Looking for a start point on my 2004 Ford F150
04-02-2017, 08:13 AM
#21
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Shattered guides
Means you will have to pull oil pan and clean oil pickup screen it will be jammed full . Recommend new oil pump melling 340
or 360 amazon . Clean out VCT housings . Use old style metal ratcheting tensioners not new plastic ones --amazon . use only OEM phasors . Note all gaskets get RTV sealant on metal joints (You can feel them with you finger nail }and on crank seal key way .
I personally had to change all rollers and lash adjusters . All cam parts must go back exactly how they came out ,mark them and lay them out in order .
I bought most of my stuff from OEM select on ebay . $798 for timing set ,$265 for new rollers/lash adjusters .
or 360 amazon . Clean out VCT housings . Use old style metal ratcheting tensioners not new plastic ones --amazon . use only OEM phasors . Note all gaskets get RTV sealant on metal joints (You can feel them with you finger nail }and on crank seal key way .
I personally had to change all rollers and lash adjusters . All cam parts must go back exactly how they came out ,mark them and lay them out in order .
I bought most of my stuff from OEM select on ebay . $798 for timing set ,$265 for new rollers/lash adjusters .
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Herman Gilmore (04-02-2017)
04-02-2017, 08:36 AM
#22
I set my timing up before removing anything, that way it is close to timing point . . The purpose of lifting cams is not to bend a valve when moving crankshaft . Once the chains are off, all sync is removed between cams /valves and pistons that are attached to crank .
If both cams are lifted then no valves are pushed down so no bending . So next you have to set cam lobes on both sides to this close point per book . No 1 cyl is set to tdc with timing dot at 6 oclock on crank gear .NO 1 is passenger front side towards radiator . Small wooden Dowel rod in no 1 will show you tdc. .
This is all done with spark plugs removed and battery disconnected . After alignment of these points chains may be put on correctly . If the passenger side cam phasor is showing R up drivers side will be L up . If not you are wrong .
This is a basic version of what you have to do . Read svares final fix several times , ford malukoco is good too . You must realize that there are several methods here . Lifting cams is to get around the $200 dollar valve compressor tool but you have to be careful making sure rollers stay on place .
If you don't get this timing in your head good then you may get in trouble .
If both cams are lifted then no valves are pushed down so no bending . So next you have to set cam lobes on both sides to this close point per book . No 1 cyl is set to tdc with timing dot at 6 oclock on crank gear .NO 1 is passenger front side towards radiator . Small wooden Dowel rod in no 1 will show you tdc. .
This is all done with spark plugs removed and battery disconnected . After alignment of these points chains may be put on correctly . If the passenger side cam phasor is showing R up drivers side will be L up . If not you are wrong .
This is a basic version of what you have to do . Read svares final fix several times , ford malukoco is good too . You must realize that there are several methods here . Lifting cams is to get around the $200 dollar valve compressor tool but you have to be careful making sure rollers stay on place .
If you don't get this timing in your head good then you may get in trouble .
04-02-2017, 08:40 AM
#23
Means you will have to pull oil pan and clean oil pickup screen it will be jammed full . Recommend new oil pump melling 340
or 360 amazon . Clean out VCT housings . Use old style metal ratcheting tensioners not new plastic ones --amazon . use only OEM phasors . Note all gaskets get RTV sealant on metal joints (You can feel them with you finger nail }and on crank seal key way .
I personally had to change all rollers and lash adjusters . All cam parts must go back exactly how they came out ,mark them and lay them out in order .
I bought most of my stuff from OEM select on ebay . $798 for timing set ,$265 for new rollers/lash adjusters .
or 360 amazon . Clean out VCT housings . Use old style metal ratcheting tensioners not new plastic ones --amazon . use only OEM phasors . Note all gaskets get RTV sealant on metal joints (You can feel them with you finger nail }and on crank seal key way .
I personally had to change all rollers and lash adjusters . All cam parts must go back exactly how they came out ,mark them and lay them out in order .
I bought most of my stuff from OEM select on ebay . $798 for timing set ,$265 for new rollers/lash adjusters .
The oil tensioners looked like they were ok but I haven't taken the chains off yet to see of the gaskets are still intact.
04-02-2017, 09:24 AM
#24
The tensioners are not okay......they are the cause for your issue. They didn't keep tension on the chain, letting the chain slap against the guides (and there by breaking them) and possibly the timing covers. It's a must that the tensioners are changed.
04-02-2017, 09:27 AM
#25
Oh I had no intention of keeping any of the old stuff in there.
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Summers22 (04-02-2017)
04-02-2017, 09:48 AM
#26
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Well if you are to the point of getting the chains on
It helps to have a second set of hands to run phasor bolts tension against valves-- the other guy puts chain on and tensioner . I realize there are other methods such as to remove certain rollers if you buy and operate the expensive valve tool . I don't like that method as you also can knock a valve keeper off and you have to put back those rollers .
The old style tensioner doesn't have a seal to blow out and will hold tension at startup when oil pressure hasn't built up yet . Some guys put a thin layer of sealant on back of metal tensioner . The plastic tensioners cause a lot of this timing failure .
