newbie owner, old truck, priority list
03-18-2019, 11:19 PM
#1
newbie owner, old truck, priority list
Hey y'all, First thank you for your shared wisdom. I'm new owner of a 2005 F150 Lariat 4x4 5.4.
The seller was very sketchy on the truck's history... he bought it 'a few month's ago from a buddy who was in financial trouble'... I only continued the conversation because the truck starts quickly, runs strong, shifts smoothly and the body is in good shape. All lights and power accessories work except the bumper proximity sensors (probably due to slight gash in rear bumper), no signs of wreck or repairs, small area of rust in back of rear wheel wells. Aftermarket Pioneer stereo works. Leather seats are worn but in decent shape.
I took it to a reputable mechanic, with the seller in tow, who pointed out the leaky transmission. The $65 I paid the mechanic, helped knock $1600 off the purchase price. The mechanic said the engine had been replaced and the current engine 'looks good, may be a Jasper'. He wasn't sure about the transmission, but he warned 'F150 transmissions come and go, it may only last a month, or it may last a year, but it's leaking for a reason, so I'd best keep an eye on it'. And 'someone has topped up the fluid, it's Full'.
I called Jasper who said the VIN was not registered with them, so they could not say it's one of their engines. The seller said his buddy did the engine swap 'about a year ago' but he didn't know where the engine came from or how many miles. The current odometer has 280,000, but he said he'd swapped that too because the speedo quit, and the previous odometer had about 250,000 miles. I'm guessing the engine came from a junk yard and has 80,000 to 150,000 miles (just because the mechanic said it looks good), but who knows! The engine sticker on the side states: 11-01-04 54L Ford Windsor Ontario Canada. The seller said 'I put a new battery in it' (a gleaming low-price parts store special) - the mechanic said 'the battery swap probably cleared any codes'. How convenient, right?
The truck has many signs of neglect (shocks, brake pads, air filter). The Falken Wildpeak (available at Walmart) tires have a good amount of tread (70%?), but are cupped due to worn out shocks, which gives the truck a bumpy, vibrating ride. I first changed the air filter - it was a squirrel's nest inside. If you're still reading, you may be thinking 'why did he buy this truck?' My thinking is: based on what I paid for it, I can put a $1000 into it and I'm still below 'fair market value' and hopefully get a few good years out it.
Not knowing for certain the history, I've been checking the oil and transmission fluid level every other day and I keep a quart of Mercon V in the console. I have not added any. The level has stayed the same - 1/4 to 1/8 inch above the high mark on the stick. Is this 'dangerously high'? The drip the mechanic was pointed out is much less, there's still a hanging drop, but it's only leaving a quarter size spot on the driveway. The first few days it had three hanging drops and left a pancake size circle every night. I've driven it about 200 miles over 10 days. I've come to the conclusion it was overfilled. I don't think it healed itself.
I replaced the paper thin rear brake pads, all four shocks and upper control arms. Next I plan to: check engine codes then change coil packs or boots, new plugs, clean throttle body and maf sensor, change air filter, fuel filter, oil & filter. Then change the brake fluid, flush and replace the coolant (now green, change to orange), transmission fluid and filter, differentials oil and transfer case. Belt and hoses look ok. What else? Proactively change the VCT solenoids, or wait for a sign?
What to do about the tires? The new shocks smoothed out the ride some, but the tires are still vibrating and I don't want to wear out my new shocks. I've found a couple of tire shops around here which do 'tire tuning' or 'tire grinding' for $25-$30 per tire, so I'm thinking of having that done. I may lose half the remaining tread, but I'll get a year or two out of them without the vibration, vs. go ahead and buy 4 new tires. Any other options?
Thanks in advance.
The seller was very sketchy on the truck's history... he bought it 'a few month's ago from a buddy who was in financial trouble'... I only continued the conversation because the truck starts quickly, runs strong, shifts smoothly and the body is in good shape. All lights and power accessories work except the bumper proximity sensors (probably due to slight gash in rear bumper), no signs of wreck or repairs, small area of rust in back of rear wheel wells. Aftermarket Pioneer stereo works. Leather seats are worn but in decent shape.
I took it to a reputable mechanic, with the seller in tow, who pointed out the leaky transmission. The $65 I paid the mechanic, helped knock $1600 off the purchase price. The mechanic said the engine had been replaced and the current engine 'looks good, may be a Jasper'. He wasn't sure about the transmission, but he warned 'F150 transmissions come and go, it may only last a month, or it may last a year, but it's leaking for a reason, so I'd best keep an eye on it'. And 'someone has topped up the fluid, it's Full'.
