General Questions about common issues for 04-08
05-16-2018, 01:16 PM
#11
lol. There's no such thing as too much research
05-16-2018, 01:24 PM
#12
Member
Thread Starter
My experience to date.
Purchased 2004 F150, new style, in 2011. July. 71890 miles at the time of purchase. 123300 right now.
1. Cam phasers replaced @ 73850. (no issue since, runs mostly quiet. Do have a little noise sometimes on start up, not every time. Probably a leaking tensioner, will be looking into a repair if it gets worse)
2. No drive shaft issue.
3. Added a pint of tranny fluid last summer. Original transmission. No issues. Pulled a light pop up for six years. Started pulling a 7000 lb. camper last year. 1600 miles roughly. No issue.
4. I did replace the VCT solenoids @ 95940. I had purchased them when I originally replaced the cam phasers but didn't install them until much later. I noted no real difference in performance or sound.
5. Injectors are just not quiet. Not an issue in my opinion.
Things other than you mentioned. The four wheel drive apparatus is a little weak. The vacuum solenoids get weak on the front or leak, which may cause them to half shift into gear. I had this issue. Had them replaced @ 86252 miles. No issue since. That was the last major repair 4 years ago.
Other things to look for. Fuel pump control module located in a stupid place, above the rear axle. I replaced mine. I also put new brake rotors on six years ago. 80500 miles.
In closing, although these pickups get a lot of bad press, if you take care of them, use the correct oil and oil filters, 5w20 or 5w30 and a motorcraft, fix the issues, they will run a long time.
Failed to mention, the plugs were changed shortly after I bought it. 500 bucks, all broke off. But no issues since.
Purchased 2004 F150, new style, in 2011. July. 71890 miles at the time of purchase. 123300 right now.
1. Cam phasers replaced @ 73850. (no issue since, runs mostly quiet. Do have a little noise sometimes on start up, not every time. Probably a leaking tensioner, will be looking into a repair if it gets worse)
2. No drive shaft issue.
3. Added a pint of tranny fluid last summer. Original transmission. No issues. Pulled a light pop up for six years. Started pulling a 7000 lb. camper last year. 1600 miles roughly. No issue.
4. I did replace the VCT solenoids @ 95940. I had purchased them when I originally replaced the cam phasers but didn't install them until much later. I noted no real difference in performance or sound.
5. Injectors are just not quiet. Not an issue in my opinion.
Things other than you mentioned. The four wheel drive apparatus is a little weak. The vacuum solenoids get weak on the front or leak, which may cause them to half shift into gear. I had this issue. Had them replaced @ 86252 miles. No issue since. That was the last major repair 4 years ago.
Other things to look for. Fuel pump control module located in a stupid place, above the rear axle. I replaced mine. I also put new brake rotors on six years ago. 80500 miles.
In closing, although these pickups get a lot of bad press, if you take care of them, use the correct oil and oil filters, 5w20 or 5w30 and a motorcraft, fix the issues, they will run a long time.
Failed to mention, the plugs were changed shortly after I bought it. 500 bucks, all broke off. But no issues since.
Good to know about the 4x4 control. I was going to ask that. Last 4x4 vehicle I had was a Jeep Cherokee and it had a mechanical actuation which I prefer. How long and how much money was it to replace the components to fix the 4x4 control?
How did you know the fuel pump control module was failing?
Do you know how often the cam phasers, chains, tensioners, or solenoids typically need to be replaced? Based on history in this forum? I'm new here and it would probably take me a while to dig through it to get an idea. I figure someone as yourself or scourge might know something like this from being active here for so long.
05-17-2018, 06:10 AM
#13
I was in this news group and was informed of the control module issue. I checked mine, it looked pretty crappy. So I changed it. 60 bucks. The four wheel drive thing was around a 1000 if I remember right. Vacuum actuators on the axles get sticky and leaky. As far as the cam phaser, tensioner deal probably only once to repair that. By the time they wear out again you will be looking at 300,000 miles? Something else will give out before that stuff. 
Note on mine the cab corners and right behind the front wheels below the doors there is a rust issue. I live in a salt road climate. Pickup is 14 years old. I try to keep it washed but winters here are six months long sometimes. I would go with previous advice though, go newer. 08, 09, if you can swing the cost.
Note on mine the cab corners and right behind the front wheels below the doors there is a rust issue. I live in a salt road climate. Pickup is 14 years old. I try to keep it washed but winters here are six months long sometimes. I would go with previous advice though, go newer. 08, 09, if you can swing the cost.
