New Spark Plugs!!!
#11
It's Time
We'll I've been putting off the plunge like everyone else but with 155k on factory I think the time has come. Ran a can of seafoam on last tank gonna hit it again and run through intake as well. Spark plugs and removal tool arrived from Summit today so no more excuses. Will keep everyone posted of outcome
#12
We'll I've been putting off the plunge like everyone else but with 155k on factory I think the time has come. Ran a can of seafoam on last tank gonna hit it again and run through intake as well. Spark plugs and removal tool arrived from Summit today so no more excuses. Will keep everyone posted of outcome
#14
Ok. Here's the company that makes the penetrating lubricant he used on my plugs. They make a bunch if stuff.
http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/specialty/
http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/specialty/
#15
We'll I've been putting off the plunge like everyone else but with 155k on factory I think the time has come. Ran a can of seafoam on last tank gonna hit it again and run through intake as well. Spark plugs and removal tool arrived from Summit today so no more excuses. Will keep everyone posted of outcome
Sorry - Seafoam won't do squat. Nothing in it's MSDS will touch carbon ( pale oil, naptha, and IPA )
http://www.mta.ca/administration/fac...Co.%202010.pdf
And running it through the intake just pekkers yer O2's and cats, and still won't touch the carbon on the plugs. Well documented.
Want to hear something even more damning? It's the same formula that's in their Trans-Tune product! WTF? (See MSDS). What idiot would put this crap in their tranny???? Just say 'No'.
Most savvy folks run a couple Techron treatments in the tank before a change. This actually Does work.
-Ford's current R&R interval on these plugs is 60K.
-If not in hurry - use manual tools and take yer time.
-Current TSB specifies MC Carb cleaner as the solvent of choice.
-Solvent in the well will do nothing unless you crack the plugs a 1/16 of a turn or less to break the gas seal - it won't wick down to where it needs to be otherwise.
-Always recommend new boots and springs.
-Dielectric grease in boot - sparingly - not on connector tip
-Hi-temp nickel anti-seize on ground shield ( sparingly - too much and it can migrate down and foul the tip).
-No A/S on the threads necessary as MC SP515's are nickel-plated.
-Torque to 25 ft-lbs dry.
-Oil change after job is done to get excess solvent that may have made it to the crankcase outta there.
Done several of these trucks - have not broken one yet. Low & Slow - out/in, out/in little by little seems to work just fine fer me ...
BTW - I'm different - I use Champ 7989's and R&R my plugs every 30-50K. With a 1-piece plug, it's cake.
To JCooper - glad you got it done! What a relief, eh? lol
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 01-24-2014 at 09:36 AM.
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#16
I just did my plugs about 500 miles ago. Broke 2 plugs. I tried my impact (19.2v Craftsman) and it wouldnt touch #1 plug so I switched over to my 1/2" drive socket and worked it back and forth until it came out. The ones that broke, broke on initial pressure when I was trying to crack them to get WD40(yes the penetrant not the standard WD40). So that makes me think that if they are gonna break they are gonna break. The ones that did come out made gnarly noise the whole time even though they had what I would consider VERY little carbon built up on them. Ran 2 bottles of techron in a take for 3 tanks. I also always run E10 Fuel, so I wonder if that had anything to do with such little carbon buildup.
I can not confirm this, just a suspicision. Though my buddy who only ran Premium from the Shell station had a TON of buildup with about 15k less miles than me and we have very similar driving conditions, habits, etc. We just did his plugs this last weekend and broke 6 of 8 (of course it was the back 3 cyl on each side that broke) and they were darn near black from the threads down.
I can not confirm this, just a suspicision. Though my buddy who only ran Premium from the Shell station had a TON of buildup with about 15k less miles than me and we have very similar driving conditions, habits, etc. We just did his plugs this last weekend and broke 6 of 8 (of course it was the back 3 cyl on each side that broke) and they were darn near black from the threads down.
#17
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I just don't see how cracking a plug and letting it soak is going to stop a seized plug from breaking.. When you go to "crack" the plug for a soak, you are very likely breaking the plug at this point (if its going to break).. If it was an issue with the threads, and not the body of the plug, then yes I could see how a soaking would work well, but it's not..
I've done 2 3v motors. An 04 and an 05.. Both on a hot motor, 1 with the aid of a wet soak and crack method.. After the first 2 "crack and soak" plugs came out by hand, I switched over to the cordless impact and was done with the rest in less then an hour. This is on the 05 with factory "breakable" plugs.. All the plug wells did have a shot of kroil for good measure..
Recently on my 04, I opted to just do the hot motor with my ridged X4 impact and no soak.. Every plug I started with a couple bumps of the trigger, then a slow zip of the impact to back it out.. Not a single break with over 100,000 miles on the second set of plugs..
IMHO.... When it comes to breakable plugs, a HOT motor, with the careful use of an impact, will be the best chance you have got at a break free plug change.
I think its also fair to mention that I do run techron from time to time. But more importantly, I drive my truck quite a bit, sometimes over 100 miles a day or more. So I know that my cylinder heads get hot enough on a regular basis to help prevent excessive carbon build up...
