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Fuse block for accessories

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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
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08supercrew
 
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Default Fuse block for accessories

I put fuse block for amp,2 light bars,inner bed lights,back up leds.

To many accessories to put on battery



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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:14 PM
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Hey David - Ya, that looks very much like what I was thinking - this is the block I was planning to buy:

Amazon Amazon

My concern is how to only have it powered when the ignition is in the ON position. Obviously, I don't want to tie all of that into the stock fuse box, with the one free ignition powered slot available. In reading, it looks like I want a relay(?) that will control power to the new fuse block, based on the ignition position. Does that make sense? But you're definitely doing exactly what I intended, in terms of powering my lightbar, LED pods, etc.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:21 PM
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08supercrew
 
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Originally Posted by PDX_F150
Hey David - Ya, that looks very much like what I was thinking - this is the block I was planning to buy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC

My concern is how to only have it powered when the ignition is in the ON position. Obviously, I don't want to tie all of that into the stock fuse box, with the one free ignition powered slot available. In reading, it looks like I want a relay(?) that will control power to the new fuse block, based on the ignition position. Does that make sense? But you're definitely doing exactly what I intended, in terms of powering my lightbar, LED pods, etc.
Everything tied into to fuse block has it's on fuse so if any error occurs it will blow its individual fuse.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:30 PM
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No, I get that. But what I want is for the entire (Accessory) fuse block to be completely cut off when the ignition is off. This is all about long-term, off grid camping, and I don't want a @!#%! iPad plug or something sitting there for 2 weeks, draining my battery in the cab. I want to 100% kill that entire block, when the ignition is off - if that makes sense. I know it's harder than just wiring it up to the battery, as it looks like you've done. But I've had weird, slow battery leaks in the past with accessories, and don't want to find out in the middle of nowhere.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 07:06 PM
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08supercrew
 
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Originally Posted by PDX_F150
No, I get that. But what I want is for the entire (Accessory) fuse block to be completely cut off when the ignition is off. This is all about long-term, off grid camping, and I don't want a @!#%! iPad plug or something sitting there for 2 weeks, draining my battery in the cab. I want to 100% kill that entire block, when the ignition is off - if that makes sense. I know it's harder than just wiring it up to the battery, as it looks like you've done. But I've had weird, slow battery leaks in the past with accessories, and don't want to find out in the middle of nowhere.
Gotcha something you could consider they make solar powered trickle chargers that you could leave plugged up to the battery and just set it on the windshield or hood whatever's easier and it's gonna constantly get a charge
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by davidk1078
Gotcha something you could consider they make solar powered trickle chargers that you could leave plugged up to the battery and just set it on the windshield or hood whatever's easier and it's gonna constantly get a charge
Well a mean when you're off the grid in the woods something to think about.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 07:09 PM
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Ya, that's def an option for keeping things topped up. The other option for the fuse block is just a high capacity kill switch. Just route everything through that, before the block, and just throw the switch when setting up camp. It's less optimal, but still gets the job done. Just surprised this seems harder than I would have expected it to be.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by PDX_F150
Ya, that's def an option for keeping things topped up. The other option for the fuse block is just a high capacity kill switch. Just route everything through that, before the block, and just throw the switch when setting up camp. It's less optimal, but still gets the job done. Just surprised this seems harder than I would have expected it to be.
U could also put in-line fuse thru power wire to fuse block an just pull fuse out of in-line fuse an that would kill all power to accessories.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PDX_F150
Hey David - Ya, that looks very much like what I was thinking - this is the block I was planning to buy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC

My concern is how to only have it powered when the ignition is in the ON position. Obviously, I don't want to tie all of that into the stock fuse box, with the one free ignition powered slot available. In reading, it looks like I want a relay(?) that will control power to the new fuse block, based on the ignition position. Does that make sense? But you're definitely doing exactly what I intended, in terms of powering my lightbar, LED pods, etc.
Like you said just put a 100 or 200 amp relay (depending on your load calcs) in between the battery and the fuse box using ignition as trigger.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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Ah ha! Ok, I get it. 1) 100A Relay, with a lead into the existing fuse block, on an accessory (Ignition powered) fuse. 2) BigAssWire (tm) into the relay, Fuse/Circuit breaker, and into the 3) new Fuse Block. So, when the old fuse block send an "ignition is on" powered signal to the new Relay, it then completes the circuit of my new BigAssWire powering my new fuse block. I think.

Amazon Amazon
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