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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

lean codes come and go

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Old May 31, 2018 | 10:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by redfishtd
Still trying to get my head around this evap system . Plus I need to learn all the abbv in torque pro . Trying to understand the duty cycle of the purge system 150t is relating .
Its only getting worse with newer cars all because of regulations out the wazoo and the gov't just making things more strict. Cat converters, o2 sensors and on and on and on. Im for trying to keep the env clean but for Gods sake its just out of control.. Can't diagnose shinola anymore. have to have a freaking degree in electrical, chemistry and combustion theory
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 12:38 PM
  #22  
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I am having the same issue, it occurred before and after a Ford rebuilt motor swap. Very intermittent, usually sets the codes after hard acceleration (merging into traffic) Since it occurred after motor swap dealer investigated Vacuum leaks etc. nothing. Truck idles smooth and runs great, fuel pressure firm. I am leaning toward injector issues but it's a lot of money to replace.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JimWills
I am having the same issue, it occurred before and after a Ford rebuilt motor swap. Very intermittent, usually sets the codes after hard acceleration (merging into traffic) Since it occurred after motor swap dealer investigated Vacuum leaks etc. nothing. Truck idles smooth and runs great, fuel pressure firm. I am leaning toward injector issues but it's a lot of money to replace.
Yep, mine started a few weeks after I installed reman injectors. I actually bought an ultrasonic cleaner this weekend and am going to give them a wash and see what happens. My codes came back today.My truck idles fine and basically runs pretty good
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 06:14 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
It is really quiet easy. I admire the App developer for his ability to make tasks as intuitive as he has. If the PID (Parameter Identification) is already in your PID database, you simply 'long tap' a live data dashboard screen where you want to place the gauge - and you get a popup menu. Then select >ADD or MOVE or CHANGE gauge as appropriate. For 'ADD', it walks you through a scroll window to choose the 'type' gauge desired (digital, round or square, or 1/2 gauge, "+" / "-" gauge etc.) and then a scroll window from which you choose the PID you wish to monitor on THAT new gauge.

IF the PID is not included in the PID database already: select >Settings (the gear), > Manage Extra PIDs / Sensors, then press phones >Menu button (or three dots), and select >Add Custom PID ----- then input the fields required (as I listed above in post #5 (this thread).)

IF you have downloaded one of the 'CSV' files I have posted that already contain a bunch of custom PIDs (or ones you have created and saved) - you can copy the CSV file to your Android device(into the folder ".Torque/extendedPIDs -note: that is dot Torque) and in the step above you simply select >Add Predefined List, and choose the proper list from a scroll window.

This is the "POWER" of Torque Pro - which exists in NO OTHER scanner that I am familiar with. There is not a single sensor or parameter available from OBDII on your vehicle that you cannot display on a gauge ----- the hard part is locating the PID itself, then working out a formula that will display it properly.

I did a full PID scan (from 0000 to FFFF) - took like four hours - and located ~525 PIDs that 'respond'. Put those in a database and started trying to figure out what they are. It's been a real "TRIP".
Well, the stupid codes came back today after a long drive to the vet with the dog. I was able to find the freeze data on my torque but I don't know what Im looking for. Im wondering if the last couple days of humidity had anything to do with it. I think the last time they came back it may have been the same weather wise however its been raining like crazy in the North east for weeks and the codes were absent. Still having the flat spot bogging at 2000 rpm when acclerating
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 09:47 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Tommy J
Well, the stupid codes came back today after a long drive to the vet with the dog. I was able to find the freeze data on my torque but I don't know what Im looking for. Im wondering if the last couple days of humidity had anything to do with it. I think the last time they came back it may have been the same weather wise however its been raining like crazy in the North east for weeks and the codes were absent. Still having the flat spot bogging at 2000 rpm when acclerating
That sucks man. I too am getting lean codes after I replaced my injectors with reman. ones. I had the rough idle issues from leaky/stuck injectors, and once I swapped them out its like a whole new vehicle. But after about 3-4 days I will get the CEL. Very strange because the truck runs perfectly. I am thinking about getting my factory ones tested/rebuild and putting them back in. If that doesnt do it, I am wondering if my 02 sensors are fouled out because they got so much fuel running past them with the leaking injectors.............
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rotus623
That sucks man. I too am getting lean codes after I replaced my injectors with reman. ones. I had the rough idle issues from leaky/stuck injectors, and once I swapped them out its like a whole new vehicle. But after about 3-4 days I will get the CEL. Very strange because the truck runs perfectly. I am thinking about getting my factory ones tested/rebuild and putting them back in. If that doesnt do it, I am wondering if my 02 sensors are fouled out because they got so much fuel running past them with the leaking injectors.............
I actually had warm start issues with my first set for quite a while, first set of remans I should say and I wonder if they damaged my newer cats. I tried taking heat measurements on them but its confusing. The temps are all over the map if you just move it less than an inch with the laser temp gun so who knows plus I would think a bad cat would be bad but maybe it gets worse when warm. The problem I am finding out is with reman injectors you just don't know what you are getting. It could be leaky 05"s or soon to be leaky or clogged 100,000 mile ones. Yeah, they clean and flow test them but that's not a real world situation. they look good in the factory for 10 minutes but what happens after a week or days like your situation. The cheapest I"ve seen new non MC is in the $60 something range. Im going to ultrasonically clean mine this weekend and see what happens. I don't have my originals anymore. Had to exchange them for core charge remans. should have kept them. Good luck and keep us posted
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