Mystery Theater - 2004 F-150 5.4 Throttle Body Replacement Rough Idle only when Cold
12-02-2018, 08:11 PM
#1
Mystery Theater - 2004 F-150 5.4 Throttle Body Replacement Rough Idle only when Cold
2004 F-150 5.4 XLT 4x4 Extended Cab
111,000 Miles
Previously Airport Owned Truck
PROBLEM: Check Engine Light on Wrench Light On - Limp Mode, Low Throttle Power.
TEMP SOLUTION: Drive truck 5-7 miles in limp mode at 42 mph. Turn truck off. Go in gas station. Gas for 5 minutes. Turn truck on. Wrench light is off. Truck runs fine. Perfectly. No sounds. No rattles. No ticks. Purrs. And Hauls ***.
BACKGROUND: Three weeks ago I bought this truck as "running poorly" and had it towed home. No maintenance records were available. Both P2107 and P2110 codes. Newer motorcraft plugs were in it and had been replaced fairly recently. I replaced them with Platinum Autolite plug as I get these for next to nothing. I meticulously went though and checked all of the injector wiring, cleaned the plug bore holes, used dialectic grease and power washed the engine bay twice. I have replaced the large vacuum line that goes behind the motor and capped off a small broken vacuum line that goes from the top left part of the engine bay to the 4x4 unit. I will be properly repairing that line this week. I inspected looking for grounding issues, broken wires and I even checked both oxygen sensor wiring and they look just fine - like new.
THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT: A like new FoMoCo throttle body with a perfect 10 ohms of resistance to the motor was on the truck when purchased. It threw both P2107 and P2110 codes for throttle body sensor and the respective disable engine/limp mode. I did not know if the throttle body on the truck was a replacement OEM that had been recently put on or if it was the original and had just been cleaned. I don't know. Looking to start fresh and get a replacement on hand, I ordered an A-1 Cardone rebuilt from Rock Auto for $126 total and got it in two days. I installed the rebuilt and tested A-1 Cardone throttle body after I changed the plugs.
I put newer battery in and tricked charged the battery to full charge. I do not believe there are any noticeable vacuum leaks. This is a clean clean rust free Florida rig. The engine compartment is even very clean. The truck has a like new rebuilt alternator installed.I cleared the codes at least 5 times. SAME PROBLEM - Wrench Light, Check Engine Light, Limp Mode.
UPDATING/FASHING THE ECM? Not Possible
On one of many forums many folks solve the problem with the dealer flashing/updating the ECM with the latest software and they are off rolling. So I called up Rex who is a heck of a nice service manager in Palatka, Florida a the Beck Ford dealership. Rex has an 2007 just like mine. He knows this truck and the throttle body issues. For half price at $62.50 he says, "Sure Bud, let's flash the ECM and you'll be good to go." Half hour later the tech comes back and says the software is the latest and they're is nothing they can do. They cleared the codes on their end and I drive off with no charges.
This morning I start her up. Wrench light, Check Engine light and no/low power limp mode. Go to gas station 5 miles a way. Get $20 in gas. Get back in no wrench light and she hauls ***.
HELP PLEASE.
Oh, just had the oil changed. I noticed lots of gunk on the inside of the motor just below the throttle body. I have not Seafoamed this truck or used injector cleaner. I suspect the VCT solenoids are clogged and dirty but she purrs when she runs and I don't want to mess with anything I don't need to.
I hoped that by a long shot that somehow a low 0.4 volts from the battery might effect the initial potenitometer readings in the foot petal or something similar in the TBS throttle body sensor... but t was just as bad with a brand new battery with full charge.
It's not just rough idle when cold (Florida that means 75 right now) it's LIMP MODE. 45 mph max. 1600 rpm. As soon as you let the truck cool down- it's back to limp mode and wrench light on. :\
111,000 Miles
Previously Airport Owned Truck
PROBLEM: Check Engine Light on Wrench Light On - Limp Mode, Low Throttle Power.
TEMP SOLUTION: Drive truck 5-7 miles in limp mode at 42 mph. Turn truck off. Go in gas station. Gas for 5 minutes. Turn truck on. Wrench light is off. Truck runs fine. Perfectly. No sounds. No rattles. No ticks. Purrs. And Hauls ***.
