New engine, new codes
Hi all, I’ve been reading in this forum for years and I finally decided to create an account.
I have a 2007 F-150 FX4 (5.4l 3v) and I’m looking to sell it but I ran into some issues… I recently completely rebuilt the engine and now after about 800-1,000 miles I’m getting timing codes P0022 & P0012. I know what these are and they are dreaded when it comes to timing… my question is how did I get them with such a new build? All timing components were replaced with OE Motorcraft parts, melling 360hv oil pump (80psi instead of factory 60psi) and while the block was tore down I had all oil and coolant ports cleaned thoroughly to ensure good oil flow. I’m experiencing no issues while driving when the engine is cold but after about 10 minutes of driving if I come to a red light or stop sign it sputters and dies (unless I give it gas). I’m completely stumped and I even tried disconnecting the VCT solenoids but unplugging them to see if that problem would go away per some advice I received and it did not correct the issue. All parts and sensors were replaced when the engine was rebuilt so I wouldn’t have the issue of reusing a old cam sensor and running into a issue like this.
if anyone could give me some information that would help lead to a fix, I would be forever grateful. I know there are many posts/threads in regards to these codes but saw nothing in regards to new engines with high output oil pumps and OEM products. With that being said if someone has a thread related to this specific issue then please redirect me as I have not found one with stalling out in a intersection. There are no noises, ticks, leaks or anything to speak of and I checked for vacuum leaks too.
I have a 2007 F-150 FX4 (5.4l 3v) and I’m looking to sell it but I ran into some issues… I recently completely rebuilt the engine and now after about 800-1,000 miles I’m getting timing codes P0022 & P0012. I know what these are and they are dreaded when it comes to timing… my question is how did I get them with such a new build? All timing components were replaced with OE Motorcraft parts, melling 360hv oil pump (80psi instead of factory 60psi) and while the block was tore down I had all oil and coolant ports cleaned thoroughly to ensure good oil flow. I’m experiencing no issues while driving when the engine is cold but after about 10 minutes of driving if I come to a red light or stop sign it sputters and dies (unless I give it gas). I’m completely stumped and I even tried disconnecting the VCT solenoids but unplugging them to see if that problem would go away per some advice I received and it did not correct the issue. All parts and sensors were replaced when the engine was rebuilt so I wouldn’t have the issue of reusing a old cam sensor and running into a issue like this.
if anyone could give me some information that would help lead to a fix, I would be forever grateful. I know there are many posts/threads in regards to these codes but saw nothing in regards to new engines with high output oil pumps and OEM products. With that being said if someone has a thread related to this specific issue then please redirect me as I have not found one with stalling out in a intersection. There are no noises, ticks, leaks or anything to speak of and I checked for vacuum leaks too.
I haven’t checked those but right after start up I noticed it was blowing chunks of the cat out of the tailpipe. Any thoughts about that?
If it turns out that you replace your cats take the old ones to a recycler. If the guts are still in them (and they are OEM) they are worth a couple of hundred dollars at least. Prices vary but they are worth a lot.
they are aftermarket Flowmaster cats. Would that make a difference?
The only aftermarket that I have recycled were from an Audi and I got $20 a piece. Some OEM Honda automobile cats bring $500 to $800 each, most domestic are between $200 and $400. Take them to a catalytic converter recycler not a scrap yard.
I got $0 for my f150 drivers side since it was empty, I installed new after market on drivers side. Previous owner must have rodded drivers side out. Passenger side is still OEM and working fine with 180,000 miles.
I got $0 for my f150 drivers side since it was empty, I installed new after market on drivers side. Previous owner must have rodded drivers side out. Passenger side is still OEM and working fine with 180,000 miles.