I called Jasper who said the VIN was not registered with them, so they could not say it's one of their engines. The seller said his buddy did the engine swap 'about a year ago' but he didn't know where the engine came from or how many miles. The current odometer has 280,000, but he said he'd swapped that too because the speedo quit, and the previous odometer had about 250,000 miles. I'm guessing the engine came from a junk yard and has 80,000 to 150,000 miles (just because the mechanic said it looks good), but who knows! The engine sticker on the side states: 11-01-04 54L Ford Windsor Ontario Canada. The seller said 'I put a new battery in it' (a gleaming low-price parts store special) - the mechanic said 'the battery swap probably cleared any codes'. How convenient, right?
The truck has many signs of neglect (shocks, brake pads, air filter). The Falken Wildpeak (available at Walmart) tires have a good amount of tread (70%?), but are cupped due to worn out shocks, which gives the truck a bumpy, vibrating ride. I first changed the air filter - it was a squirrel's nest inside. If you're still reading, you may be thinking 'why did he buy this truck?' My thinking is: based on what I paid for it, I can put a $1000 into it and I'm still below 'fair market value' and hopefully get a few good years out it.
Not knowing for certain the history, I've been checking the oil and transmission fluid level every other day and I keep a quart of Mercon V in the console. I have not added any. The level has stayed the same - 1/4 to 1/8 inch above the high mark on the stick. Is this 'dangerously high'? The drip the mechanic was pointed out is much less, there's still a hanging drop, but it's only leaving a quarter size spot on the driveway. The first few days it had three hanging drops and left a pancake size circle every night. I've driven it about 200 miles over 10 days. I've come to the conclusion it was overfilled. I don't think it healed itself.
I replaced the paper thin rear brake pads, all four shocks and upper control arms. Next I plan to: check engine codes then change coil packs or boots, new plugs, clean throttle body and maf sensor, change air filter, fuel filter, oil & filter. Then change the brake fluid, flush and replace the coolant (now green, change to orange), transmission fluid and filter, differentials oil and transfer case. Belt and hoses look ok. What else? Proactively change the VCT solenoids, or wait for a sign?
What to do about the tires? The new shocks smoothed out the ride some, but the tires are still vibrating and I don't want to wear out my new shocks. I've found a couple of tire shops around here which do 'tire tuning' or 'tire grinding' for $25-$30 per tire, so I'm thinking of having that done. I may lose half the remaining tread, but I'll get a year or two out of them without the vibration, vs. go ahead and buy 4 new tires. Any other options?
Thanks in advance.
03-20-2019, 08:12 AM
#2
a good primer... https://www.f150forum.com/f4/new-use...her-qs-437212/
I would replace the foam around the air box (mine looked good but disintegrated upon touch...I would give your gas tank a double dose of Chevron Techron Complete System Cleaner or similar cleaner with PEA (NOT the fuel injector cleaner)...I would inspect the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) under the spare tire...a common failure item...plenty on here about changing spark plugs (use Motorcraft only) and change the oil and filter (seems Motorcraft are the best filters and are about $3.50 or so)...I'd use full synthetic in whatever weight (I use 5w20) you feel good about knowing you take responsibility for your choice
Good luck and enjoy
Bill
I would replace the foam around the air box (mine looked good but disintegrated upon touch...I would give your gas tank a double dose of Chevron Techron Complete System Cleaner or similar cleaner with PEA (NOT the fuel injector cleaner)...I would inspect the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) under the spare tire...a common failure item...plenty on here about changing spark plugs (use Motorcraft only) and change the oil and filter (seems Motorcraft are the best filters and are about $3.50 or so)...I'd use full synthetic in whatever weight (I use 5w20) you feel good about knowing you take responsibility for your choice
Good luck and enjoy
Bill
Last edited by SilverSport; 03-20-2019 at 09:33 AM.
The following users liked this post:
AtlantaBill (03-20-2019)
The following users liked this post:
AtlantaBill (03-20-2019)
03-20-2019, 08:52 AM
#4
Member
Take it piece by piece; these trucks (engines particular) can be quite needy if neglected. You're on the right track with all fluid changes. When doing the front diff, you'll find no gasket on it or listed, but the gasket from the 8.8 rear diff fits perfectly. Use 75w-140 full syn for the rear. Mercon (not V) or Mercon XL12 for the transfer case.
I'd drop the trans pan, change the filter. Check the color/smell of the fluid. See if a few drain and fills are needed, perhaps buying a pan with a drain plug to make it easier in the future. Towards the end of that, a bottle of Lubeguard Red if you notice any transmission issues.
Pull the VCTs, clean out with some Brakleen. With them out, look inside the valve cover (preferably with a boroscope) to look for sludge build up, so see if you need to do some frequent oil changes with MMO.
Pull plugs, check their condition, and just go ahead and get new ones, plugs are cheap, and after the time to remove them, no reason to put old ones back in.
