ShirBlackspots

One final word, watching this video that explains all the issues with a 5.4L 3 valve, and the F-150 in general, at 11:48, its a crate engine 3 valve... with cast iron chain tensioners. BTW, as much as you claim they don't belong in the 3 valve, Jasper has them in their rebuilt 3 valve (they also add the Melling oil pumps).

BigTerp

No worries on the thread derailment. Very interesting and informative discussion!!

I have zero reason to believe I have any timing issues currently. No symptoms as of know, but it's good to know how to address them when they do eventually come up.

I checked my trans fluid yesterday evening. Completely full and great color. I wouldn't be surprised if it was very recently changed. Would you all still recommend a pan drop and fluid change at 60,000? If not, at what mileage should I tackle it? Apparently the hard shift from first to second is a common occurrence with these trucks and nothing to be concerned about, which makes me feel at ease. Cause man that tranny can really slam into second!!

What air filter do you guys recommend other that the drop in K&N? I've used those in my trucks for years, but if I'm ignorant on their disadvantages I'm certainly open to trashing it for something better.

This truck also has the rear end chatter in turns at low speeds. The friction modifier in the rear end completely solved that issue with my '07. Need to get some into this truck as well. Might as well change out the rear diff fluid while I'm at it, right?

Thanks again for all the help, advice, discussion, etc., etc. Much appreciated!!!

nathan3306

Drop your spare tire and take a look at you fuel pump driving module (FPDM). They have bad corrosion problems since it was attached directly to the frame. If the back of the module looks fine, grab some spacers and longer bolts to lift it away from the frame to reduce the chance of any further corrosion.

If you have a 4x4, you may also want to go ahead and look into getting the updated IWE solenoid actuator.... can't remember what the proper name of that darn thing. Anyways, it's located under the hood at the firewall, by the ECM. Easy install and prevents moisture/water from entering the solenoid.

When doing the timing, even on the 04, you do not have to remove the refrigerant in the AC lines. It's a pain but I was able to get just enough room without disconnecting them. You need a few extra hands but it can be done without damaging the lines. Man, that job was a pita.... I still have flashbacks.

You had an 07 before hand, just keep on top of oil changes, FL820S MC oil filter, 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil, and drive the **** outta it. I change my tranny fluid (replaced tranny pan w/dorman that has a drain bolt) every time MC Mercon V is on sale at Amazon. It's usually about 31 bucks.

I ran the KN filter for a few years and saw little to no results other than saving some money by not replacing the filter. I've gone back to MC filters and will stay there. I believe it provide far better protection and in my environment, that is drastically needed.

I would change the front and rear differential fluids. The front doesn't need friction modifier but the rear may need it if you have the LSD. Amazon is where I get the friction modifier and I used Valvoline for the fluid. Get one of those siphon fluid suckers and use it to suck the fluid from the front diff and replenish with new fluid. Much easier than taking the cover off.

There is a way for you to reset the ECM so that truck has to "learn" how to drive again. Do a search for that to see the proper way but if I remember correctly, you can disconnect the battery, touch the positive and negative leads together for a little bit and that will completely drain any stored energy in the truck's system. It'll have to re-learn everything other than the odometer. Like I said, search for that one first. I don't want to be giving bad advice and screwing your truck up.

ShirBlackspots

Oh, yes. The FPDM is very important. Sitting above the tire, the aluminum body of the FPDM sitting right against the steel cross member turns that aluminum to dust. New FPDM's have standoffs to keep that galvanic corrosion from happening.

As for the transmission, Ford recommends doing full fluid changes every 30,000 miles under severe duty, and every 100,000 miles under normal usage. I just checked the transmission fluid last night (I don't think I've checked it in 10 years, or since I bought it in 2009), and the fluid is still it's nice clear red color and on the exact full spot on the dip stick. I have just about 98,500 miles on my truck. (The power steering fluid is a dark red -- Ford just uses transmission fluid in the power steering system)

The biggest thing I've been towing is a 9' trailer with a Husqvarna yard tractor for the last couple years. Soon, I'll start towing a 22-25' travel trailer that's around 3500-4500lbs, depending on what travel trailer the parents buy.

dukedkt442

Still monitor the replacement FPDMs with stand-offs; they don't prevent galvanic corrosion, they just slow it down some. The FPDM will still always be the sacrificial metal. The stand-offs do at least help keep debris from holding water on the top side of them.

BigTerp

Thanks again all!! Very informative and much appreciated. I think I'm going to do the following:

- Front/Rear diff oil change w/friction modifier for the rear
- New plugs
-Transmission fluid exchange (no flush) w/new filter
- Transfer case fluid change
- Check FPDM and replace if needed
- Keep my ears open for any timing issues

What's the deal with the 4x4 solenoied actuators? Are they a common part to fail? Is that what I'm looking for? https://www.1aauto.com/ford-lincoln-...kaAr9VEALw_wcB

I did the all of the above fluid changes and plugs to my '07 when I bought it with 44,000 miles. Gave me a nice reference point for future maintenance. That truck was pretty much trouble free for the next 100,000+ miles. Although I did need to rebuild the transmission at about 125,000 miles.

Eric Kleven

10w-30 semi-synth diesel oil and a pint of Marvel's Mystery Oil for a couple thousand miles. You'll know how dirty the engine is in 2-3,000 miles.

dukedkt442

In a nutshell... yes. I preventively replaced my '04 original with one from Advance, and it failed in a couple months, so I exchanged it under warranty. In hindsight, Rock Auto has the Motorcraft unit for $23 ($7 cheaper than the Advance unit). So definitely don't purchase the one you linked. Check the 4x4 hub [de]activation by jacking up each wheel, and spinning it with the engine running. The axle shouldn't spin with the engine running, but will with the engine off.

I second the MMO treatment for the engine.

Ford upped the spec on rear diff fluid to 75w-140, so that's what I put in. 75w-90 for the front. The front won't have a cover gasket, so get one for a Ford 8.8 rear diff. You don't have to remove any steering/suspension components to pull the cover even though it looks like you do. Any full synthetic will work, but I prefer Redline, and is what I stock on the shelf for BMW fluid changes. It comes with the LS additive in it, and between my F, 2 Silverados, a Ram 1500, my 442 and an M3, never had any LS chatter, so I'm confident the mix is fine.

Add this to the shopping list for the trans, it'll make future drain/fills 100x easier (after replacing the filter the first time).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...NQTVHEGTvZQG5s

If you order an FPDM, order it online from Advance and use their current 25% discount.

ShirBlackspots

Even with that 25% coupon, its about $20 cheaper to buy the exact same part from RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1432394&jsn=3 -- $55.79, and if you include the 5% coupon Rock Auto has if you have an account with them, that's $53 for the Dorman FPDM. At Advance, that's $78.74 for the exact same FPDM.

--EDIT--
The Dorman FPDM with standoffs is $137.54 at Advance, while at RockAuto, its the price I listed above, $55.79. The one that's $104.99 on Advance is the one without standoffs.

BigTerp

All sounds good.

Whats the deal with the MMO treatment? Does it help to clean up the crankshaft?

I was told I should consider changing oil in this particular truck every 3K miles due to its age. I always did my '07 every 5K per the manual recommendations. Planned on sticking to 5K with this truck as well, unless there is something to the every 3K I should consider?