Not enough vacuum, front hubs engaging??
08-11-2010, 08:33 PM
#11
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Ok so I just did a vacuum test my self and this is what I found. Coming from the engine at idle i have 19, after the IWE I have only 13-14, and at the hubs I have the same. So I am guessing that the iwe is bad, even though the dealership said they replaced it but yes I know, what they said and what they did is two different things. SO off to the parts store.
08-11-2010, 08:35 PM
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Ok so I just did a vacuum test my self and this is what I found. Coming from the engine at idle i have 19, after the IWE I have only 13-14, and at the hubs I have the same. So I am guessing that the iwe is bad, even though the dealership said they replaced it but yes I know, what they said and what they did is two different things. SO off to the parts store.
08-24-2010, 01:09 AM
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hezzy602,
First, I suggest reading this thread. It explains how the 4x4 works and how to trouble shoot the system. Most people find the thread VERY helpful.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/836438-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-the-iwe-system-and-then-some.html
I THINK what you are saying the dealer replaced was the hub and the IWE (integrated wheel element) on the inner side of that hub. I don't beleive the air intake system is the problem (if it was, it would have immediatly occured when the air system was installed), but a vacuum leak in the 4x4 system probably IS the problem. Check your invoice from the dealer to see what specific parts were installed (then tell us). Specifically check for a solenoid replacement. The solenoid is a very common failure in the system, causing the IWEs to fail/cause damage to the hubs. The next most common failures are the rubber lines tranferring vacuum to from different locations.
First, I suggest reading this thread. It explains how the 4x4 works and how to trouble shoot the system. Most people find the thread VERY helpful.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/836438-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-the-iwe-system-and-then-some.html
I THINK what you are saying the dealer replaced was the hub and the IWE (integrated wheel element) on the inner side of that hub. I don't beleive the air intake system is the problem (if it was, it would have immediatly occured when the air system was installed), but a vacuum leak in the 4x4 system probably IS the problem. Check your invoice from the dealer to see what specific parts were installed (then tell us). Specifically check for a solenoid replacement. The solenoid is a very common failure in the system, causing the IWEs to fail/cause damage to the hubs. The next most common failures are the rubber lines tranferring vacuum to from different locations.
Thank You Thank You!!
12-16-2010, 10:39 AM
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First off my truck-2004 F-150 Supercrew 4x4 4'' lift 35X12.5 58000 miles Volant cold air intake Flowmaster muffler
So I had a grinding noise coming from my front end or below the cab so I took it to a transmission shop. They said everything is fine, transmission, transfer case, u joints, all ok. So my next step is I took it to the dealership. They found out that my front right hub was trying to engage while I was driving, usually at higher speeds, or all the time while I was towing something. I saw the old hub the teeth were all chipped and damaged. So they replaced that and they also replace some vacuum hub thingmajigger actuator that works with the four-wheel drive and the hub. They found out that the hub was still trying to engage and making that horrible grinding noise. They are telling me that there is not enough vacuum to pressure to keep that hub from trying to engage. They tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks. They said the vacuum reservoir was fine. The mechanics put a temporary fix on it for now, they capped the actuator. I have a Volant cold air intake which they suggested that i Put back on the stock intake to give it more resistance to create more vacuum??? DOES THIS MAKE ANY SENSE, CAN ANYBODY RELATE TO THIS? So as of now I am trying to find a used stock intake for my ford. Just seems strange because ALOT of people have cold air intakes and the dealership in just lost trying to figure out why i dont have enough vacuum to hold open the hubs.
So I had a grinding noise coming from my front end or below the cab so I took it to a transmission shop. They said everything is fine, transmission, transfer case, u joints, all ok. So my next step is I took it to the dealership. They found out that my front right hub was trying to engage while I was driving, usually at higher speeds, or all the time while I was towing something. I saw the old hub the teeth were all chipped and damaged. So they replaced that and they also replace some vacuum hub thingmajigger actuator that works with the four-wheel drive and the hub. They found out that the hub was still trying to engage and making that horrible grinding noise. They are telling me that there is not enough vacuum to pressure to keep that hub from trying to engage. They tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks. They said the vacuum reservoir was fine. The mechanics put a temporary fix on it for now, they capped the actuator. I have a Volant cold air intake which they suggested that i Put back on the stock intake to give it more resistance to create more vacuum??? DOES THIS MAKE ANY SENSE, CAN ANYBODY RELATE TO THIS? So as of now I am trying to find a used stock intake for my ford. Just seems strange because ALOT of people have cold air intakes and the dealership in just lost trying to figure out why i dont have enough vacuum to hold open the hubs.
10-28-2012, 07:25 PM
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trying to solve the front hub noise (goes away whe switching to fwd.