BACKGROUND: Three weeks ago I bought this truck as "running poorly" and had it towed home. No maintenance records were available. Both P2107 and P2110 codes. Newer motorcraft plugs were in it and had been replaced fairly recently. I replaced them with Platinum Autolite plug as I get these for next to nothing. I meticulously went though and checked all of the injector wiring, cleaned the plug bore holes, used dialectic grease and power washed the engine bay twice. I have replaced the large vacuum line that goes behind the motor and capped off a small broken vacuum line that goes from the top left part of the engine bay to the 4x4 unit. I will be properly repairing that line this week. I inspected looking for grounding issues, broken wires and I even checked both oxygen sensor wiring and they look just fine - like new.
THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT: A like new FoMoCo throttle body with a perfect 10 ohms of resistance to the motor was on the truck when purchased. It threw both P2107 and P2110 codes for throttle body sensor and the respective disable engine/limp mode. I did not know if the throttle body on the truck was a replacement OEM that had been recently put on or if it was the original and had just been cleaned. I don't know. Looking to start fresh and get a replacement on hand, I ordered an A-1 Cardone rebuilt from Rock Auto for $126 total and got it in two days. I installed the rebuilt and tested A-1 Cardone throttle body after I changed the plugs.
I put newer battery in and tricked charged the battery to full charge. I do not believe there are any noticeable vacuum leaks. This is a clean clean rust free Florida rig. The engine compartment is even very clean. The truck has a like new rebuilt alternator installed.I cleared the codes at least 5 times. SAME PROBLEM - Wrench Light, Check Engine Light, Limp Mode.
UPDATING/FASHING THE ECM? Not Possible
On one of many forums many folks solve the problem with the dealer flashing/updating the ECM with the latest software and they are off rolling. So I called up Rex who is a heck of a nice service manager in Palatka, Florida a the Beck Ford dealership. Rex has an 2007 just like mine. He knows this truck and the throttle body issues. For half price at $62.50 he says, "Sure Bud, let's flash the ECM and you'll be good to go." Half hour later the tech comes back and says the software is the latest and they're is nothing they can do. They cleared the codes on their end and I drive off with no charges.
This morning I start her up. Wrench light, Check Engine light and no/low power limp mode. Go to gas station 5 miles a way. Get $20 in gas. Get back in no wrench light and she hauls ***.
HELP PLEASE.
Oh, just had the oil changed. I noticed lots of gunk on the inside of the motor just below the throttle body. I have not Seafoamed this truck or used injector cleaner. I suspect the VCT solenoids are clogged and dirty but she purrs when she runs and I don't want to mess with anything I don't need to.
I hoped that by a long shot that somehow a low 0.4 volts from the battery might effect the initial potenitometer readings in the foot petal or something similar in the TBS throttle body sensor... but t was just as bad with a brand new battery with full charge.
It's not just rough idle when cold (Florida that means 75 right now) it's LIMP MODE. 45 mph max. 1600 rpm. As soon as you let the truck cool down- it's back to limp mode and wrench light on. :\
Last edited by jefford; 12-03-2018 at 11:06 AM. Reason: more details
12-03-2018, 08:44 AM
#2
Direction? Suggestions?
I'll take any suggestions right now. Feel free to shoot from the hip.
Right now all I have is a installing a used PCM and having the dealer transfer/reprogram the current vin and mileage. This seems like a lot of work and expense when the truck performs fine when it has heated up.
I have no other course of action... Any suggestions or addition info is appreciated.
Right now all I have is a installing a used PCM and having the dealer transfer/reprogram the current vin and mileage. This seems like a lot of work and expense when the truck performs fine when it has heated up.
I have no other course of action... Any suggestions or addition info is appreciated.
Last edited by jefford; 12-03-2018 at 08:55 AM.
12-03-2018, 10:47 AM
#4
Hmm... okay. I appreciate the suggestion. This truck probably idled a lot and rarely drove over 30 MPH on the airport property. I'm not sure if that adds to the issue or not?
Is is possible as the truck runs fine when it is warmed up...?
Is is possible as the truck runs fine when it is warmed up...?
Last edited by jefford; 12-03-2018 at 10:58 AM.
