The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Sheep Dog
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 330
OK, I read through this entire thread and have some questions:
1. How difficult is it to remove the brake booster vacuum line from above the driver side valve cover? It looks like that has to get out of the way in order to get the valve cover off.
2. Can the valve timing solenoids be removed from the valve covers without taking the covers off? I removed the electrical plug from the passenger side solenoid, but I do not see any bolt there? It looks like two plastic tabs keep the solenoid positioned in the valve cover- do you just pry up on those? The part pictures I've seen show a bolt on these, so I'm confused as to how they come out. It would seem better if they could be removed without taking the cover off, but engineers often don't think about maintenance when designing parts.
3. It seems that this entire problem starts because of low oil pressure on the upper half of the engine, most likely do to leaking seals on the cam chain tensioners due to a defective design/materials by Ford. I'm assuming that the tensioners have been improved in design/materials so that the same problem doesn't happen again in ~60K miles?
4. Would it be advantageous to upgrade the oil pump to a high flow / high pressure pump to ensure that there will always be enough oil pressure on the upper end to operate the phasers correctly? Or, would that cause problems by blowing out the new tensioner seals?
5. I've seen that the VVT solenoids have screens on them that can become torn or clogged. On another vehicle I have, a 2008 VW Passat 2.0T FSI, I add moly to the oil on every other oil change. This is because on this direct injection engine, there is a high pressure fuel pump that is driven by a flat tappet off the cam 3X on every cam rotation. The pressures generated on this flat tappet are extreme- in fact it has a moly coating from the factory but too often that also fails. Sometimes the cam chews right through the tappet and starts eating the fuel pump rod before a problem is noted. Now, no such extreme pressures exist inside the 5.4L Ford, however there are MANY more friction surfaces in this engine being a V8 vs I4. I would think a moly additive would help this engine with longevity as well, but I don't want to take the chance of clogging up the VVT solenoid screens. The additive I use is Liqui Moly and is specifically made for use in engine oil.
Excellent thread!!! Thank you very much! I just bought a 2005 Lariat Screw 4x4 and think I have this issue (diesel sound). As this is not my daily driver, it's probably something I'll tackle this summer.
1. How difficult is it to remove the brake booster vacuum line from above the driver side valve cover? It looks like that has to get out of the way in order to get the valve cover off.
2. Can the valve timing solenoids be removed from the valve covers without taking the covers off? I removed the electrical plug from the passenger side solenoid, but I do not see any bolt there? It looks like two plastic tabs keep the solenoid positioned in the valve cover- do you just pry up on those? The part pictures I've seen show a bolt on these, so I'm confused as to how they come out. It would seem better if they could be removed without taking the cover off, but engineers often don't think about maintenance when designing parts.
3. It seems that this entire problem starts because of low oil pressure on the upper half of the engine, most likely do to leaking seals on the cam chain tensioners due to a defective design/materials by Ford. I'm assuming that the tensioners have been improved in design/materials so that the same problem doesn't happen again in ~60K miles?
4. Would it be advantageous to upgrade the oil pump to a high flow / high pressure pump to ensure that there will always be enough oil pressure on the upper end to operate the phasers correctly? Or, would that cause problems by blowing out the new tensioner seals?
5. I've seen that the VVT solenoids have screens on them that can become torn or clogged. On another vehicle I have, a 2008 VW Passat 2.0T FSI, I add moly to the oil on every other oil change. This is because on this direct injection engine, there is a high pressure fuel pump that is driven by a flat tappet off the cam 3X on every cam rotation. The pressures generated on this flat tappet are extreme- in fact it has a moly coating from the factory but too often that also fails. Sometimes the cam chews right through the tappet and starts eating the fuel pump rod before a problem is noted. Now, no such extreme pressures exist inside the 5.4L Ford, however there are MANY more friction surfaces in this engine being a V8 vs I4. I would think a moly additive would help this engine with longevity as well, but I don't want to take the chance of clogging up the VVT solenoid screens. The additive I use is Liqui Moly and is specifically made for use in engine oil.
Excellent thread!!! Thank you very much! I just bought a 2005 Lariat Screw 4x4 and think I have this issue (diesel sound). As this is not my daily driver, it's probably something I'll tackle this summer.
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Richmond BC
[QUOTE=VTX1800N1;2203531]OK, I read through this entire thread and have some questions:
1. How difficult is it to remove the brake booster vacuum line from above the driver side valve cover? It looks like that has to get out of the way in order to get the valve cover off.
2. Can the valve timing solenoids be removed from the valve covers without taking the covers off? I removed the electrical plug from the passenger side solenoid, but I do not see any bolt there? It looks like two plastic tabs keep the solenoid positioned in the valve cover- do you just pry up on those? The part pictures I've seen show a bolt on these, so I'm confused as to how they come out. It would seem better if they could be removed without taking the cover off, but engineers often don't think about maintenance when designing parts.
You don't have to remove the brake booster vacuum line on the passenger side there is tons of room to remove the cover and yes you can remove your solenoid with out removing your valve cover. If you use a light and look in side towards the front of the engine beside the solenoid is a torx headed bolt in there. when you undo it it is designed not to fall out so you can just undo it it with out worries. But use caution anyways, I lift the solenoid up as I unscrew it.
1. How difficult is it to remove the brake booster vacuum line from above the driver side valve cover? It looks like that has to get out of the way in order to get the valve cover off.