I've seen a million questions about the clicking/ratcheting griding noise in the front hubs on 04-08 f-150s - so I'll try to save people some money. It is caused by loss of vacuum which is nedeed to keep the 4x4 actuator disengaged when in 2wd. Before anyone tells you to replace any iwe actuators or hubs, try this: Pop out the battery, disconnect the two (integrated) vacuum lines from the solenoid on the passenger side firewall, take out the battery tray and vacuum reservoir attached to it. Submerge the reservoir in water with the inlet plugged to see if there are bubbles...jiggle it around (some little bits of air will get trapped in the features of the box)...confirm it is air tight. Then plug up the three disconnected vacuum lines with golf tees(two at the solenoid and one at the reservoir), now unhook one of the dual integrated vacuum lines at the wheel end, plug the smaller vent line and blow through the bigger line, it will tell you where the leak is if there is one. If you put it all back together and still have the problem, replace the solenoid ($25), newer models have a little rain shield, ford is definitely notorious for putting water sensitive things in dumb places (like ECMs!) If that doesn't help, remove the front wheel, pop off the dustcap and wheel nut, take off the three nuts which hold the actuator on the back, remove the tie rod end (steering) and the upper a-arm ball joint nut. Whack the knuckle free of the upper ball joint and swing out of the way and you can get the actuator off. compress the spring down and put your finger over the fitting (one is just a vent) if it decompresses, it's hooped. 80 bucks a side. Cheers, Pip
First off my truck-2004 F-150 Supercrew 4x4 4'' lift 35X12.5 58000 miles Volant cold air intake Flowmaster muffler
So I had a grinding noise coming from my front end or below the cab so I took it to a transmission shop. They said everything is fine, transmission, transfer case, u joints, all ok. So my next step is I took it to the dealership. They found out that my front right hub was trying to engage while I was driving, usually at higher speeds, or all the time while I was towing something. I saw the old hub the teeth were all chipped and damaged. So they replaced that and they also replace some vacuum hub thingmajigger actuator that works with the four-wheel drive and the hub. They found out that the hub was still trying to engage and making that horrible grinding noise. They are telling me that there is not enough vacuum to pressure to keep that hub from trying to engage. They tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks. They said the vacuum reservoir was fine. The mechanics put a temporary fix on it for now, they capped the actuator. I have a Volant cold air intake which they suggested that i Put back on the stock intake to give it more resistance to create more vacuum??? DOES THIS MAKE ANY SENSE, CAN ANYBODY RELATE TO THIS? So as of now I am trying to find a used stock intake for my ford. Just seems strange because ALOT of people have cold air intakes and the dealership in just lost trying to figure out why i dont have enough vacuum to hold open the hubs.
So I had a grinding noise coming from my front end or below the cab so I took it to a transmission shop. They said everything is fine, transmission, transfer case, u joints, all ok. So my next step is I took it to the dealership. They found out that my front right hub was trying to engage while I was driving, usually at higher speeds, or all the time while I was towing something. I saw the old hub the teeth were all chipped and damaged. So they replaced that and they also replace some vacuum hub thingmajigger actuator that works with the four-wheel drive and the hub. They found out that the hub was still trying to engage and making that horrible grinding noise. They are telling me that there is not enough vacuum to pressure to keep that hub from trying to engage. They tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks. They said the vacuum reservoir was fine. The mechanics put a temporary fix on it for now, they capped the actuator. I have a Volant cold air intake which they suggested that i Put back on the stock intake to give it more resistance to create more vacuum??? DOES THIS MAKE ANY SENSE, CAN ANYBODY RELATE TO THIS? So as of now I am trying to find a used stock intake for my ford. Just seems strange because ALOT of people have cold air intakes and the dealership in just lost trying to figure out why i dont have enough vacuum to hold open the hubs.
10-29-2012, 06:18 AM
#16
Uberhater,Troll,Whatever
^what he said, with some pictures and tool list;
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html
Oh, the type of air intake should make no difference to the 4WD vacuum system.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html
Oh, the type of air intake should make no difference to the 4WD vacuum system.
03-27-2013, 10:42 PM
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my 4hi will blink on then blink off, although my 4lo will engage and work like normal. Took to ford dealer they said it was the solenoid located on the firewall because of water damage. Gave permission for part to be changed. Got in vehicle and headed home, and next day got in truck and put into 4hi and problem is started all over. any ideas
03-28-2013, 10:48 PM
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f150 hubs
if they replaced the solenoid, the only other elements are to check the vacuum box under the battery tray, and the lines themselves. Ask them if they checked there was the correct vacuum at the solenoid - that will eliminate a lot of possibilities.
03-29-2013, 08:43 AM
#19
Mark
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my 4hi will blink on then blink off, although my 4lo will engage and work like normal. Took to ford dealer they said it was the solenoid located on the firewall because of water damage. Gave permission for part to be changed. Got in vehicle and headed home, and next day got in truck and put into 4hi and problem is started all over. any ideas
02-24-2014, 12:46 PM
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I've seen a million questions about the clicking/ratcheting griding noise in the front hubs on 04-08 f-150s - so I'll try to save people some money. It is caused by loss of vacuum which is nedeed to keep the 4x4 actuator disengaged when in 2wd. Before anyone tells you to replace any iwe actuators or hubs, try this: Pop out the battery, disconnect the two (integrated) vacuum lines from the solenoid on the passenger side firewall, take out the battery tray and vacuum reservoir attached to it. Submerge the reservoir in water with the inlet plugged to see if there are bubbles...jiggle it around (some little bits of air will get trapped in the features of the box)...confirm it is air tight. Then plug up the three disconnected vacuum lines with golf tees(two at the solenoid and one at the reservoir), now unhook one of the dual integrated vacuum lines at the wheel end, plug the smaller vent line and blow through the bigger line, it will tell you where the leak is if there is one. If you put it all back together and still have the problem, replace the solenoid ($25), newer models have a little rain shield, ford is definitely notorious for putting water sensitive things in dumb places (like ECMs!) If that doesn't help, remove the front wheel, pop off the dustcap and wheel nut, take off the three nuts which hold the actuator on the back, remove the tie rod end (steering) and the upper a-arm ball joint nut. Whack the knuckle free of the upper ball joint and swing out of the way and you can get the actuator off. compress the spring down and put your finger over the fitting (one is just a vent) if it decompresses, it's hooped. 80 bucks a side. Cheers, Pip
Fishhunter:
Thank you so much for your write up. I replaced the vacuum solenoid as you stated and it fixed the problem. The new vacuum solenoid with the rain hood from the Ford parts counter cost me $50.00 dollars. Thanks again for your advise, it saved me a lot of money and heartache!!