ATOM

whatever works for ya i guess

for the 30 bucks, i'd buy the new revised part though, but money is tight these days for most

User14186

Common brother ya gotta give me the credit,lol.(money is not tight here,lol)I basically beat ford at their own game in creating the same part for 4bucks and it does the job and better.lol.And hey i didnt want to wait the 3-4days for then to get the part in,lol.Took it to 4 dealerships and 6 auto shops and all said the same thing,great designe,lol.Now yes it doesnt look that good,i will admit that,but common brother ya gotta give me credit on this,lol

ATOM

i'm gonna be brutally honest and i mean nothing towards you...i would be embarrassed to open the hood of my truck and have someone ask me about it....but i am quite particular...but i give you credit for the cheap fix...

yoheidiho

If the parts guy does a look-up based on the year of the truck (i.e. 2005) you will get the old part number. You must give them part number 6L3Z-9E441-A, as indicated in the TSB, or else they will try to sell you the old part.

Tasca Ford (http://www.tascafordparts.com/) has the new part for less than $15. I've had nothing but good experiences from them.

ATOM

they are great on prices, but by the time you pay shipping, you might as well have your local dealer order it, unless your ordering other stuff too.

they can look that up, if they want...

Pfierro1

Hi Guys
I had to replace the IWE solenoid switch&all is ok now.You guys can see if the system is working properly by doing thisengine idling)
1)Parking brake on&tranny in park,safety first.
2)make sure the truck is in 2wd
3)crawl underneath the truck&try to rotate the front drive shaft.You should be able to with your hand meaning,that vacuum is applied unlocking the hubs.
4)put the truck in 4wd.vacuum is removed&the hubs will lock&4wd is engaged.Front drive shaft should lock.
If this test flunks,you got a problem with the system......Pete

ATOM

this is the redneck way of doing it i guess, however if there is a small leak in the system, or if the iwe is shorting out and works on and off, this will not be 100% accurate. just have it vacuum pressure tested...before you start buying parts, that may be good.

User14186

hey honesty is fine.I never said it looked pretty,****,far from it.Now yes i could have sat down at home,used auto cad 10 and made the designe look great,but that was to much work,lol.it was just a quick easy fix(3-4day lead time on the new part to order)and way cheaper(this was only 4bucks,lol)And the nice thing is,nobody really even notices it when i pop the hood.But hey thanks for the brutal honesty,to me thats always welcome

jbrown89

Need a little help.

Took my 04 F150 4x4 into the shop for the same grinding noises described in the previous posts. They replaced both front hubs and gave it back to me. When I got home, I tested the 4wd and as soon as I putit back in 2wd, it started grinding again. Took it back, they need to replace the solenoid and actuators. The price was too high after spending what I did on the hubs, so I just picked it up.

Thanks to this thread, I just got back from picking up the new rain covered solenoid that goes behind the battery. I replaced it and now no noise is coming from the pass. side, but there is still the grinding (starts when I hit a bump, weird) on the drivers side. Should I assume the "actuator" is bad? I do not have a vaccuum gauge, and yes I know I should get one.

How difficult is it? I am going to be doing a long overdue brake job on it tonight and it cant be that hard to pull the unit bearing off?

ATOM

well if they just replaced both actuators, then i would take it back, you replaced almost everything that can be wrong--hubs, actuators, IWE solenoid, unless you got a crack in a hose, i would take it back and say the hell?

it's not hard to swap out an actuator, but if they just did and it's junk, make them fix it for free obviously.