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I'm also thinking, since i've got some time prior to being able to source a reman engine, might as well use it as a learning experience, so I think i'm going to pull the oil pan and check those bearings as suggested and then pull the passenger head. Doubt it changes any plans, but who knows, maybe I get lucky and it looks like I could slap a used head on it and get another 12 months to save up for an engine. Plus I figure the more I remove, the easier pulling the rest of the engine will be :-) correct me if I'm wrong on that due to balance or anything else from anyone who's done a swap.
I'm also thinking, since i've got some time prior to being able to source a reman engine, might as well use it as a learning experience, so I think i'm going to pull the oil pan and check those bearings as suggested and then pull the passenger head. Doubt it changes any plans, but who knows, maybe I get lucky and it looks like I could slap a used head on it and get another 12 months to save up for an engine. Plus I figure the more I remove, the easier pulling the rest of the engine will be :-) correct me if I'm wrong on that due to balance or anything else from anyone who's done a swap.
had to swap mine and I pulled a lot of stuff off before pulling the engine. After that it was pretty easy and when we put in the replacement I got a lift attachment to tip the engine and made the installation much easier. I had everything but the intake on before installation but that was simple to put on afterwards. Pretty easy after all was said and done
hey man me and my dad just tried doing this job . but once we turned on truck i just wouldnt start shaking pretty bad.. what do you think it could be ?
Just did my 2006 FX4. All ford parts, melling 340HV, ford racing roller followers and lash adjusters and ford waterpump. A very involved job, but man that engine is smooth and quiet now. Not as hard as I thought. Fordtechmakuloco videos were great. At 136K, I just had phaser knock...no guides were broken, all roller followers were fine, though the lash adjusters were kind of weak I think, but not an issue. Glad I did it the way I did it. I used the Ares valve tool and it was cumbersome, OEM probably is worth it. Thanks to all on this thread as I read through the whole thing.
I also performed the same job last week and noticed a quieter running motor.
I purchased the valve tool but never used it as it appeared it would be too time consuming. I also did not use the Phaser holding tool, impact gun worked fine to get the final 90 degree turn on both cam bolts.. To replace the rockers and lash adjusters, I pulled each camshaft and installed the new items, then just reinstalled the cam with these items in place. There was another video I followed from Valley Mobile Automotive that I followed and those tools were not used. He aligned the camshaft with the chain by positioning the cam with a wrench. I did use the crank positioning tool that Fordtechmakuloco recommended to align the crank when installing the chains.
AC lines did not need to be evacuated, I simply unbolted where they were connected to the body and tied them out of the way. This included unbolting the dryer assembly to get additional clearance for the left valve cover. VCT Solenoids were also replaced.
Inspection of parts showed passenger tensioner seal damage and one of the VCT solenoid screen was loose.
The most difficult task I encountered was installing the inner bolt for the oil pump..... I wasted about 2 hours trying to get that bolt started.
I completed this job over a 5 day span. Hope to get another 150K out of this engine.
I’m in the process of this timing job on my 2004 F 150 5.4 3 valve
Just do have it tore down now and I found this form thank you Steve for starting this Thread.
I see there has been quite a bit of interest in this subject
The first thing I need to do that I didn’t expect is to find a good way to repair this valve cover where the coil screw goes into the valve cover . Passenger side has three of those screw holes that have split open so that now they won’t hold the screw that holds the coil.
Hoping that someone has a cure for this. See the pictures
This motor has been very poorly maintained when I rebuilt the transmission I found the tube plug in the pan which indicates the oil has never been changed in the transmission at 180,000 miles. Looking at the inside of this engine I have to wonder how many times the oil has been changed.
The question I have for you guys is when I first got the timing cover off it looked like the tensioner on the right hand side probably blew a gasket and lost pressure. After I took the tensioner off and looked at the gasket it didn’t look like others that I have seen pictures of where a section of the gasket was missing.
So I’m wondering if these tensioners fail internally or just what may have happened there.
The Cam towers and caps did show excessive wear there is even a place or two that I could catch my fingernail. I understand that’s an indication that the grooves are 10 thousands or more. The Cam did fit tightly in the caps and towers with the rockers removed, no vertical or horizontal movement noticed.
Both cams look about the same.
I am replacing the oil pump but I didn't want to replace the pickup tube on that 4 wheel drive. your comments please Pretty dirty right? I suppose that gasket could have been leaking
Philip, the inside of your engine looks pretty poorly maintained indeed.
Here is a closeup of the RH tensioner seal after removal. You can clearly see a missing piece and there were no remnants on the block. I have only heard of this seal leaking, but it's possible it could leak elsewhere. If you are installing new ones, I would not be too concerned. Damaged Tensioner seal
Your cam Journals do not look good either... I found 1 burr on my camshaft and associated groove in the caps. I just removed the burr with emory cloth and put it back together. If you get decent oil pressure when you start it, I'd leave it alone, The alternative is to replace the cams & heads. Burr
Regarding your pickup tube, did you observe broken guides or other parts that may be clogging the pickup screen? If NO, and you are only concerned about the screen being clogged with sludge AND you don't want to remove the oil pan, you could blow thru the exposed end of the pickup tube with compressed air after you remove the pump and maybe pour some solvent down the tube and make sure it is not clogged. (remove the drain plug when doing this) I too did not wish to tackle the oil pan.
