ophidia

So I just had to replace my A/C clutch bearing because it decided to start squealing now that it's colder out. I did a fair amount of searching for an actual how-to and didn't find one, so I figured I could type one up quick. It's a fairly easy process.

I didn't think to get any pics, sorry.

Anyway:

Symptoms: A/C compressor chirps or squeals when the clutch is not engaged (this is when the bearing is actually spinning).

Parts needed: A/C clutch bearing. Should be available at an auto parts store near you or the usual online sources.

Tools:
1/2" breaker bar to release the belt tensioner
8mm socket for the bolt in the middle of the clutch
Ratchet and extensions (I used 12" of extensions)
Something to hold the clutch center while you remove the bolt (I used a vice-grips style oil filter wrench as it's what I had on hand)
Snap ring pliers
Something to push or beat the bearing out of the pulley and press the new one into the pulley

Steps I took:

1. Use the 1/2" breaker bar to release the belt. There's a 1/2" square hole in it to insert the bar; pull to loosen tension on the belt. It's easiest to pop the belt off of the alternator when you're holding pressure on the breaker bar.

2. Once the belt is removed, use whatever you decided is your best solution to lock the clutch center in place. If you look at it you'll see that it's raised in front so you should be able to clamp on something like my oil filter wrench, a strap wrench, something like that. I'm sure there's a tool made specifically for this, but who has that lying around? I locked it in place from above, probably would have been easier coming from below.

3. Drop to the ground and use your 8mm socket and extensions to pull out the bolt in the middle of the clutch. Mine was locked in with blue locktite and was stubborn the whole way out. I tried to use my cordless 1/4" impact to pull it out but it wasn't having any of that. Elbow grease all the way.

Once the bolt is out the clutch center comes off with no effort at all. Set it aside.

4. Using your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring holding the pulley on. Once that's off you can easily remove the pulley by hand. In my case the bearing didn't have any rough feeling to it when I turned the inner race by hand, but when I spun the pulley on my finger and had my ear right up to it, I could hear a shh shh shh as it spun. Just barely.

5. Use whatever you chose as your removal solution to remove the bearing. In my case I used a hammer, a bearing seating tool from Harbor Freight, and one of the cups from my balljoint set to put the pulley on to push the bearing out. I tried to use just the balljoint set to force it out, but I couldn't get it set up with adapters that would both be the right size and allow me to actually fit the pulley in the middle. The bearing beater worked fine. Some people use big sockets and bench vises. I did not have a bench vice available.

One thing to note: You push the bearing out from the front of the pulley. On the back, the bearing is staked in, but there's a lip in front of it that does not allow you to push it out from the back. The stakes didn't cause me any problems whatsoever. It came right out.

6. Seat the new bearing in the pulley. I used the same bearing beater I used to remove the old one to seat the new one. There were some issues getting it to start square to the bore in the pulley (had to remove and start over twice) but once it started it went right in. I put a little lithium grease in the hole to make it go in a little easier.

7. Put it all back together. The pulley slides right back on. Put the snap ring back in the groove and slide the clutch center back in. I locked on my vice grip style oil filter wrench before I put it back on because it was sort of a pain in the *** to lock it on the first time from above. Smoke the bolt back in and pull off your tool. Put the belt back on and remove all tools from under the vehicle and the engine bay.

Fire it up and enjoy the lack of chirping and squealing.

The whole process took less than an hour. Easy peasy.

I hope this helps someone out.

80575

Incredibly ironic that I have this same issue right now. Took it to the dealership to figure out what it is. Sound goes away when I turn on the AC. They want to replace the entire compressor.

60DRB

Of course they do. Parts and labor over a grand, instead of you and a twenty.

80575

I might just let it be for winter. Highs of low 30s these days. Can't be doing stuff outside right now without fingers freezing.

dbrooks

Everything was going fine until I got to this part:

Drop to the ground and use your 8mm socket and extensions to pull out the bolt in the middle of the clutch.

That 8mm bolt is now stripped...no way it's coming out. Suggestions?

fltdriver

Just used this as a guide to replace my bearing, after removing the mech. fan I could now hear random squealing. Simple. Only difference with my 94 5.8 was:
No extensions, it's right there above the PS pump
15mm socket for belt tensioner

I used an oil filter wrench as well, worked like a charm.

Did a little research and it was recommended that if you aren't re-staking the new bearing that you should use a little Red Threadlocker to help keep it in place. Got the bearing race tool from Oreilly's, pounded it out on a steel I-beam, then back in. No problems. Put a little threadlocker on the 8mm bolt just to make sure it stays in place. No more squeals, only took 30-40 min.

Thanks

jb2012

I am fixing to do this, would it be possible to break the center bolt leaving the belt on with full tension, and then releasing it after you break over the center bolt?

badwithcomputer

You fellers got a part number for that bearing? rockauto.com is showing a couple different ones. When I call around to local places they want me to bring it in. Ahhh how am I supposed to drive myself in with no belt?

Joseph Aitchison

, what AC clutch on my truck I don't think the compressor is disengaging do I have to put another spacer in there you think

Matt720