I've done 2 3v motors. An 04 and an 05.. Both on a hot motor, 1 with the aid of a wet soak and crack method.. After the first 2 "crack and soak" plugs came out by hand, I switched over to the cordless impact and was done with the rest in less then an hour. This is on the 05 with factory "breakable" plugs.. All the plug wells did have a shot of kroil for good measure..
Recently on my 04, I opted to just do the hot motor with my ridged X4 impact and no soak.. Every plug I started with a couple bumps of the trigger, then a slow zip of the impact to back it out.. Not a single break with over 100,000 miles on the second set of plugs..
IMHO.... When it comes to breakable plugs, a HOT motor, with the careful use of an impact, will be the best chance you have got at a break free plug change.
I think its also fair to mention that I do run techron from time to time. But more importantly, I drive my truck quite a bit, sometimes over 100 miles a day or more. So I know that my cylinder heads get hot enough on a regular basis to help prevent excessive carbon build up...
#18
I just don't see how cracking a plug and letting it soak is going to stop a seized plug from breaking.. When you go to "crack" the plug for a soak, you are very likely breaking the plug at this point (if its going to break).. If it was an issue with the threads, and not the body of the plug, then yes I could see how a soaking would work well, but it's not..
I've done 2 3v motors. An 04 and an 05.. Both on a hot motor, 1 with the aid of a wet soak and crack method.. After the first 2 "crack and soak" plugs came out by hand, I switched over to the cordless impact and was done with the rest in less then an hour. This is on the 05 with factory "breakable" plugs.. All the plug wells did have a shot of kroil for good measure..
Recently on my 04, I opted to just do the hot motor with my ridged X4 impact and no soak.. Every plug I started with a couple bumps of the trigger, then a slow zip of the impact to back it out.. Not a single break with over 100,000 miles on the second set of plugs..
IMHO.... When it comes to breakable plugs, a HOT motor, with the careful use of an impact, will be the best chance you have got at a break free plug change.
I think its also fair to mention that I do run techron from time to time. But more importantly, I drive my truck quite a bit, sometimes over 100 miles a day or more. So I know that my cylinder heads get hot enough on a regular basis to help prevent excessive carbon build up...
I've done 2 3v motors. An 04 and an 05.. Both on a hot motor, 1 with the aid of a wet soak and crack method.. After the first 2 "crack and soak" plugs came out by hand, I switched over to the cordless impact and was done with the rest in less then an hour. This is on the 05 with factory "breakable" plugs.. All the plug wells did have a shot of kroil for good measure..
Recently on my 04, I opted to just do the hot motor with my ridged X4 impact and no soak.. Every plug I started with a couple bumps of the trigger, then a slow zip of the impact to back it out.. Not a single break with over 100,000 miles on the second set of plugs..
IMHO.... When it comes to breakable plugs, a HOT motor, with the careful use of an impact, will be the best chance you have got at a break free plug change.
I think its also fair to mention that I do run techron from time to time. But more importantly, I drive my truck quite a bit, sometimes over 100 miles a day or more. So I know that my cylinder heads get hot enough on a regular basis to help prevent excessive carbon build up...
Allow me to clarify - when I say 'cracking', I mean by the smallest possible degree - just enough to break the gas seal - the penetrant/carbon-softener in the carb cleaner will then be able to wick down and reduce the adhesion over time. Sometimes multiple application is needed. (which is why an oil change is a REAL good idea, as well as cranking the thing over with plugs removed to blow out any trapped fluid - dang stuff is incompressible, lol)
My premise is simple - even if the ground shield - which remember is a press-fit / crimp, not a weld - does move a wee bit intially during the cracking process because of carbon bonding it to the plug bore, the torque necessary to facilitate removal will be drastically reduced by the solvent's action to a point where the crimp's hold on the shield is greater than the bonding force. And out they come.
I do not doubt the impact method works for some - I just choose to do these by hand ( 10 trucks so far, no breakage, but all under 100K ), as I'm not in a rush, and am frankly disinclined to risk a head thread strip-out.
and - I choose not to recommend it as it can be interpreted in so many ways - some feller is liable to pull out his 1/2" air tool does not have or wants to but a small electric impact), sinka a few brewskies, yell YeeeHAAA, run it a max pressure and then wonder WTF happened, lol. Ouch.
For me - the 'tactile feel' of this task as perfomed with hand tools gives me the feedback I need to succeed. So far. Of course, now you've jinxed me
Sir - good discussion - which is what this forum is all aboot! Thanks!
Cheers to all
Regards;
MGD
#19
I just had the plugs replace in my 07 f150 with the 5.4... I ran two bottles of lucas through the same tank of gas. Went through a good half tank before taking it to the garage. Didn't break a single plug.
#20
MGD,
Thanks for the great info switched to Techron had been planning on changing with a hot motor, anyone know life expectancies of the injectors and coilpacks, just thinking while I have it apart if I should consider changing.
Thanks for the great info switched to Techron had been planning on changing with a hot motor, anyone know life expectancies of the injectors and coilpacks, just thinking while I have it apart if I should consider changing.