Some write ups can get you confused between the crank keyway and the crank timing dot position . Some folks were even trying to use a mark on crank pulley in this timing setup --no good .
The only special tool that I thought worth it was the toothed cam phasor holding thing ,that worked great .
Oil pressure is very important on this hydraulic oil cam system ,it must be clean and high enough to move phasors and lube rollers /lash adjusters .
You must use a mc filter with good drain back valve 820 s at wally world .
Clean everything in there good . Change oil after a few hours after timing job ,you will have junk in there from being open . You call how long , some guys start with conventional then go to synthetic .
You must turn engine by hand two crank revs clockwise to verify no piston /valve hit .If you have one start over .
The old style tensioner doesn't have a seal to blow out and will hold tension at startup when oil pressure hasn't built up yet . Some guys put a thin layer of sealant on back of metal tensioner . The plastic tensioners cause a lot of this timing failure .
Some write ups can get you confused between the crank keyway and the crank timing dot position . Some folks were even trying to use a mark on crank pulley in this timing setup --no good .
The only special tool that I thought worth it was the toothed cam phasor holding thing ,that worked great .
Oil pressure is very important on this hydraulic oil cam system ,it must be clean and high enough to move phasors and lube rollers /lash adjusters .
You must use a mc filter with good drain back valve 820 s at wally world .
Clean everything in there good . Change oil after a few hours after timing job ,you will have junk in there from being open . You call how long , some guys start with conventional then go to synthetic .
You must turn engine by hand two crank revs clockwise to verify no piston /valve hit .If you have one start over .
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Herman Gilmore (04-02-2017)
04-02-2017, 10:03 AM
#27
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Losening cam bolts
If you loosen them in sequence ,basically from the center out a little at a time . They will turn without hitting valves , I completely pulled mine as I had damaged rollers and some bad lash adjusters . Be gentle with these cams /journals .Refer to manual for position of No.1 and no 5 cam lobes for correct timing or I can send you the picture . Be carefull all rollers stay in place as you torque them back . As long as no1 is at tdc you will be close to correct point . The cams determine everything, the chains sync them to the crank .
It helps if you hand oil cams and pump up/ test lash adjusters is a must for new ones .
It helps if you hand oil cams and pump up/ test lash adjusters is a must for new ones .
The following users liked this post:
Herman Gilmore (04-02-2017)
04-02-2017, 10:04 AM
#28
Actually I'm at the point before getting the old chains off
It helps to have a second set of hands to run phasor bolts tension against valves-- the other guy puts chain on and tensioner . I realize there are other methods such as to remove certain rollers if you buy and operate the expensive valve tool . I don't like that method as you also can knock a valve keeper off and you have to put back those rollers .
The old style tensioner doesn't have a seal to blow out and will hold tension at startup when oil pressure hasn't built up yet . Some guys put a thin layer of sealant on back of metal tensioner . The plastic tensioners cause a lot of this timing failure .
Some write ups can get you confused between the crank keyway and the crank timing dot position . Some folks were even trying to use a mark on crank pulley in this timing setup --no good .
The only special tool that I thought worth it was the toothed cam phasor holding thing ,that worked great .
Oil pressure is very important on this hydraulic oil cam system ,it must be clean and high enough to move phasors and lube rollers /lash adjusters .
You must use a mc filter with good drain back valve 820 s at wally world .
Clean everything in there good . Change oil after a few hours after timing job ,you will have junk in there from being open . You call how long , some guys start with conventional then go to synthetic .
You must turn engine by hand two crank revs clockwise to verify no piston /valve hit .If you have one start over .
The old style tensioner doesn't have a seal to blow out and will hold tension at startup when oil pressure hasn't built up yet . Some guys put a thin layer of sealant on back of metal tensioner . The plastic tensioners cause a lot of this timing failure .
Some write ups can get you confused between the crank keyway and the crank timing dot position . Some folks were even trying to use a mark on crank pulley in this timing setup --no good .
The only special tool that I thought worth it was the toothed cam phasor holding thing ,that worked great .
Oil pressure is very important on this hydraulic oil cam system ,it must be clean and high enough to move phasors and lube rollers /lash adjusters .
You must use a mc filter with good drain back valve 820 s at wally world .
Clean everything in there good . Change oil after a few hours after timing job ,you will have junk in there from being open . You call how long , some guys start with conventional then go to synthetic .
You must turn engine by hand two crank revs clockwise to verify no piston /valve hit .If you have one start over .
04-02-2017, 10:07 AM
#29
If you loosen them in sequence ,basically from the center out a little at a time . They will turn without hitting valves , I completely pulled mine as I had damaged rollers and some bad lash adjusters . Be gentle with these cams /journals .Refer to manual for position of No.1 and no 5 cam lobes for correct timing or I can send you the picture . Be carefull all rollers stay in place as you torque them back . As long as no1 is at tdc you will be close to correct point . The cams determine everything, the chains sync them to the crank .
It helps if you hand oil cams and pump up/ test lash adjusters is a must for new ones .
It helps if you hand oil cams and pump up/ test lash adjusters is a must for new ones .
Can you send me a pic of that. Did you loosen them halfwaywith chains on?