HELP please. Vct seals
#11
Senior Member
I had to get to this when I did my full timing swap out. I had the truck on stands; front wheels off; and wheel liners removed. This allowed me to reach-up over the frame, just to the left and above the strut tower to get to the bolt.
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FordSilly (10-04-2013)
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
As you can see your openings are considerably smaller and so, I do believe you have the '07 and newer style valve covers. Are they both like this? Have you owned the truck since new? If not, I wonder if someone replaced the valve covers sometime along the way or maybe put a junkyard engine in the truck. The seals on the the newer style valve covers are still replaceable ... I think you just can't really get them out until the valve cover is off the engine. I've been told there isn't enough clearance, but if it was me, I think I'd try drilling a couple of small holes in the seal and see if it can be worked-out with a 90-degree pick or something along those lines. I don't know what the seating surface looks like under there though.
#13
Storm Chaser /Navy Vet
These are the pics I have from when I tackled the job. Part numbers to both items and even the old seal as well. My seals were practically fused with the damn cylinder head so I kinda ripped it out...lol! The Driver's side was a big PITA!!!
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ya my seals don't look like that. There are no "tabs" on them. So I think somewhere along the line the engine was replaced cause both valve covers are that way. But bright side is I guess maybe my cam phasers won't be crap if it's an updated engine. Looks like I'll be pulling the valve covers tomorrow.
#15
Storm Chaser /Navy Vet
Ya my seals don't look like that. There are no "tabs" on them. So I think somewhere along the line the engine was replaced cause both valve covers are that way. But bright side is I guess maybe my cam phasers won't be crap if it's an updated engine. Looks like I'll be pulling the valve covers tomorrow.
#18
Short 18mm with 3/8 drive ratchet for power steering bracket, you don't have to remove the whole bolt just loosen it, the bracket is slotted.
The Torx bit on mine was a T27 and I just used a Torx screwdriver.
This isn't what I used but gives you the idea, I would try to stay away from using extensions and bits because you sure as he'll don't want one falling in.
The Torx bit on mine was a T27 and I just used a Torx screwdriver.
This isn't what I used but gives you the idea, I would try to stay away from using extensions and bits because you sure as he'll don't want one falling in.
#19
Storm Chaser /Navy Vet
Short 18mm with 3/8 drive ratchet for power steering bracket, you don't have to remove the whole bolt just loosen it, the bracket is slotted. The Torx bit on mine was a T27 and I just used a Torx screwdriver. This isn't what I used but gives you the idea, I would try to stay away from using extensions and bits because you sure as he'll don't want one falling in.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the help. I think I have found something. I was looking in the engine bay for build dates to see if everything matched up. Well on the front of the drivers side valve cover is a sticker with a date of 10/26/06. So I'm guessing that's the build date if the valve cover. Wen down to the parts store , but when they pulled up the valve covers vct seal it was still the serviceable one. They ended up finding the style like mine, without tabs are available and should be here Monday. I'm going to try and get it out through the valve cover but if not will be removing them to change. I'm also going to take a look at the phasers if I have to pull the covers. Next question is where would the tag be on the actual engine block that would have the build date or information on how to find the build date?