William Leap

Hi All,

Sorry for a somewhat similar post but appreciate you taking a look. History and info: 2004 F150 5.4L with 163k. I purchased it back in 2015 with about 62k on it so they're are all my miles. 5,000 mile oil changes with high mileage synthetic.

I did plugs (listed below) about 4k miles ago and it's due for an oil change. It's run great since then and the random lugging under load at low RPM went away. I did Cam Position sensors at the same time.

• Autolite Part #: ASP HT15

The other day I was driving home from a quick 20 mile run to drop my dog off at a kennel. On the way home I was going about 65mph and noticed a slight tone/feel change in the truck. It was sudden and out of nowhere but was subtle and took me a minute to really catch on. About 3 miles later I pulled up to a light and could definitely tell the exhaust, idle, and sound was off. As I pulled up to a RED light the idle dropped to 500 and was mild/rough but quickly recovered. It still sounded off. Upon acceleration I could feel it was weaker and felt like it was missing lightly.

A few miles later closer to home and it felt like it was getting worse so I skipped Napa to get it home vs a scan. As I pulled up the Engine light blinked quickly several times and went off. I quickly pulled in and parked in a spot I could work on it.

Since I was leaving town I ordered a scan tool and a cheap set of COP's (since they would deliver by 5pm) to try a quick fix before I left. The latter part I should have waited on in hindsight.

I tried unplugging the VCT's which changed nothing. I tried both the cheapo and OEM COP's with no change either. I checked all the connections and even realigned one of the red gaskets on #1 connector which was off.

So here I am now and I'm getting (5) Codes:

• P0351, P0354, P0355:
  • Ignition Coil 'A' Primary Control Circuit Open
  • Ignition Coil 'D' Primary Control Circuit Open
  • Ignition Coil 'E' Primary Control Circuit Open
• P0010, P0020:
  • 'A' Camshaft Position Actuator 'A' Control Circuit/Open Bank 1
  • 'A' Camshaft Position Actuator 'A' Control Circuit/Open Bank 2

I still need to go through the wiring for the P03xx codes and recheck everything. But I can't find a lot of info or definitive answers on the P00xx codes above?

Is it more than likely the timing skipped (which the chain is due anyways) or what are the chances a PCM is the culprit. Is there an easy test I can do to rule out or diagnose?

I'm planning to do the timing chain but I'd rather not do the chain and find out it's the PCM or something else.

Thanks again in advance!

fjb2630

Make sure your plugs are tight and torqued.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Get the auto lights out of there, install motorcraft SP546 plugs and a new set of boots and springs on your original coil packs , clean them up with a nail file or like where the spring meets the coil. use a very small dab of grease inside the rubber boots to seal out moisture. make suer spark plug holes are clear prior to install.

laterongc

^ this. And double check your COP plug in connections. Make sure they click in. If tabs are broke, either replace connection, or get them clean and dry and use a little strip of duct tape so plugs can’t work loose.

needsmoarturbo

Make sure the coil connectors are clipped on tight as well as the vct solenoids both sides.

As for the autolite ht15s. I have had them in my truck for at least the last 4 years with no issues whatsoever so I wouldn't assume that's the problem

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Guess he could try boots and springs first with his original cops.

William Leap

I ended up doing new boots and springs which resolved the upper codes. I also did the timing chain and man was that something else. Did the VCTs, oil pump, and water pump while I was tearing into it. Collateral damage added the fan clutch. While wrenching away at the passenger side valve cover bolt, power steering bolt #3, and the oil pickup bolts I was day dreaming of whipping a Ford engineer.

Got a fresh oil change in and filled back up with coolant when done.

So here I am and boom fires up and purrrsss like a kitten. Until I revved it up a few times and it's still doing the low idle drop again. Pulled the VCTs to run it and still same issue. When I tore into it one of the guides was missing some pieces so I already know the pan has to come out so I can clean the oil pickup.

What are the possibilities that the pickup is blocked and it's messing with the oiling to cause these issues? I hoped unplugging the VCT solenoids and disabling them would keep it from throwing some codes again.

What are the chances it could it be the PCM?

I'm already in it about $1500 (including $175 in tools) and I'd like to get an idea of what other things it could be. I'm also about 20 hours into it (4 of which was the fan, tools, etc).

Also for just a rant from here on out......

I will say the Fordtechmukoloco videos helped. I still had to pull the PS pulley and drop the oil pan in the front to get to the oil pump pickup bolts. I also could not get the fan clutch loose with a pneumatic hammer and fan too ($125 wasted). Even with some heat and a helper tool to hold the pulley. I even chained the helper tool down and put a 6ft tube on a breaker. I broke the helper tool. Ended up taking off the pulley, taking a Dremel to the ridges of the nut so I could slide the pulley off and remove the water pump + fan clutch + fan with the shroud. I already had the water pump so I picked up a new fan clutch.

needsmoarturbo

Drop the pan if you had missing pieces there is no doubt there is crap in the pickup screen and your are risking all that work you just did for a couple hours of work to drop the pan and clean it out.
And in my experience the best way to remove the the fan is to put a wrench on f eor the bolts that fastens the pulley to the water pump and use that to wedge the pulley from spinning and then use a crescent.wrench on the clutch nut. No special tools required.

William Leap

Oh believe me, I know. I've made it 34 years without any special tools. I have an extra long bolt I usually use and swap out on of the shorter to hold it and put some leverage on a couple fan bolts and voila.

After taking it all off and cutting the clutch shaft in half it took almost all of the 26 gallon tank and impact for it to break loose on the bench vice.

Pans coming out tomorrow, already planned that. Gasket gets here on Thursday. Figured I'd give myself the extra time to really scrub the pan and re-paint it black.

Just wanted to get ahead on ordering/searching for parts if anyone had similar issues be a PCM, even after all this work.