I used 1/4" window seal foam tape to replace the foam on the air filter drawer in the airbox.
Replace the rotted vacuum line from the fuel tank vapor solenoid (I forget the actual name) by the brake booster that runs behind the airbox to the passenger side of the intake. Check all lines, actually, including PCV o-rings.
For the price, I'd put a new IWE solenoid in as preventive maintenance (located on the firewall behind the battery, can't miss it) and check its vacuum lines.
I'd drop the trans pan, change the filter. Check the color/smell of the fluid. See if a few drain and fills are needed, perhaps buying a pan with a drain plug to make it easier in the future. Towards the end of that, a bottle of Lubeguard Red if you notice any transmission issues.
Pull the VCTs, clean out with some Brakleen. With them out, look inside the valve cover (preferably with a boroscope) to look for sludge build up, so see if you need to do some frequent oil changes with MMO.
Pull plugs, check their condition, and just go ahead and get new ones, plugs are cheap, and after the time to remove them, no reason to put old ones back in.
I used 1/4" window seal foam tape to replace the foam on the air filter drawer in the airbox.
Replace the rotted vacuum line from the fuel tank vapor solenoid (I forget the actual name) by the brake booster that runs behind the airbox to the passenger side of the intake. Check all lines, actually, including PCV o-rings.
For the price, I'd put a new IWE solenoid in as preventive maintenance (located on the firewall behind the battery, can't miss it) and check its vacuum lines.
The following users liked this post:
AtlantaBill (03-20-2019)
03-20-2019, 08:56 AM
#5
Take it piece by piece; these trucks (engines particular) can be quite needy if neglected. You're on the right track with all fluid changes. When doing the front diff, you'll find no gasket on it or listed, but the gasket from the 8.8 rear diff fits perfectly. Use 75w-140 full syn for the rear. Mercon (not V) or Mercon XL12 for the transfer case.
I'd drop the trans pan, change the filter. Check the color/smell of the fluid. See if a few drain and fills are needed, perhaps buying a pan with a drain plug to make it easier in the future. Towards the end of that, a bottle of Lubeguard Red if you notice any transmission issues.
Pull the VCTs, clean out with some Brakleen. With them out, look inside the valve cover (preferably with a boroscope) to look for sludge build up, so see if you need to do some frequent oil changes with MMO.
Pull plugs, check their condition, and just go ahead and get new ones, plugs are cheap, and after the time to remove them, no reason to put old ones back in.
I used 1/4" window seal foam tape to replace the foam on the air filter drawer in the airbox.
Replace the rotted vacuum line from the fuel tank vapor solenoid (I forget the actual name) by the brake booster that runs behind the airbox to the passenger side of the intake. Check all lines, actually, including PCV o-rings.
For the price, I'd put a new IWE solenoid in as preventive maintenance (located on the firewall behind the battery, can't miss it) and check its vacuum lines.
I'd drop the trans pan, change the filter. Check the color/smell of the fluid. See if a few drain and fills are needed, perhaps buying a pan with a drain plug to make it easier in the future. Towards the end of that, a bottle of Lubeguard Red if you notice any transmission issues.
Pull the VCTs, clean out with some Brakleen. With them out, look inside the valve cover (preferably with a boroscope) to look for sludge build up, so see if you need to do some frequent oil changes with MMO.
Pull plugs, check their condition, and just go ahead and get new ones, plugs are cheap, and after the time to remove them, no reason to put old ones back in.
I used 1/4" window seal foam tape to replace the foam on the air filter drawer in the airbox.
Replace the rotted vacuum line from the fuel tank vapor solenoid (I forget the actual name) by the brake booster that runs behind the airbox to the passenger side of the intake. Check all lines, actually, including PCV o-rings.
For the price, I'd put a new IWE solenoid in as preventive maintenance (located on the firewall behind the battery, can't miss it) and check its vacuum lines.
03-20-2019, 11:41 AM
#6
Member
https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/...on-fluids.html
03-20-2019, 11:44 AM
#7
You can still buy it. A quick google search shows several vendors online still selling their XL12 stock, and Advance still carries Mercon (not V), albeit under the "Carquest" label. Can't use Mercon V in the transfer case, and according to Motorcraft's website, LV isn't to be used in transfer cases either. The website lists "Motorcraft Transfer Case Fluid," without the XL12 name... perhaps the latest and greatest iteration?
https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/...on-fluids.html
https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/...on-fluids.html
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03-21-2019, 11:19 AM
#10
Member
Because there have been cases of transfer cases exploding when used with Mercon V. The motorcraft fluid website explicitly says not to be used in transfer cases, as it does for LV; our favorite Ford expert, Ford Tech Makuloco, says the same thing. I like to defer to the official documents on things like this. Fortunately, you may be an outlier.