Yes if you have all the rockers in it will require vice grips or a wrench to turn cams, you shouldn't have to move them very much though. You can always just move the crank a little and leave the cam right where it is to get the chains lined up.

 

Ok, thanks! One other question. The driver side phaser needs to be turned 180 degrees so the L is pointing upwards as stated in the manual and on the video. It's ok to manually turn the phaser to the right until the L points up even though these are very stiff? It won't hurt anything?

Much appreciated!

 

Did you not remove the roller followers on cylinders 1 exhaust,4 intake, 5 intake,8 exhaust to unload the camshafts?

Also, following FordTechMakuloco's extensive timing chain replacement guide, I didn't have to turn a loaded camshaft by hand. Hmmm...

 

No. Don't turn it with the chain removed and the rockers in!

You can bend valves that way. You're supposed to put it to TDC before removing the chains, then when you put the new stuff on it should already be very close and just need slight tweaking to line up.

 

Ok, so it seems we should definitely pull the rockers. I wasn't here when he pulled the chain, but he did say that it was TDC like the video when removed them. But he also moved it from TDC after removing everything so he could use the crank alignment tool to set the crankshaft position correctly for timing. So the crank was turned but he didn't do anything to the cams yet because they are so stiff. Only installed the new phasers.

Once he gets the rocker removal tool and pulls them, I'll report back if the cams rotate freely because we still need to get those cam phasers rotated in position per the service manual and video. Lets hope he didn't mess anything up with the valves.

 

Well perhaps he took it apart at TDC on the exhaust stroke, so the R would have been up on the driver's side and the L up on the passenger side which is not really a problem in my opinion but now if you try to line up per the instructions your cams are 180 out of phase.
but you shouldn't move either the cam or the crank very far with the chains off (unless you remove the cam from the head or remove all the rockers) because it's an interference engine (valves can contact the pistons )

 

Hey, Thank you.
I'm not sure how I missed the part number, I searched all over Summit Racing and couldn't find the kit. I must be blind, the pn was the first line of your post.
Thank you very much.

 

Just something to keep in mind:
If you have any doubt about the timing... don't be afraid of taking it all back apart and starting over if you still have that front cover off. Never get in a rush at this stage! Double and triple check with a buddy or two if you need to. Never hurts to have an extra set of eyeballs on it.

I worked alone, so my best friend was my digital camera. LOTS of before and after photos. I also had my laptop next to me with Maculoco's videos so I could follow step-by-step as I was timing everything.

 

Yes, we plan on starting from scratch. The spring compressor will be here tomorrow and I will start removing the rockers. When removing the rockers do the cams have to be in a certain position? I don't want to move them at all if I don't need to when removing all 24 rockers.

 

Here's my idea assuming your are not replacing all lash adjusters and roller followers (bad idea to not replace.)

Some people remove the camshaft. If you remove both camshafts then remove roller followers from the following cylinders:

• Cylinder 1 exhaust exhaust rocker
• Cylinder 4 intake, both rockers
• Cylinder 5 intake, both rockers
• Cylinder 8 exhaust rocker

Then make sure or move the crankshaft to the proper position (Do you have the crankshaft alignment tool?) with cylinder 1 at TDC.

Then replace the cams. It should be easy with the rockers above removed as the cams will be in neutral position. The cam position should be as prescribed by Brian, FordTechMakuloco. Follow the torque pattern and torque to 89 in lbs. on the cam tower bolts.

Then, put your chains on. Then pop in the rockers.