some sort of electrical issue.
Is there a way I can get a pinout diagram of the harnesses and PCM?
I have a wiring diagram, but since that auto electric shop was wrong, I would like to do a continuity check again as I now doubt their troubleshooting.
I need to know the order how the pins are setup.
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adanvjr (12-29-2016)
12-28-2016, 09:49 PM
#30
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
With that kind of miles mechanical failure is probable
Sometimes we change the messenger instead of believing what they are telling us . You are fortunate to get 205k with out a major problem .
I would say get temp vehicle to get you by and pull the timing cover and oil pan . Its a good $ 1300 for a oem timing job . You can get many more miles out of it if the damage is contained.
New trucks cost a fortune not to mention loan costs . We were all in your spot at one time but we learned as we went, most of us are not wrenches . Your knowledge of engines will expand rapidly if you tackle this . There is lots of help here and 99% of people on here can get thru this .
You could have a new truck and it could quit on you tomorrow. We all face the backup vehicle problem but we have to think out of the box .
You have already saved a lot of money by doing the work yourself so don't be so hard on yourself . Try cleaning /replacing connectors on sensors that's a cheap thing ,worth a try . .
Good luck to you and may your fix be an easy one .
I would say get temp vehicle to get you by and pull the timing cover and oil pan . Its a good $ 1300 for a oem timing job . You can get many more miles out of it if the damage is contained.
New trucks cost a fortune not to mention loan costs . We were all in your spot at one time but we learned as we went, most of us are not wrenches . Your knowledge of engines will expand rapidly if you tackle this . There is lots of help here and 99% of people on here can get thru this .
You could have a new truck and it could quit on you tomorrow. We all face the backup vehicle problem but we have to think out of the box .
You have already saved a lot of money by doing the work yourself so don't be so hard on yourself . Try cleaning /replacing connectors on sensors that's a cheap thing ,worth a try . .
Good luck to you and may your fix be an easy one .
The following 2 users liked this post by redfishtd:
adanvjr (12-29-2016),
F150Torqued (12-28-2016)