05-17-2018, 06:36 AM
#14
Mark
iTrader: (1)
You forgot the mention the exhaust manifold issue.. very common on 04-08 5.4 3v. Pita to fix. Also remember the build date on the 3v Motor changed the plugs and upgraded some timing components... motors built after 10/09/07
The following 2 users liked this post by techrep:
Patrick Boehm (05-17-2018),
SCORGE (05-17-2018)
05-17-2018, 08:19 AM
#15
Member
Thread Starter
- So on the motors built after 10/09/07 do they not have the spark plug issue of breaking off in the head? Would the 2008 model F150s have this resolved? How would I check the motor build date on a used truck I'm interested in?
- Upgraded timing components, is that like the chains, solenoid, phasers, tensioners? Does this make the phaser/timing issues a non-issue then?
- Regarding the exhaust manifold, are the 2009's the first time this was fixed?
05-17-2018, 11:34 AM
#16
- So on the motors built after 10/09/07 do they not have the spark plug issue of breaking off in the head? Would the 2008 model F150s have this resolved? How would I check the motor build date on a used truck I'm interested in?
- Upgraded timing components, is that like the chains, solenoid, phasers, tensioners? Does this make the phaser/timing issues a non-issue then?
- Regarding the exhaust manifold, are the 2009's the first time this was fixed?
05-17-2018, 11:41 AM
#17
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Scorge has most of it--agreed
Exhaust manifolds crack and studs break off ,replace with stainless studs . Drive shaft can be reworked see you tube or get driveshaft shop to do it .Yes the timing job is expensive in parts . But a lot of foreign cars are similar . At least its not a drive belt-- its a chain drive . Yes it is an interference engine but we can talk you thru the timing job its not that hard . A lot of parts have been redesigned but replace plastic tensioners with steel ratcheting type with no gasket to blow out .
Injectors are a heavily worked item I believe in changing them every 100k or so with new not rebuilt .
You must not go 100k on plugs--60k best -- nor over 5k /4 months on oil changes . The dirty oil runs the hydraulic cam circuit don't let it get dirty . Don't use heavy oil ,5w-30 syn is heavy enough .
Learn to do plugs correctly . Don't use a heli coil on these engines , use a premium insert but we don't lose threads on these years anyway . You should torque wrench plugs in after starting by fingers 25 to 28 foot pounds . .
Keep some oil on engine parts in rust country . Wash vehicle often, undercarriage too . Using a android phone with torque pro and a cheap bluetooth reader a good thing .
I think the 5.4 can be a good engine if you treat it right . Some luck is required as the accountants designed the bad parts on these engines.
60k for a new truck is ridiculous so we will keep these going .
Injectors are a heavily worked item I believe in changing them every 100k or so with new not rebuilt .
You must not go 100k on plugs--60k best -- nor over 5k /4 months on oil changes . The dirty oil runs the hydraulic cam circuit don't let it get dirty . Don't use heavy oil ,5w-30 syn is heavy enough .
Learn to do plugs correctly . Don't use a heli coil on these engines , use a premium insert but we don't lose threads on these years anyway . You should torque wrench plugs in after starting by fingers 25 to 28 foot pounds . .
Keep some oil on engine parts in rust country . Wash vehicle often, undercarriage too . Using a android phone with torque pro and a cheap bluetooth reader a good thing .
I think the 5.4 can be a good engine if you treat it right . Some luck is required as the accountants designed the bad parts on these engines.
60k for a new truck is ridiculous so we will keep these going .
The following users liked this post:
SCORGE (05-18-2018)
05-17-2018, 11:59 AM
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Exhaust manifolds crack and studs break off ,replace with stainless studs . Drive shaft can be reworked see you tube or get driveshaft shop to do it .Yes the timing job is expensive in parts . But a lot of foreign cars are similar . At least its not a drive belt-- its a chain drive . Yes it is an interference engine but we can talk you thru the timing job its not that hard . A lot of parts have been redesigned but replace plastic tensioners with steel ratcheting type with no gasket to blow out .
Injectors are a heavily worked item I believe in changing them every 100k or so with new not rebuilt .
You must not go 100k on plugs--60k best -- nor over 5k /4 months on oil changes . The dirty oil runs the hydraulic cam circuit don't let it get dirty . Don't use heavy oil ,5w-30 syn is heavy enough .
Learn to do plugs correctly . Don't use a heli coil on these engines , use a premium insert but we don't lose threads on these years anyway . You should torque wrench plugs in after starting by fingers 25 to 28 foot pounds . .
