found my rough idle issue
01-10-2013, 11:33 AM
#12
I haven't taken one apart yet. I plan to do mine this summer (I have the hot idle diesel noise) if the VCT solenoids with the updated smaller drain holes don't fix it. Just from looking at the Ford exploded diagrams, it appears that yes, you have to remove the phasers in order to get the VCT housings off... but I could be wrong. Only way you will know is if someone else who has replaced those gaskets responds. They are rarely done, however (though I think they should be done with EVERY phaser replacement). You will find out when you tear into it....
I want the extra tranny, motor and parts as my insurance policy for the next ten years... I did the same with my dodge rams and it was the smartest a thing I ever did....it only cost me $1500 for an extra ram! I still have them and they are both still running strong, both with over 200k miles on them...
01-10-2013, 12:22 PM
#13
Guys i recently did all this to my truck and my brothers truck and kid you not, we were all the way in the motor,phasers chains ect all off in 1HR! lol I got these motors down to a science.
I did post in the phaser fix thread my findings but again, i found the screens behind the vct housing to be partially plugged. USed new gaskets there. Locktighted the phaser bolts with blue loctite. I Also found that the Tensioners in the cloyes kit had one lil spot where the o-ring was not supported. Hard to believe, but next time you have one off look at the o ring groove. That one lil spot was i believe my main reason for the tick i still had after i did all the work the first time, and why i went back in with a fine tooth comb. Just a drop of super glue to hold the o ring in that one spot, and it has been 100% tick free since. I did use new dorman phasers as well.
SO anyway thats my suggestions. I also have 180k on mine so tick free is unreal to me for the milage... Have a good one gentlemen
I did post in the phaser fix thread my findings but again, i found the screens behind the vct housing to be partially plugged. USed new gaskets there. Locktighted the phaser bolts with blue loctite. I Also found that the Tensioners in the cloyes kit had one lil spot where the o-ring was not supported. Hard to believe, but next time you have one off look at the o ring groove. That one lil spot was i believe my main reason for the tick i still had after i did all the work the first time, and why i went back in with a fine tooth comb. Just a drop of super glue to hold the o ring in that one spot, and it has been 100% tick free since. I did use new dorman phasers as well.
SO anyway thats my suggestions. I also have 180k on mine so tick free is unreal to me for the milage... Have a good one gentlemen