The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
I am going to change or drop that oil pan and clean it out good I first looked at that I thought it was gonna be a lot tougher than it is so thank you for the encouragement.https://www.f150forum.com/members/ne...rturbo-324439/
Last edited by Phillip cash is king; Dec 14, 2024 at 11:21 AM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
pretty sure its 122 times to get back to the same spot.
I haven't thought to hard about the math, but I could make up an equation that seems to fit, I have some books to reference later I could look at the correct relation.
# of links x (driven teeth/driving teeth) = number of turns
61x2=122
I haven't thought to hard about the math, but I could make up an equation that seems to fit, I have some books to reference later I could look at the correct relation.
# of links x (driven teeth/driving teeth) = number of turns
61x2=122
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
Well I did finally get the truck back together last night. I left the crankshaft sensor disconnected until I got oil pressure up. I had 60 lbs of pressure while cracking over that I unplugged the sensor back in start the truck it had to spit and sputter a bit, then it smoothed out. But it has a loud tap that it didn't have before. Using a stethoscope it is very hard to tell it appears to be on the right bank toward the back ( wouldn't you know it) I am hoping I had a roller follower pop out because I didn't have it seated right. But not very well convinced of this I don't know just why that would be making the tap. And besides the tab it runs pretty smooth. Anybody got any advice before I pull that valve cover I sure would appreciate it. Another point I'll mention is it doesn't seem to have much exhaust pressure.
Last edited by Phillip cash is king; Jan 2, 2025 at 01:03 PM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
It was a roller follower making that tapping noise amazing how easy that right side valve Cam cover came off and went back on this time kind of finding where the buttons in the zippers are I guess now it runs just smooth this I've ever seen it run no tapping noises at all but I still gotta miss.
Think I've got to get into the forescan and learned how to use that but overall I am real happy with the we just turned out I'll find that miss and clean it up. Thanks for all the help
Think I've got to get into the forescan and learned how to use that but overall I am real happy with the we just turned out I'll find that miss and clean it up. Thanks for all the help
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
From: San diego ca
Now lets put it back together!!! This guide is for use with new parts (chain, tesioner and guides. Some steps changed if reusing parts... but DONT DO THAT, we are trying to fix your engine)
Install the camshaft variable timing sprocket assembly and loosely install a new bolt and washer.
CAUTION: Only use hand tools to install the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly or damage may occur to the camshaft or camshaft phaser unit.
CAUTION: Damage to the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly will occur if mishandled or used as a lifting or leveraging device.
Attachment 504380
Attachment 504381
Install guides and torque.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, making sure the flange faces forward.
Attachment 504382
Position the lower end of the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.
NOTE: Make sure the upper half of the timing chain is below the tensioner arm dowel.
Attachment 504383
Position the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.
NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.
Attachment 504384
Position the LH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the LH timing chain tensioner.
Remove the retaining clip from the LH timing chain tensioner.
Attachment 504385
Position the lower end of the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the single copper (marked) chain link.
NOTE: The lower half of the timing chain must be positioned above the tensioner arm dowel.
Attachment 504386
Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Make sure the camshaft sprocket timing mark is positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.
Attachment 504387
Note: The camshaft phaser and sprocket will be stamped with one of the illustrated timing marks for the RH camshaft.
Position the RH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the RH timing chain tensioner.
Remove the retaining clip from the RH timing chain tensioner.
NOTE: Both camshaft phaser sprockets are identical, refer to the R timing mark to identify the RH camshaft phaser sprocket and the L timing mark to identify the LH camshaft phaser sprocket.
Attachment 504388
As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks. Make sure the R and L timing marks on the sprockets correspond with the above note.
Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
Attachment 504389
NEXT I WILL POST PART NUMBERS AND ROCK AUTO PRICES
Install the camshaft variable timing sprocket assembly and loosely install a new bolt and washer.
CAUTION: Only use hand tools to install the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly or damage may occur to the camshaft or camshaft phaser unit.
CAUTION: Damage to the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly will occur if mishandled or used as a lifting or leveraging device.
Attachment 504380
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Attachment 504381
Install guides and torque.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, making sure the flange faces forward.