2. Can the valve timing solenoids be removed from the valve covers without taking the covers off? I removed the electrical plug from the passenger side solenoid, but I do not see any bolt there? It looks like two plastic tabs keep the solenoid positioned in the valve cover- do you just pry up on those? The part pictures I've seen show a bolt on these, so I'm confused as to how they come out. It would seem better if they could be removed without taking the cover off, but engineers often don't think about maintenance when designing parts.
You don't have to remove the brake booster vacuum line on the passenger side there is tons of room to remove the cover and yes you can remove your solenoid with out removing your valve cover. If you use a light and look in side towards the front of the engine beside the solenoid is a torx headed bolt in there. when you undo it it is designed not to fall out so you can just undo it it with out worries. But use caution anyways, I lift the solenoid up as I unscrew it.
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 77
Likes: 6
From: North of where you are
I can asnswer a few questions
Hi VTX..I am currently finishing this project repair and can answer a few of your questions. I have a 2004 Lariat 5.4
1. I just disconnected the brake booster line from the booster itself. Moved it to one side and I had more than enough room to remove the valve cover.
2. I had to remove the plastic covers from the valve cover to access the torx screw located inside next to the solenoid. I pried up on the cover on both sides and pulled straight up. It was a bugger but it came off eventually. Now with mine, with the aid of some light, I placed a torx headed socket into the hole and unfastened the bolt. The bolt will not come out by itself. It is fastened to the solenoid body. Once undone, just pull the solenoid straight out.
3. I just purchased chain tensioners from Rock Auto. They are made by Cloyes. Part numbers #95432 and #95433. I examined these and they are a enourmous improvement over factory installed ones. The gasket appears to much stronger and I believe will last quite a bit longer than the factory installed tensioners.
As for the other questions, I for one did not change my oil pump. It is personal preference. Mine appeared to be working fine before the repair. It's up to you.
I do not use any additives. Again it is personal choice. Maybe others could give their opinions or experience. I just use the factory recommended oil and filter and change when it is required.
Hope this helps you out. Sorry I couldn't answer all of your questions. Good Luck....Spike
1. I just disconnected the brake booster line from the booster itself. Moved it to one side and I had more than enough room to remove the valve cover.
2. I had to remove the plastic covers from the valve cover to access the torx screw located inside next to the solenoid. I pried up on the cover on both sides and pulled straight up. It was a bugger but it came off eventually. Now with mine, with the aid of some light, I placed a torx headed socket into the hole and unfastened the bolt. The bolt will not come out by itself. It is fastened to the solenoid body. Once undone, just pull the solenoid straight out.
3. I just purchased chain tensioners from Rock Auto. They are made by Cloyes. Part numbers #95432 and #95433. I examined these and they are a enourmous improvement over factory installed ones. The gasket appears to much stronger and I believe will last quite a bit longer than the factory installed tensioners.
As for the other questions, I for one did not change my oil pump. It is personal preference. Mine appeared to be working fine before the repair. It's up to you.
I do not use any additives. Again it is personal choice. Maybe others could give their opinions or experience. I just use the factory recommended oil and filter and change when it is required.
Hope this helps you out. Sorry I couldn't answer all of your questions. Good Luck....Spike
Sheep Dog
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 330
Thanks for answering my questions! One more, if you don't mind; has it been confirmed that leaking tensioners and the resulting malfunctioning cam phasers cost power and mileage, and to what degree? My'05 has 70K miles and the diesel noise when hot (can't hear it at all with a cold engine, so I'm sure it's not a collapsed lifter) and will easily spin the tires in 2WD on dry pavement from a stop if I floor it. It seems to have plenty of power other than on the top end. Maybe that's where the bad phasers are costing me? I get about 16 MPG highway but the only fuel we have here is E10, so that doesn't help.
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Richmond BC
I never noticed the lack of power till i changed all the parts in question. Truck seemed to run great just noisy, but after you do the work and drive it you can feel a difference. you don't lose that much power that you can't spin your wheels but you do loose power just not sure how much. And for the fuel economy well yet to see but it does seem better . the loss of power also made it so I was not able to back up with a 21 ft trailer hooked up and if you were to just tap the gas at a stand still it would start running retarded. now the problem seems to have gone away 
hopefully lol 
hopefully lol
Sheep Dog
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 330
Also, I might have missed it somewhere in the 60 pages of this thread, but in this post: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...6/#post1490040
...parts 23 and 26 have no part number listed. They are the VCT housing gaskets. I'm guessing those (looking at the picture) and the front crank seal are included in this kit: If I'm going to get this deep into it, I'll want to replace those gaskets as well just to avoid any problems.
...parts 23 and 26 have no part number listed. They are the VCT housing gaskets. I'm guessing those (looking at the picture) and the front crank seal are included in this kit: If I'm going to get this deep into it, I'll want to replace those gaskets as well just to avoid any problems.
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 10
From: Richmond BC
Also, I might have missed it somewhere in the 60 pages of this thread, but in this post: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...6/#post1490040
...parts 23 and 26 have no part number listed. They are the VCT housing gaskets. I'm guessing those (looking at the picture) and the front crank seal are included in this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Tcs460...I30C5ZULBXI1UD If I'm going to get this deep into it, I'll want to replace those gaskets as well just to avoid any problems.
...parts 23 and 26 have no part number listed. They are the VCT housing gaskets. I'm guessing those (looking at the picture) and the front crank seal are included in this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Tcs460...I30C5ZULBXI1UD If I'm going to get this deep into it, I'll want to replace those gaskets as well just to avoid any problems.
Ok those parts 23 and 26 don't play a factor. They don't come in the kit and you don't take it apart that far down, that is just the manufacturers exploded view of whats in there I believe. The crank shaft seal does come in the kit, I ordered on seperate just to find out there was one in the kit