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Philip, the inside of your engine looks pretty poorly maintained indeed.
Here is a closeup of the RH tensioner seal after removal. You can clearly see a missing piece and there were no remnants on the block. I have only heard of this seal leaking, but it's possible it could leak elsewhere. If you are installing new ones, I would not be too concerned. Damaged Tensioner seal
Your cam Journals do not look good either... I found 1 burr on my camshaft and associated groove in the caps. I just removed the burr with emory cloth and put it back together. If you get decent oil pressure when you start it, I'd leave it alone, The alternative is to replace the cams & heads. Burr
Regarding your pickup tube, did you observe broken guides or other parts that may be clogging the pickup screen? If NO, and you are only concerned about the screen being clogged with sludge AND you don't want to remove the oil pan, you could blow thru the exposed end of the pickup tube with compressed air after you remove the pump and maybe pour some solvent down the tube and make sure it is not clogged. (remove the drain plug when doing this) I too did not wish to tackle the oil pan.
only concern I would have is that it was not getting oil at all on that tensioner thank you for your reply
If you had any missing pieces of chain guides, DROP THE PAN. If you don't clean out the pan and the pickup screen you're just asking to waste all the time and money doing the timing if it starves for oil.
If you had any missing pieces of chain guides, DROP THE PAN. If you don't clean out the pan and the pickup screen you're just asking to waste all the time and money doing the timing if it starves for oil.
I'm sure this is good advice I have flushed the oil pan and back flushed the pickup tube. And I did take all the bolts out of the pan and drop it down as far as I could. I'm just not sure exactly what it would take to get the oil pan completely out. I really think I would pull the motor at this point. I suppose I should make a note that this is a 4x4
If you dont drop the pan any then I hope you have the patience in the removing & re-installing the pickup bolts to the pump (only finger room).
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Kind of a strange thing I go to order cam cover and my cam cover has 14 or 15 bolts and all the cam covers that I have been able to find to order I think they are 10 bolt I guess the 10 bolt will work in place of the older cover. Has anybody had an experience with this?
Kind of a strange thing I go to order cam cover and my cam cover has 14 or 15 bolts and all the cam covers that I have been able to find to order I think they are 10 bolt I guess the 10 bolt will work in place of the older cover. Has anybody had an experience with this?
Yeah, they did a part revision in like 08 or something the newer ones don't have as many bolts as the older ones.
Something to be aware of though.
is the newer ones Im pretty sure you have to put the vct solenoid in before installing the cover. And vise versa when removing the cover. In other words you can't access the solenoid screw with the cover on already because the seal is smaller diameter.
I'm sure this is good advice I have flushed the oil pan and back flushed the pickup tube. And I did take all the bolts out of the pan and drop it down as far as I could. I'm just not sure exactly what it would take to get the oil pan completely out. I really think I would pull the motor at this point. I suppose I should make a note that this is a 4x4
It's really not that hard to drop the pan. You have to drop the cross member under the pan, and remove the passenger side bolt that holds the front axle to the frame, then it will sag down enough to get the pan out.
I really would just like to understand how this works better. I pulled the gears the crankshaft in the Cam and I take the chain and I lay it on the table so the timing marks are in the right place. And I start to rotate as if it was on the engine. Now in my little pea brain I imagined that if I turned it to full turns it would be back to where I started on the timing marks, but that's not the case I can rotate this several times and it never comes back to where I the timing marks on the chain aligned with the marks on gears. I thought that the Cam gears would be twice as many teeth as the crankshaft gear. And they are 21 teeth and 42 teeth. So I thought that I would rotate the engine 4-5 maybe 6 times and it would come back around where the timing marks were like when I started. but it doesn't seem to be working that way. Although it really seems like it should. Is there anybody that can explain the math on that for me. And I guess you would need to know that there are 61 chain links. Yeah this is just for fun
Last edited by Phillip cash is king; Dec 12, 2024 at 03:05 PM.
I really would just like to understand how this works better. I pulled the gears the crankshaft in the Cam and I take the chain and I lay it on the table so the timing marks are in the right place. And I start to rotate as if it was on the engine. Now in my little pea brain I imagined that if I turned it to full turns it would be back to where I started on the timing marks, but that's not the case I can rotate this several times and it never comes back to where I the timing marks on the chain aligned with the marks on gears. I thought that the Cam gears would be twice as many teeth as the crankshaft gear. And they are 21 teeth and 42 teeth. So I thought that I would rotate the engine 4-5 maybe 6 times and it would come back around where the timing marks were like when I started. but it doesn't seem to be working that way. Although it really seems like it should. Is there anybody that can explain the math on that for me. And I guess you would need to know that there are 61 chain links. Yeah this is just for fun
pretty sure its 122 times to get back to the same spot.
I haven't thought to hard about the math, but I could make up an equation that seems to fit, I have some books to reference later I could look at the correct relation.
# of links x (driven teeth/driving teeth) = number of turns
61x2=122
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one.
I originally installed the driver side chain with the keyway in the 12:00 position and the link perfectly aligned with the dot on the crank sprocket. When I installed the passenger chain, I had to guess if the link would be aligned on the crank sprocket because the dot was not aligned. With your same logic, I decided to rotate the assembly by hand to see if all marks would align, but no.... I rotated the assembly about 20 times and finally gave up. (This is with the plugs still in as I did not want to deal with broken plugs)
I did not think they would ever align again, so I finally pulled the chains back off, used the Crank position tool which places the DOT in a position where both links will be aligned with the dot, and then just rotated a few more times to make sure there was no interference.