Attachment 504382
Position the lower end of the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.
NOTE: Make sure the upper half of the timing chain is below the tensioner arm dowel.
Attachment 504383
Position the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.
NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.
Attachment 504384
Position the LH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the LH timing chain tensioner.
Remove the retaining clip from the LH timing chain tensioner.
Attachment 504385
Position the lower end of the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the single copper (marked) chain link.
NOTE: The lower half of the timing chain must be positioned above the tensioner arm dowel.
Attachment 504386
Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Make sure the camshaft sprocket timing mark is positioned between the two copper (marked) chain links.
Attachment 504387
Note: The camshaft phaser and sprocket will be stamped with one of the illustrated timing marks for the RH camshaft.
Position the RH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the RH timing chain tensioner.
Remove the retaining clip from the RH timing chain tensioner.
NOTE: Both camshaft phaser sprockets are identical, refer to the R timing mark to identify the RH camshaft phaser sprocket and the L timing mark to identify the LH camshaft phaser sprocket.
Attachment 504388
As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks. Make sure the R and L timing marks on the sprockets correspond with the above note.
Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
Attachment 504389
NEXT I WILL POST PART NUMBERS AND ROCK AUTO PRICES
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
OK so working on that miss and it looks like it was a fuel injector in the number 4 hole. So I changed that injector and then I got a bunch of new codes. po201 po204 po206 po208.
I was told that it was a common mistake when doing a timing job on these where you have to get the valve covers off , to accidentally get the wiring harness that goes down to the transmission in a position where it can get on the exhaust. That seems to be practical advice the only problem is I can't find a bad spot in my wiring harness. I haven't actually pulled the wiring harness out but I just thought I'd see what you guys think, am I on the right track? See my earlier posts up above.
I was told that it was a common mistake when doing a timing job on these where you have to get the valve covers off , to accidentally get the wiring harness that goes down to the transmission in a position where it can get on the exhaust. That seems to be practical advice the only problem is I can't find a bad spot in my wiring harness. I haven't actually pulled the wiring harness out but I just thought I'd see what you guys think, am I on the right track? See my earlier posts up above.
Last edited by Phillip cash is king; Jan 15, 2025 at 07:52 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 1,090
From: utah
OK so working on that mess and it looks like it was a fuel injector in the number 4 hold. So I changed that injector and then I got a bunch of new codes. po201 po204 po206 po208.
I was told that it was a common mistake when doing a timing job on these where you have to get the valve covers off , to accidentally get the wiring harness that goes down to the transmission in a position where it can get on the exhaust. That seems to be practical advice the only problem is I can't find a bad spot in my wiring harness. I haven't actually pulled the wiring harness out but I just thought I'd see what you guys think, am I on the right track? See my earlier posts up above.
I was told that it was a common mistake when doing a timing job on these where you have to get the valve covers off , to accidentally get the wiring harness that goes down to the transmission in a position where it can get on the exhaust. That seems to be practical advice the only problem is I can't find a bad spot in my wiring harness. I haven't actually pulled the wiring harness out but I just thought I'd see what you guys think, am I on the right track? See my earlier posts up above.
Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 59
Likes: 2
Thank you for the reply and that would be great if that was where it's at I do have one injector that has a bad clip on it but the problem is there is no fire at the injector in other words if I hook up a node light to the injector wiring connectors that I got the codes on there is no electric too light up the node light. I probably should have said that earlier. The way I understand the po201 code is that it is an open circuit on the number one cylinder injector. I really need to find a schematic or diagram that'll show me what pen the injector is on. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Phillip cash is king; Jan 15, 2025 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Incomplete
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Ever since hearing my first 5.4 Tick, I have been online looking for an answer.
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Ever since hearing my first 5.4 Tick, I have been online looking for an answer.
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
Thank you for the reply and that would be great if that was where it's at I do have one injector that has a bad clip on it but the problem is there is no fire at the injector in other words if I hook up a node light to the injector wiring connectors that I got the codes on there is no electric too light up the node light. I probably should have said that earlier. The way I understand the po201 code is that it is an open circuit on the number one cylinder injector. I really need to find a schematic or diagram that'll show me what pen the injector is on. Any help would be appreciated.