Keep some oil on engine parts in rust country . Wash vehicle often, undercarriage too . Using a android phone with torque pro and a cheap bluetooth reader a good thing .
I think the 5.4 can be a good engine if you treat it right . Some luck is required as the accountants designed the bad parts on these engines.
60k for a new truck is ridiculous so we will keep these going .
Injectors are a heavily worked item I believe in changing them every 100k or so with new not rebuilt .
You must not go 100k on plugs--60k best -- nor over 5k /4 months on oil changes . The dirty oil runs the hydraulic cam circuit don't let it get dirty . Don't use heavy oil ,5w-30 syn is heavy enough .
Learn to do plugs correctly . Don't use a heli coil on these engines , use a premium insert but we don't lose threads on these years anyway . You should torque wrench plugs in after starting by fingers 25 to 28 foot pounds . .
Keep some oil on engine parts in rust country . Wash vehicle often, undercarriage too . Using a android phone with torque pro and a cheap bluetooth reader a good thing .
I think the 5.4 can be a good engine if you treat it right . Some luck is required as the accountants designed the bad parts on these engines.
60k for a new truck is ridiculous so we will keep these going .
- So if I get a this motor, should I go ahead and immediately replace the studs with stainless? Or if they are rotted, should I wait until it's necessary to replace them...
- What are these steel ratcheting type tensioners with no gasket? Do you have an example?
- Plugs: Anti-seize yay or nay? and is that the torque per the service manual or from experience in these forums?
- I live in rust country, Michigan. Lots of salt. What engine components do you mean? Would WD40 suffice? A little off topic but I've heard of some people swearing by soaking their trucks down (undercarriage and body) with WD40. Never washing them in the winter, and claim it keeps them rust free. Surely this is bull****? I've never wanted to do this experiment on my own vehicles but I'm curious.
05-18-2018, 09:22 AM
#19
Just for the sake of my curiosity, choose to ignore if you wish, no worries.
Are you paying cash for this vehicle or financing?
I strongly agree with redfishtd, the price for new pickups is out of control.
And people don't even blink to finance this stuff for 7 years and spend 600 bucks a month or more. ?????
I bought my 2004 in 2011. Paid 17 K cash for it. So far about 5 K to fix some of the issues mentioned. So if I would have bit the bullet
in 2011 and bought a new one. What was a 2011 F150 lariat worth? New? I research around 40 K. So I have 18 K left to spend 7 years later.
And I would have had to finance a majority of the price, cause I sure as hell didn't have 40 K to blow on a pickup in 2011!
I guess my point in this is you can spend a lot on repairs, and still not get to half of what new pickups cost you. So get a 5.4 and so what if you have to fix some stuff?
Find me a chevy or a dodge that is 14 years old, 123000 miles, and never had a major repair.
Are you paying cash for this vehicle or financing?
I strongly agree with redfishtd, the price for new pickups is out of control.
And people don't even blink to finance this stuff for 7 years and spend 600 bucks a month or more. ?????
I bought my 2004 in 2011. Paid 17 K cash for it. So far about 5 K to fix some of the issues mentioned. So if I would have bit the bullet
in 2011 and bought a new one. What was a 2011 F150 lariat worth? New? I research around 40 K. So I have 18 K left to spend 7 years later.
And I would have had to finance a majority of the price, cause I sure as hell didn't have 40 K to blow on a pickup in 2011!
I guess my point in this is you can spend a lot on repairs, and still not get to half of what new pickups cost you. So get a 5.4 and so what if you have to fix some stuff?
Find me a chevy or a dodge that is 14 years old, 123000 miles, and never had a major repair.
05-18-2018, 09:41 AM
#20
- So if I get a this motor, should I go ahead and immediately replace the studs with stainless? Or if they are rotted, should I wait until it's necessary to replace them...
- What are these steel ratcheting type tensioners with no gasket? Do you have an example?
- Plugs: Anti-seize yay or nay? and is that the torque per the service manual or from experience in these forums?
- I live in rust country, Michigan. Lots of salt. What engine components do you mean? Would WD40 suffice? A little off topic but I've heard of some people swearing by soaking their trucks down (undercarriage and body) with WD40. Never washing them in the winter, and claim it keeps them rust free. Surely this is bull****? I've never wanted to do this experiment on my own vehicles but I'm curious.
2) They're the tensioners for the 2v motors. Just google them
3) Yes. A dab on the threads and some on the barrel. Don't get it on the porcelain or electrodes
4) I live in the deep south, so no rust. I could only imagine that not washing salt off of a vehicle is a terrible idea