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Yes, we plan on starting from scratch. The spring compressor will be here tomorrow and I will start removing the rockers. When removing the rockers do the cams have to be in a certain position? I don't want to move them at all if I don't need to when removing all 24 rockers.
Personally at this point I would probably just mark the cam caps and unbolt them all a little at a time until you can just lift the cam out. It seems like a lot of work to do all the lifters and keep from dropping a valve keeper when you already have the chains off... And I'm not sure you can remove any of the few rockers that the cam is pressing down at a time
the lobe needs to be pointing up or be in a neutral position to use the compressor tool.
Be very careful do not force turn those cams. At this point you did not get crank dot and cams in proper position before removing chains . Since it hard to see exactly where you are at it is better for you to remove both cam shafts at this point , that will insure no valve to piston contact -no valves will be pushed down. Slowly release cams bolts in sequence a little at a time . Then when they are out put crank dot at six oclock , Then you can chose two ways . one put all follows in and careful put cam in at proper position and slowly tighten in sequence to 89 inch pounds . Or put cam in with no followers and install them with tool later . Its still 89 inch pounds in sequence sneaking up on slowly it.
Me i hate that nasty tool time eating junk .
One guy puts chain on ,the other has a socket on cam phasor bolt fighting spring pressure. It doesn't take much to line it up. FTM has you take certain followers out so there is no spring pressure and you can do it by yourself. However you have to be careful with that tool that you don't disturb the valve keepers and drop the valve in the cly . See why I don't like that tool .
You must fully understand this mechanical timing alignment before you jump in .
The cams on number one and five are to check you are putting it in the proper position .
LOL...that roller follower (rocker) tool is the devil. Sheesh. I recommend the screwdriver method of popping out and in where possible.
Also, I so wish I would have put all the roller followers in with the exception of the special intakes and exhaust on 1,4,5,8 and then installed the cam slowly tightening. That would have saved me about 4 hours in the hot Florida sun. I said words that I have never said and never care to repeat because of that tool. LOL...
I'm also planning for the following, haven't picked a source
Melling M340HV/M360HV (any recommendations on which?) Or other Melling pumps recommended?
Oil pan gasket
VVT solenoid housing gaskets
Water pump
Going to check/replace as necessary
idler pulleys
oil pickup tube
I've got really new valve cover gaskets, so unless I damage them, I think i'm ok there.
Same with the VVT solenoids.
Need to pick up the needed fluids as well, planning on switching to 5W-30 oil, unless the recommendation is to stick with 5W-20 even on high mileage engines.
I'm praying I don't find anything really messed up, about as much as I'm praying that I don't open it up to find everything fine (because where do I go then)
Ok, about to order all the parts to get the project rolling.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
The eBay kit you list doesn't have the latest roller followers, I believe the latest with the smaller oil holes is 3L3Z6564A. I ordered the "Ford Racing" PN M-6529-3V kit from Summit, these are different but I could not find 3L3Z6564A in a kit anywhere. I have a 2004 and just realized the lash adjusters in that kit may not work in an 04.
Amazon has the M340HV pump for $120ish, I just received it and it looks like a legit part.
The eBay kit you list doesn't have the latest roller followers, I believe the latest with the smaller oil holes is 3L3Z6564A. I ordered the "Ford Racing" PN M-6529-3V kit from Summit, these are different but I could not find 3L3Z6564A in a kit anywhere. I have a 2004 and just realized the lash adjusters in that kit may not work in an 04.
Amazon has the M340HV pump for $120ish, I just received it and it looks like a legit part.
I've seen this question come up before, but also seen ford tech reps answer that the lash adjusters in the m65293v kit will work in a 2004. If in doubt I would try calling ford racing tech support number on the package and ask, but I'm planning on using them in my 04
Hv340 or hv 360 , the higher pressure spring on the 360 is for racing in my opinion . Too much pressure is bad for seals . More is not always better if you are serious call melling . I don't have the hv it wasn't out , I have the m360 . But I would use the hv340 if I went back in .
Tearing down a race car engine after each run is a lot different than what we do , we are in for the long haul . A leaking rear main seal is a big deal to us .
Hv340 or hv 360 , the higher pressure spring on the 360 is for racing in my opinion . Too much pressure is bad for seals . More is not always better if you are serious call melling . I don't have the hv it wasn't out , I have the m360 . But I would use the hv340 if I went back in .
Tearing down a race car engine after each run is a lot different than what we do , we are in for the long haul . A leaking rear main seal is a big deal to us .
Agreed redfish. People may think the 80 PSI pump is a better pump, but they are both identical except for the bypass spring. The M340HV will bypass (dump pressure) at 60 psi, the M360HV will bypass at 80 psi. Without the F-150 having a real oil pressure gauge, I have no idea what oil pressure is at high RPM's, but I'd guess it is rare to exceed 60 psi. And like you said, your likely blowing seals or an oil filter at much higher than that. The VCT's will work fine above 25 psi, no need to ever go above 60 unless maybe race applications.
Like most of us on this forum, if you're not racing and you have a higher mileage engine - go with the M340. That's what I did and it works great. 25psi hot idle using Synthetic 5W30. And my engine looked like the insides of a pinball machine when I first took it apart! Probably should have replaced it, but I had no choice but to repair. Even with all the scoring on some of the journals inside, she purrs today at 188k miles. They really are an amazing engine once you upgrade them properly.
My thoughts were also the same about higher oil pressure on old seals, so I went with the 340. From what others have said and experienced, the M340HV should have been the pump Ford used from the get-go. Basically it's a stock pump with more volume. I also read that many of the shops that rebuild these engines use the M340 as their stock pump.
Oh and PS:
Once you switch to 5W30, a neat finishing touch is to swap your oil cap to match. You can get them on Amazon. Although I do my own oil changes, I thought it would be a good idea to change the cap just in case I had someone else change the oil. The cap is less than $7 at the moment, so what the heck!
