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Help! 2006 F-150 FX4 5.4 Triton misfire/acceleration issue

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Old 10-02-2012, 09:23 PM
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Well, I picked up the truck today after spending $695 on having both catalytic converters replaced. I've attached a picture of the passenger side cat to show what a cat looks like after it has been destroyed by a fuel injector being stuck open for an undisclosed length of time. I have a related exhaust manifold gasket leak that I'm going to fix this weekend, but otherwise the truck is running awesome. I can floor it going up hill with no hesitation, miss, crazy downshift, or lack of power. Just wanted to update the post so that someone else down the road might be able to use it to save some time and money. Thanks to all those who offered advice.
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butler2323 (02-19-2013)
Old 10-02-2012, 10:54 PM
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Wow! That cat was melted down real good..

Thanks for sharing your findings, I'm glad you got your problems figured out.
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Montana01 (10-02-2012)
Old 11-19-2012, 09:02 PM
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ok, I also am having a similar problem, all cops and plugs were changed and the misfire continues and only misses on the passenger side. The truck was not running rough at idle and did it solve your rattle issue? Did any O2 sensors pop codes? I am a college kid working as a mechanic and it is very painstaking to find time to fix the problem myself much less pay someone else to fix it. I have an 06 screw and I am at wits end on why my truck is still messing up. Also, when i pulled my plugs out, the plugs had build up on the cylinders that were missing so I am curious about this solution
Old 02-20-2013, 10:06 PM
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So I had the same exact problem as the original poster (OP). I have a 2008 XLT, 5.4L, K&N CAI, and Hypertech Programmer (yeah.... I know...) First problem started as a misfire cylinder 1 and misfire cylinder 3 after a day of pretty hard mudding. Thinking I had gotten water up in the engine and into the COP boot, I pulled the boot, inspected and let sit and dry over night. Nothing seemed to be out of the norm the following morning so cleared codes and drove home with no other issues... or so I thought. I had apparently done some damage to my timing tensioner and that caused a whole world of problems (aka new motor needed). After the new motor was put in, I was experiencing the same issues as the OP. Truck ran fine around town during normal driving in traffic and such, but noticed while pulling onto interstate under 3/4-WOT that I had significant power loss and the truck would not really accelerate, while also hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak with some cracking and popping sounds. I started throwing codes while under throttle. First it started as just a blinking as if it was running lean, then the codes would pop randomly. First code to pop was p0301 (misfire cylinder 1) again, replaced COP. Second code was P0303 (misfire cylinder 3), also replaced COP. Seemed to run slightly better but still had a huge lack of power. I then replaced the MAF, thinking about the over-oiling of the K&N that i may have done after last cleaning. Nothing really changed. After calling around some exhaust shops (some were more concerned on why I thought I thought my Cats were bad than they were about just putting new ones in my truck) , I finally got a shop that would put two in for $615. I wasn't able to get a picture of the cats pulled like the OP, but my passenger side was just as bad as his. Truck runs perfect after the cats were replaced. My conclusion is that the original fault (p0301&303 misfires) caused the cat on that side to break down and lead to the new cats. I posting this all incase someone is searching for the same issue as we had. I had to do a lot of different searches to finally find this post. If I can help someone save time and money, then the post was worth it.

EDIT- Forgot to mention, i never had a catalyst efficiency code.....
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Crow27 (08-01-2013)
Old 04-14-2013, 01:50 PM
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My 2006 was doing the same at 46000 miles and it was a bad catalytic on bank 1. I had new plugs installed and swapped around the coil packs with no change noticed. When I pulled the catalytic the insides were broken up.

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Old 08-01-2013, 07:45 AM
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I've been having this EXACT problem. I would have never considered the cat. I will be getting it looked at and will update my results.
Old 07-18-2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Montana01
Hello,

I am new to the forum and have been doing research to try to figure out what is wrong with my truck. The truck has 116,500 miles on it and had about 111,000 on it when I bought it a few weeks ago prior to driving it from Alaska to Mississippi. I didn't notice anything wrong when I first picked it up. After hooking a light trailer to it and climbing hills or passing cars, it became apparent that something was wrong at high throttle settings under a load. It seemed that it was over downshifting and when it did, there was a rattling sound in the engine and the truck would actually slow down. At first, the engine light would flash, but then go out. Eventually it stayed on continuously. The truck sat for a couple of weeks while I was hunting moose and caribou. When I drove back to fairbanks after the hunt, the gentleman who sold the truck to me hooked up a scanner and said that there was a no. 3 cylinder misfire and that the plugs were probably fouled. I was on a tight timeline butchering and had him replace the plugs. He assured me that everything was good when he dropped it off. When I started it the next morning to start my drive back down to MS, the engine light was on and the truck was running rough. I took the truck into town and had a scanner hooked up which said one of the coils was bad but didn't specify. I found that the former owner had broken off the two-wire plug that connects to the no. 4 cylinder cop, and it was hanging on by a thread. I replaced the COP and the rough idle was gone, and the codes cleared. However, once on the road, the same issue under load came back.
I babied the truck 4400 miles back home, with no other option due to already being behind timeline. Enroute an exhause leak on the passenger side went from bad to worse. When I got to my brother's in MT, I pulled the passenger side exhaust manifold (which is a bear by the way) and replaced the two piece gasket set. Both original gaskets were blown out pretty bad. After putting it all back together there was still a minor exhaust leak between cylinders 3 and 4, but it was much better. I didn't have time to mess with it anymore and finished the drive to MS.
I limited myself to mid range throttle to keep the transmission from downshifting, the engine light from flashing, and the terrible racket that followed in the engine.
When I tested the codes at home there was a no. 1 and 3 cylinder misfire, and a o2 bank two fail (maybe because of the misfires?).
The truck seems to be getting progressively worse. It runs great at idle all the way through mid-throttle settings, but when you get on it, it sounds pretty nasty. Under a load at about 3000 rpms is when things go south. At idle, I have reved it up pretty good without anything unusual.
The former owner replaced the plugs and all 8 COPs about three years ago. He also had an injector stick open on him, which he had replaced. The injector, the misfire codes, and the blown exhaust manifold gasket have all been on the passenger side.
I swapped the COPs from cylinders 1 and 3 today to cylinders 5 and 6 and then pulled the negative battery cable to reset the codes. I took the truck out and it ran nasty, as expected, but I couldn't for the life of me get the engine light to come on or for it to pop any codes. That was weird because the engine light would flash every time I got on it before.
I did notice some pretty good oxidation on the electrode on the COP that I pulled out of the no. 1 cylinder, but not sure why no codes are popping now.
Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. One thing I'm thinking it might be is the Catalytic converter on the passenger side. Knowing that an injector was stuck open for some time on that side 3 years ago, coupled with the nasty rattling I'm hearing, and the fact that everything has been on that side of the engine is leading me down that path. However, I haven't seen any codes for the CC, nor have I noticed it looking different from the one on the other side (discolored from getting too hot).

I'm all ears.

Thanks
I had a similar problem, when I switched around the COPs it got better so I removed them one at a time and cleaned them and when replacing them I also put some dielectric gel in them and on connectors. ran better after that, no codes and running smooth.



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