Oil Pan Removal
#11
JNelson
Thread Starter
So I completed the job yesterday. The solenoids were not too bad other than getting the dumb seals out. I then tackled the job of getting the pan off. There is definitely no way to get the pan down by just lowering the sway bar. I had to remove the crossmember, drop the sway bar, and then drop the front passenger side axle. Wasn't too bad but I had a buddy to help. It would also help if I had a lift. I was excited to see that I didn't really have any sludge at 135,000 miles but I did find a small piece of plastic in the oil pump screen. So I think my damage was done and I will definitely be changing out guides, phasers, tensioners and everything else. Much to my amazement though when I got to drop off my used oil the old girl was a lot quieter then normal. As I drove it more and more the tick got louder but it isn't near as bad as it was before and it takes twice as long before it starts. It was definitely worth changing the solenoids and dropping the pan.
#14
JNelson
Thread Starter
I got everything online. I got the cloyes timing set with all felpro gaskets. I had heard to just get the dorman phasers and save a few bucks so I found them for less than $150 a piece online. I'm having second thoughts about them but they do carry a lifetime warranty. They don't seem any different and dorman says they only sell the updated parts.
#15
Were there any other issues removing the oil pan? I have a leak that looks like it's coming from the front of the oil pan. Hoping it's just the gasket and the PO didn't over-torque the pan bolts and bend the rim. Will i be able to get a new gasket in there without pulling the whole pan down or is it worth the trouble to take the whole thing off. I have the 4.6 so I don't think there are any problems with the phasers.
#16
JNelson
Thread Starter
I don't know if the 4.6 set up is any different with the oil pan but the front 4 bolts of the pan require a swivel head wrench or something to get in there. The front diff is in the way but its not too bad. The gasket is reusable and I used rtv around it anyways to make sure I didn't have leaks. Oil pan gasket is 0S30725R and $21.99 at autozone if you needed one. I had a similar situation as you but with the tranny pan when I did a flush.
#17
Member
Sorry for all the questions lol but where did you find the VCT solenoids and how much were they each?
And did you ever run any cleaner through the oil or a flush to keep your motor clean?
Mine has 146,000 on it and Im wondering if I should run some seafoam or engine flush through it before I drop the pan.
And did you ever run any cleaner through the oil or a flush to keep your motor clean?
Mine has 146,000 on it and Im wondering if I should run some seafoam or engine flush through it before I drop the pan.
#18
Originally Posted by 05screw
Sorry for all the questions lol but where did you find the VCT solenoids and how much were they each?
And did you ever run any cleaner through the oil or a flush to keep your motor clean?
Mine has 146,000 on it and Im wondering if I should run some seafoam or engine flush through it before I drop the pan.
And did you ever run any cleaner through the oil or a flush to keep your motor clean?
Mine has 146,000 on it and Im wondering if I should run some seafoam or engine flush through it before I drop the pan.
#20
JNelson
Thread Starter
Call tasca ford parts. They have a website but I couldn't find what I needed. I called them and the guy knew exactly what I was talking about. Make sure to get the seals because you will most likely mess them up when you take them off. After everything it cost me just under $90 for both solenoids and seals and I did it over the phone. I couldn't believe the price because they are the ford oem updated part. Even the dorman brand was more expensive online. I have never ran any cleaner in the oil. I've had it for about 16,000 miles and I run valvoline full synthetic 5w-20 with a motorcraft filter. Ill answer any questions you've got!
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05screw (10-05-2012)