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Yeah I know. My Redneck, cheap-*** Walmart funnel wire tied under there does 1000 times better job. Used to **** me off when I put my oil pan under the front drain of that factory diverter - then when I removed the filter, all the oil ran out the back of it on the floor (behind the oil pan) because I gotta' raise it a few inches with a floor jack. That funnel cured all that crap. I can still get to the filter from either bottom OR top (though usually do it from top). Then the other thing I "LOVE" is my Quick Drain from "Unique Truck". It has a brass knurled cap that I you screw off without a wrench (and nothing comes out -) Then insert a knurled brass fitting with 8" hose. When you tighten it on the drain - the oil just runs down the tube right into the oil drain pan. I do not have to have any tools for that, and wont get a DROP on my forearm
For these reasons @BadFish523's price is WAY TOO HIGH. !!!!!!!!!!! He ought to do it for five bucks!
Haha $5 wont buy me enough beer to drink while I wait for the oil to drain. I really think it's supposed to run out the back. My truck is stock height and I don't raise it up on jacks and it runs out the back. I remove the filter (runs out the back) then dump a little extra out of the filter (towards the back) then bring the filter out the front and usually have no drips out the front side.
Yeah I know. My Redneck, cheap-*** Walmart funnel wire tied under there does 1000 times better job. Used to **** me off when I put my oil pan under the front drain of that factory diverter - then when I removed the filter, all the oil ran out the back of it on the floor (behind the oil pan) because I gotta'
raise it a few inches with a floor jack. That funnel cured all that crap. I can still get to the filter from either bottom OR top (though usually do it from top). Then the other thing I "LOVE" is my Quick Drain from "Unique Truck". It has a brass knurled cap that I you screw off without a wrench (and nothing comes out -) Then insert a knurled brass fitting with 8" hose. When you tighten it on the drain - the oil just runs down the tube right into the oil drain pan. I do not have to have any tools for that, and wont get a DROP on my forearm
For these reasons @BadFish523's price is WAY TOO HIGH. !!!!!!!!!!! He ought to do it for five bucks!
At first I was wondering what all that blue was I'm seeing then I realized you painted your cover, probably when you did your timing job ha ha. Looks good
This cheap 'contraption' mentioned above has been one of the mods I've ever done to my truck. As soon as filter is unscrewed, I just let the threaded end drop down in the funnel and the filter drains cleanly in my oil pan. Has been wire tied there for over 50,000 miles (since my timing job).
This! No reason to tighten it beyond snug with just one hand.
Originally Posted by techrep
If you all are having to use tools to get you filter off .. you are installing it way too tight or it’s been on there way too long.. mine comes off by hand every 5000 Miles.
I only use the Ford 820S filters and use an attachment to my ratchet that mates perfectly to the filter ridges. The ratchet has a swivel head and allows my old arm to just break the tension and then I pull it off by hand.....
I wish Ford had designed a port inside the drivers side wheel well you could open to access it easier with the wheel turned. My arthritis would thank them
Yeah I know. My Redneck, cheap-*** Walmart funnel wire tied under there does 1000 times better job. Used to **** me off when I put my oil pan under the front drain of that factory diverter - then when I removed the filter, all the oil ran out the back of it on the floor (behind the oil pan) because I gotta'
raise it a few inches with a floor jack. That funnel cured all that crap. I can still get to the filter from either bottom OR top (though usually do it from top). Then the other thing I "LOVE" is my Quick Drain from "Unique Truck". It has a brass knurled cap that I you screw off without a wrench (and nothing comes out -) Then insert a knurled brass fitting with 8" hose. When you tighten it on the drain - the oil just runs down the tube right into the oil drain pan. I do not have to have any tools for that, and wont get a DROP on my forearm
For these reasons @BadFish523's price is WAY TOO HIGH. !!!!!!!!!!! He ought to do it for five bucks!
I removed that diverter a long time ago . Funnel may be the ticket . I had a rat get into my fan belt and die and get trapped on that diverter causing the belt to come off . Before I found it I changed all the pulleys and tensioner out of caution .Then I changed oil , when I pulled the big stucco drain pan out with the oil I thought I saw a paper towel floating in oil so i grabbed it. It was the furry rat, boy did I throw that oily rat away from me. But it had already cost me over a hundred bucks . It was a costly
relief knowing what caused it to flip the belt off, not to mention 6 hours of labor lost.
I sometimes put green rat bars under the hood to keep rats down . My truck had just been sitting overnight and threw the belt when I started it .
I find a stucco pan works well for a drain pan , home depot has them .I then pour into old milk jugs and use it for brush pit fires . Best fire starter out there, doesn't blow up either.
I agree the oil filter is a PITA to remove, I struggle with it each time I'm under my truck. I use MC FL-820s and I've learned that HAND tightening is the way to go.
Hand tightening is the key. I just use a big *** pair of pliers and crush the MC filter when I'm changing it, then its easy to undo.
I also oil up the o-ring before install to make sure it seals good and doesn't degrade or stick to the surface.
03-16-2018, 07:25 AM
I really think it's supposed to run out the back. My truck is stock height and I don't raise it up on jacks and it runs out the back. I remove the filter (runs out the back) then dump a little extra out of the filter (towards the back) then bring the filter out the front and usually have no drips out the front side.
