TimelessR1

Yeah.. That's a symptom of a frozen caliper for sure! It's best to replace in pairs .. Also most likely you don't have to change lines.. But when you bleed the brakes you'll be able to see if chunks of rubber from the lines is in the fluid

Prof

The lines look good, but I am in for a chunk, another 30 bucks for lines won't break me...I am gonna have fluid spillage no matter what, so what the hell?

Any one know of a vid that will show me how to change lines without a friggin mess?

TimelessR1

They sell a rubber plug you can plug the end of the brake line with.. If it was me I'd keep the stock lines.. Use locking vice grips and cardboard or Popsicle sticks on the jaws and pinch off the lines before removing the calipers .. Put the card board box your rotors will come in to catch any spillage

Prof

OK, update - I am socked in by rain tilll Monday, and as my truck would be sticking out into the air, I am chooosing to forego the rear brake repair until Monday, which will be cutting it close.

I reallly need some help here though; I havent been able to find anything online or I wouldnt ask.

I have the remanufaccturered calipers and new lines for the rear brakes. Now the rubber brake lines in the rear, even though they have different part numbers, are exactly the same - length, set up etc. Is this correct?

I intended take the new calipers, and install the new brake lines onto the new calipers and put the new pad in the calipers - so that when the time comes, I can just slip the whole unit in, however, I noticed that the nut on the end of the brake line where it connects to the metal lines, is stationary (I thought it would float, and so I could just zip it on and thumb tighten it - but I see now that I am going to have the twist the whole hose to get it on the male metal brake line end - is this right?

NOW, with the male mental brake line end, is it appropriate to use plumbers tape on it - is it a goood idea, give the pressure, or just another unnecessary complication that could potentially back fire if the teflon tape somehow gets in the joint?

I havent been able to define any rubber plugs to block off the metal brake line from spilling all over my floor - where can I find these and is there an easy alternative?

Short of having several layers or cardboard and a mall catch basin, is there any other way to avoid the brake fluid going every where?

Lastly, I am aware of the need to lubricate the boots and the pins so the caliper can move on the pins - is there any wisdom in also lubricating the caliper bolt which goes into the pins? I havent seeen this done, but as the pin slides on the caliper bolt, why wouldn't you?

Thanks guy, I am almost there....

TimelessR1

I can answer what I know and have done in the past. I personally would use tephlon tape on the connections.. too much of a chance of the tape getting in the line.. bigger nightmare! As for the plugs...http://m.autozone.com/brakes-and-tra...rake-hose-plug

Then still will leak a little but not that bad..

As for the bolts that go in the slide pins to hold the caliper on I just use anti seize lube.. so next time the bolts come off nice and easy and don't rust or corrode

Prof

There are those plugs! Thanks!

Ok, can you tell me about the lines?

redfishtd

I have been a victim of sticking calipers and yes they should be done in pairs .The one is going to fail soon after the other . That heat can cause a lot of damage . Pistons are composite as they go out they absorb moisture and swell, as you press them back in after a brake job they stick intermittently .
There is a youtube video on emergency brake repairs . I never found drum brakes hard to fix . You must lube them and use them .
Of course i don't live in salt country either .
I find that the tough stucco pans come in handy underneath trucks . They are shallow and tough . Home depot has them . 2 different sizes - catch a lot of fluid.
Brakes must be maintained inspected every 30k or so . I would rather fight a failure to go than the terror of no brakes and plowing into somebody or something . Any indication of trouble and I shut her down .

Prof

Well, so much for that.

Set everything up, got the calipers off - sat them on buckets next to the jacked up rotors, got the rotors off - all of that went smoothly.

However, when I tried to get the lines disconnected - no dice. Part from not knowing which way the connectors turned, they would not budge either way. Hit them with PB blaster, NO DICE. I was afraid that I was going to twist the metal iines and so had to modify the plan. Keep the old lines, using the new banjo bolts and copper washers. Got the line off the caliper, plugged it, took the caliper to the bench, made sure that the pads were put the new caliper exactl yt the same way (almost put one pad in upside down, but figured it out quick) - lubed iup the new pins, put a little brake grease on the pads - went back to the wheel. Antiseize on the plate, new rails after brushing the ears, with brake lube - everything going ok. Get the new rotor cleaned, on, cleaned again. Caliper put in place, new bolts, all good. Not much mess so far, put bucket underneath as fluid catch and garbage can. Bolt up the brake line torque the caliper bolts and banjo bolt. ( I also lubed up the parking brake, pads were good, so I forwent messing with that in an effort to save time).

Now the fun begins. Set up my Motiv brake bleeder, cap to master cylinder is really tight, but I get the cap on there. Start pumping up the thing...10lbs, 15...all hell breaks loose brake fluid running out of the master cylinder, I am freaking out, WTF - release pressure on the bleeder, fluid still pouring out. Towels, trying to wipe up everything, dripping on the garage floor (which is painted), crawling under truck with every towel I can find, lucky that I didnt get any fluid in the eyes.

OK, get back up there, seat the cap as tight as I can, check it, nope - fit it again and it hold, no leaks. Get the pressure up to 15lbs, then go back to bleed the brake, crack the nipple, nothing major. It flows after a while and there are no bubbles - it is pure fluid. Cool. Go to the other side, tire off and doing the same thing. Get to the bleeding, there are some bubbles this time - more like a burp. Then flows clear. Ok, awesome. I look the bleeder, not a lot of fluid has gotte to the catch bottle, but the pressure has gone down slightly. Release pressure, all is good. Get the tires back on, and roll the truck out. Pedal is almost all the way to the floor - it stops, but the brake pedal is spongy as hell. Take it for a drive and while it stops it take a while and you have to floor the brake. Crap.

Figure I might need to bleed the fronts too - even though no video or instruction I have seen with regard to the caliper swap has said this. Get up under the fron passenger side to bleed it - the nipple is frozen AND stripped (which i didn't help with my 10mm wrench trying to free it - PB BLaster, no joy.). SO, i cant bleed the fronts unless one of you gentlemen can come up with some idea for me - after all this is just makes me sick I might have to take it to a shop to have the friggin brakes bled - ANY IDEAS, PLEASE? I just do not have time for this.

B

Prof

Got the front bleeder valve out and replaced. Bled both fronts, in order, passenger front, driver front. No change, pedal almost to floor. Redid passenger rear, then driver rear. No change, pedal to floor.

What am I missing? Each corner is sending fluid, no bubbles, clear. The pressure in the Motiv tank is 15lbs, and drops only slightly. No leaks that I can see, any thoughts? I need some help here gents.

sscottab

I would try rebleeding the brakes get someone to help you pump the brakes and hold down the pedal while you open and close the bleeder and keep a eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder iam not a fan of bleeder tanks. I know some vehicles need to have the abs module activated by a computer to bleed correctly not sure about the f150 though. now to clean up spilled brake fluid just hose it down with water no need for any degreaser just don't let is sit long on painted surfaces for long brake fluid is water solable.