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@F150Torqued I hope you can help. Your above posts are really informative.
Phasers, vct solenoids, rockers, lifters, chains, Metal tensioners, guides, etc.. all only have 3k miles on them. It was running perfect for months. Truck shut off on me few weeks ago and said low oil pressure when it did. Dropped pan, cleaned sludge from pan and oil pickup. I was getting code p0022(phaser over retarded bank 1) and p0340. Phaser came apart (New OEM Ford) and also damaged the front of the cam. Repaired that with a new cam and phaser, then it still ran like crap and gave codes p0021(phaser over advanced bank 2) and p0345. I changed the phaser, VCT solenoid is new and works as it makes a difference in how it runs if I jump it to the battery. Used Forscan and a noid light to verify the connector is working for the vct solenoid. I ended up retarding bank 2 by 1 tooth on the chain. It runs better, but still misses and you can smell raw gas in the exhaust. The only codes were p0345 and for ignition coil G. I cleared codes and reseated the coil connector. Started it up and it gives code p0345. WTF? Cold idle oil pressure is over 75psi as I installed an M360HV oil pump. Luckily, the marks on t he cam and cam cap are still present from when I did the timing job. I had to advance the cam 2 teeth after I retarded it a tooth to get the marks to line up perfectly again, however based on the below screen shot, it makes me think the cam needs retarded back 2 teeth again since it shows 34deg advance. I am not sure why it occasionally blips to 342deg advance. It hovers in the 34ish range. Bank 1 hovers at 0 as it should. I have gotten the code when the cam gear is 1 tooth, 2 teeth, and 3 teeth retarded from its current position, though when retarded from where it is currently, I also get the code p0021 which is for bank 2 too far advanced, however that went away when I advanced the cam to where it is now. The phaser is 42 teeth, which puts it at about 8.5deg per tooth atthe cam, and about 17deg at the crank per tooth. I am tempted to advance it yet another tooth but would like your input first. I do not have an osciliscope, and Forscan says "not ready" on all Mode 6 functions. The app for the OBDlink MX+ is what the screen shot is from. Also, the timing spokes are not bent on the phaser. I have even tried the old phaser I removed that had no codes when I did the timing job due to broken chain guides. Currently the "new" OEM Ford phaser is installed.
Last edited by williamb82; May 16, 2023 at 02:49 PM.
I retarded the driver side cam 2 teeth and got rhis info. Still code p0345
I then advanced the cam so it was 1 tooth further advanced from where I started today and got this info, and still code p0345.
It looks like I need to put it back where I started today, but why would the advance be so different from 1 bank to the other? Could this new oen Ford phaser with less than 3k miles on it be bad? Shouldnt it be locked at 0deg unless its in reverse or drive?
Ok, I put it back where it was. Lined up perfect.
The data confirms it. Didnt realize the white numbers move. Both hover around zero now like they should but it still idles really rough. My new coil connectors will not be here till tomorrow. I willdrop the exhaust and make sure Ididnt melt thecat while running it with the cam retarded whenI was flushing the engine.
Wish I knew what the blue numbers were for exactly.
Ok, I put it back where it was. Lined up perfect.
The data confirms it. Didnt realize the white numbers move. Both hover around zero now like they should but it still idles really rough. My new coil connectors will not be here till tomorrow. I willdrop the exhaust and make sure Ididnt melt thecat while running it with the cam retarded whenI was flushing the engine.
Wish I knew what the blue numbers were for exactly.
Show us photos of the front of the phasers..
I'm not sure what software you are using there, but it looks to me like your blue numbers are left to right- minimum, avg, and maximum. The average must be based over time also since it's not right between the min and max.
The phasers are correct. I amcertain of that. As for the software, I bought the ODBLink mx+ that is recomended on the videos posted by fordtechmakuloco. The forscan software wont run mode 6, everything says "not ready", so I installed the ODBLink app on my phone.
the exhaust was rattling bad when I flushed the engine so I want to check it out.
Melted the drivers side cat. Happened while doing the oil flush as I had to hold the engine over 2k rpm and bank 2 was 1 tooth retarded. Took the exhaust off and a lot if the cat material fell out.
Ok. Still having issues. Hollowed out tge cats. Now it will start and idle, but runs rough. Itll stall as it starts warming up. If I unplug the bank 2 cam sensor it runs better but still rough. Same with both cam sensors unplugged. I ohmed all of the coils. All are 1.0-1.1 ohms for primary except 1,it is 1.3ohms. Secondary resistance us 5.5k-5.8k ohms for all of them. I replaced tge plastic coil connectors on the ones thst broke. No wire splicing required. All coils are plugged in solid. Same for injectors. I still get P0345, and also codes saying bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 are full lean. I think that may be due to the hollowed out cats. I do not have the o2 sensir restrictors yet, but they have been ordered. Not putting cats on untill the truck runs right.
I took the alternator off today and had it tested. It passed. So I have no idea why im getting code P0345, and after reving it a number of times, it will throw code p0021 again as well. It makes no sense. I even tried my old phaser that worked fine when I tore it down for the timing job 3k miles ago. Same exact results. Ive got 4 new coils on the way. Im going to swap that 1 coil with a new 1, then swap all coils 1 at a time to see if the miss/stumble clears up. Any other ideas?
I swapped the vct solenoids with each other. Codes are still the exact same so it is not the vct solenoids. Also, a max advance of 343deg is not physically possible, so how is it reading that?
Last edited by williamb82; May 22, 2023 at 07:09 PM.
If I or anyone else can figure out whats causing the extra 300deg, I think it would be fixed. Yhe phaser isnt physically able to advance that far. I put the oreilly cam sensor I bought, back on bank 2. No change. Verified the wiring to the ecu from that connector is good as well. I think it is some sort of interference causing a bogus read, but from what?