Ernie Silverberg

As title reads, swapped my oil out tonight on my 2004 f150 5.4L. 104k miles.

Using 6 qts Full Synthetic with 1 qt Lucas. Have done this before with no issues.

Once everything was back in, I started truck up to bring oil back up and never built pressure and has a tap/slight knock sound. Pressure isnt going up and sound isnt going away.

Recently, I've noticed a small tick and tap more than usual (within the last two weeks) but nothing crazy loud.

I took the oil filter back off and there's no oil in it. I turned it over (didnt start) and no oil comes from the pump to the filter.

Any ideas?


I'm thinking either an oil pump or the pickup tube is clogged. This truck say for a few years before I purchased it but have flushed everything out and has seemed to be fine. Please note I do have the cam noises hear and there with a slight hum. Also have a over-retarded code from them as well. This only affects the truck at idle (lower RPM than usual). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

redfishtd

Drop the oil pan check for plastic pieces of guides jamming oil pickup . If so you need to do timing job and maybe a new melling 340/360 oil pump .

Ernie Silverberg

Started looking up kits as we speak, any suggestions on doing it economically beneficial but still good quality? I know you get what you pay for but I don't have a grand to drop on it right now.

nrivera04

People seem to have had good results with Cloye's timing kits. A lot are also going to the Iron tensioners over the olastic. As far as phasers are concerned, I'd use nothing less than OEM (these are going to be the bulk of your expense). Dorman phasers have been failing with as little as 5-10K on them.

Not what you want to hear for not having the money right now, but if you're going to open it up, you need to do it all. Do it right the first time and avoid the short term band aids.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

^^ Great advice

BadFish523

This^ but also go with only OEM on the VCT solenoids as well. Like he said if you cheap out it will cost you more in the long run and you will likely have the same problems shortly.

TurnKey

Seems odd to have oil pressure fail just after an oil change. I know it seems silly but you sure you put the plug in before you filled the oil, did you possibly drain the new oil right in the pan? I knew a guy that did it so don't laugh... (Not me).

I'd also put another new filter on just in case.

Ernie Silverberg

So the great news is, my oil pump is good. The bad news is, my oil pick up was clogged with plastic pieces.

Do I put everything back together and drive until I can afford the OEM parts?

Or do I use a non-OEM, change timing and cams for now and save up to replace with OEM?

I already have a code for over-retarded from cam issues. Truck runs fine except has a low idle. I'm thinking doing non-OEM to get it back to running normal and save up for OEM. I only drive it about 30 miles a day for work (thats to and back)

Ernie Silverberg

Other good news, due to my truck being lifted (I guess), I did not have to lift engine or drop axle to get pan out. All I had to do was remove crossmember and sway. I had to remove pickup while pan was up but wasn't too hard!

Kevinpmac

Was my first thought as well.