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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:04 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by 2002VertGt
I understand. I'm down to the hard stuff ATM but I've ripped engines apart before. Just mostly broke ones for fun :P. I have my dad coming over I help fix the timing shiot once it's all tore apart and I have s_vares on motherf'ing speedial! Incase anything doesn't look right.
i show the mechanic this story as well it really help him understand what we are trying to accomplish s_vares did a great job making everyone aware of this
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by hannen
S_vares.
Thank you for all the great info.
I'm in the process of trying to narrow down my own 5.4l noises.
I've had several 5.4's in the past and always just lived with the noises.
How ever I got another one that's new to me recently.
2005 screw with 180k miles on it. I bought it with high miles. Just a good deal.
The engine runs with no noise at all besides the injectors. Quietest one I've heard pretty much.
How ever it has a very quick and loud sound (never the same twice) that sounds like all the parts you've describe for replace in the posts above.
Just wondering if you have ever had a 5.4 that can some time sound like the cam timing is all over the place and valves floating everywhere upon start up. Then run perfectly with zero knock or anything questionable after oil pressure gets through the engine.
I am preparing to do the cam phasers, chains and tentioners. Just don't want to be attacking the wrong thing.
Any input you can offer would be great as far as how to verify that those parts are the cause of the problem.
Thanks again for taking the time to put up all the info. I'm sure it will make the job go a lot better.

Thanks ahead.

Cheers
on cold startup hearing some chain noise has become a somewhat normal on newer OHC engines with chains.
Reason is, after sitting, tesioners slack and the chain becomes loose. This will me noticed more so on older engines that have chain strectch and aging tensioners.
You may also be hearing lash adjuster bleed down. After a few seconds they pump back up.
This is the reason why you hear all these people speak of using OEM motorcraft filters (I often use WIX or Napa Gold as well)
They have a superior anti drainback valve which helps with these cold starts and alows the various hydralics to pump up faster.
if your getting rattle at startup, a new chain and set may or may not fix it. With your milage I would do a chain regardless.
Just because timing chain engines dont have an interval to replace, does not mean they last forever. I usually say 150,000 miles to be safe.

Hope this helps
-Steve
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:08 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by 2002VertGt
I understand. I'm down to the hard stuff ATM but I've ripped engines apart before. Just mostly broke ones for fun :P. I have my dad coming over I help fix the timing shiot once it's all tore apart and I have s_vares on motherf'ing speedial! Incase anything doesn't look right.

Hahaha, too bad I wasnt closer, eh? <----- in Canada
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by '05 F-150
i show the mechanic this story as well it really help him understand what we are trying to accomplish s_vares did a great job making everyone aware of this
How is your coming along? Do you have any updates??
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #85  
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starting monday will keep you guys posted, i might be PM you just to keep him on his toes
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 02:40 PM
  #86  
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Well done to all you guys doing this work yourself or at least researching this issue on here before throwing money at Ford to change phasers.

I have to lump on some more praise for Steve (S_Varres) he has pretty much driven this thread and kept a lot of us on the right path.

I totally agree with his thinking of do this type of job right first time, which means doing it all! Timing gear and rockers and lifters......I never want to take that damned passenger side rocker cover off again! Ever!

I used Ford parts as I wanted to them quicly and my local place in Houston did a good job of getting stuff quickly and I got 20% so called discount. All in, I think I spent about $2000 in parts and AC recharge.

Phasers x2
Chains x 2
Guides both sides
Tensioners x 2
Bottom sprocket
Lash adjusters x 23
Rockers x 24
Oil x 2
Oil Filter
Air Filter
Throttle body cleaner
Cam phaser solenoids x 2
Solenoid seals x 2
Spark plugs x 8
A/C recharge

Oil selction and Motorcraft filter is essential too!

I have 170,000 and the engine is as quiet now as brand new truck.

I ended up changing the injectors and seals too. You may find the higher mileage engines need to relearn the idle etc after diconnecting the battery, so be ready to give that a good clean.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #87  
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I have printed all material from this thread and put it in a binder so i can refer back to it
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #88  
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Keep posting your success stories, tips and tricks are great too. Helps us all out, even if you take it to a shop, good to know fair going rates and what parts were found damaged and worn!

as always, PM me or text me if you need advice.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by s_vares
Keep posting your success stories, tips and tricks are great too. Helps us all out, even if you take it to a shop, good to know fair going rates and what parts were found damaged and worn!

as always, PM me or text me if you need advice.
Just remember if you are in the states and do not have a plan capable of calling Canada you WILL be charged!!!! Lol :SMH:
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #90  
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Here is a good one for you all. My wife and I just bought a 05 expedition with the 5.4L. I knew of the cam phaser problems, so when we bought it the shop had just done the phasers, chains, guides, arms. It has 118300 miles on it. We bought it and drove MAYBE 300 miles since its our second vehicle. Well the noise came back, along with it running really rough when fully warm. It also dies on us when we let off the gas when its fully warm, which kind of sucks in rush hour traffic. So I took it back to the place that worked on it the first time. They open it back up and say the tensioners are bad and replace them. They drive it about 30 miles and same thing. So they end up taking it to ford and ford hooks it up the their idf or whatever computer. Incorrect timing bank 1 and low oil pressure causing the cam phasers to not work correctly. They say we need a new engine.
So since everything with the timing has been changed and they have to retime it, should I have them look at the lash adjusters and all that. They said they looked at the vct sensors and they had the screens on them still and they "cleaned out" the valve body under them. They also said one of the guides were broken when they fixed it, so could that of went to the oil pump and not pieces are getting clogged on the pick up screen?
They said they hooked up a manual pressure gauge and it was all over the place, but never got under the 12 psi to put it into low oil pressure mode or whatever. As of right now I am stumped and am a little pi**ed that they say we need a engine with not even 119K miles on it and only maybe 500 miles from us.
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