There is an aluminum oil filter adapter attached below the PS pump. Coolant and oil flow through this adapter. Really idiotic design, IMHO because failure of the gasket could cause contamination of your oil with coolant. As I recall, this adapter is attached with 3 or four 8MM bolts. I replaced the bolts with three SS studs so I could slide a new FelPro gasket into place before sliding the adapter onto the studs. I used blue loctite on the studs into the block, SS lock washers under the nuts. I replaced everything that bolted onto the front of the block. I highly recommend that you use all OEM parts inside the engine, and replace all the lash adjusters and roller followers with OEM.

 

Excellent way to upgrade another Ford FUBAR on these Tritons... wish I had thought of this! Ultimately it's the heating and cooling of that adapter that probably causes that gasket to fail and leak. And yes.. ****-poor design (imo). I will upgrade to your solution if I ever have to replace it again.

For those of you new to this issue: If you have an oil leak on the driver's side that you really can't explain or readily find - look at this adapter and the gasket it sits on. It's the adapter where you screw the oil filter onto. They will eventually make a YUGE mess if ignored. Well worth the few bucks to replace it during your timing job when you have the cooling system drained. I've read about people changing this gasket and taking an anti-freeze bath.. lol. So may as well do it while it's all empty.

In addition to a new timing gear and front cover, I changed EVERYTHING when I was torn down.. all hoses, serp belt, pulleys, clutch fan, water pump, etc. Probably overkill but in my logic - the 'ol girl has been running nearly twice as long as my old-school engines, so she deserved some new parts! Inspect your parts carefully when you're in there.

Oh almost forgot... one thing I DIDN'T do when I was torn down and wish I did was the A/C pump. Mine died not too long after I did my timing job and it blew chunks through the entire system (I suspected there might be a problem with it but I'm certainly no AC expert). While not a huge pain to get that pump off, it would have been LOADS easier had I did it while I had the radiator and front cover out of the way. So if you have a lot of miles on your AC pump or suspect there's a problem with it - you might consider dropping in a new one. They aren't that expensive and you'll rest with the knowledge it's new. I replaced my pump, orifice valve, drier and upgraded to a parallel type of condenser. Works great!

 

My ‘07 with 105,000 miles is running perfect. Owned it since new. When I look down the oil fill hole with a flashlight, it looks squeaky clean from what I can see.
There is an independent shop near me that specializes in 5.4’s. I dropped in yesterday and spoke with him and he says he has done over 90 timing jobs on these engines. I explained my good running engine to him and he recommended I still do the chains, tensioners, guides, new OEM Motorcraft oil pump (standard volume) lock-out phasers, and he’ll re-program the ECU. Price is approximately $2200, with all Motorcraft parts.

what are your thoughts? Should I be pro-active and get him to do this?

 

 

be cheaper to just monitor your oil pressure with an actual gauge and have piece of mind that way.

https://www.f150forum.com/f107/oil-p...triton-487543/

 

There are some who have over 300,000 miles with no issues. It's the luck of the draw. You talked to a salesman and not a technician. Don't fix what's not broken. Also, if you like power and gas mileage as well not not having to maintain a hundreds of dollars third party tune, I wouldn't lock out the phasers.

Wow you had a pushy salesman masquerading as a mechanic.

 

I've got a 5.4 with 240,000 KM on it. Pretty strong engine as well, but I've had the chain rattle for years that I have put off doing. other than that, the engine is solid. But having the knowledge of the downfalls of this engine, combined with hearing the chain rattle, has caused me years of anxiety.
Finally getting to doing the whole timing job and lockouts in the next month or so. If somebody was skilled and knowledgeable as said third party shop and offered to do all that for $2200, I would have jumped on that years ago, even with the lockout adjustment to the engine.
Having my mech do it for me is going to cost me more than that $2200. I would do it for $2200 over having that worry about blowing up my engine hanging over me every time I drive it, even if you get lucky and have a lucky truck.

 

Fool us once?

If you decide to be proactive and do the job, I most certainly would NOT use an original pump. Many would agree that the original pump is what started the entire mess with these Tritons. Go with a high volume like the Melling H340 and switch to 5W30. Also upgrade the other components while you're in there. The rockers were redesigned to improve pressure up top. The Phasers and chain tensioners were also updated.

Like others have said - you just got lucky with your engine. Kudos to you! Buy a lottery ticket! . From the hundreds of people who had timing component failures on this engine - it's not a matter of IF your engine will need the parts replaced... it's WHEN.

 

I think the problem is not the OEM pump. I put a hv 340 pump in my truck and the pressure runs the same as the OEM one did.
The problem is when things get worn and tolerances increase then there's internal bleed off and the OEM pump have a harder time keeping up.

 

The problem is when things get worn and tolerances increase then there's internal bleed off and the OEM pump have a harder time keeping up.[/QUOTE]

The second part of your post is right. But I am wondering where do you get your pressure from?