getting a complete diagram from a friend that works at a dealership Monday afternoon so I can go over everything to recheck

 

This guide is great i love it but i havnt seen anything on the tools required to do this i was told theres a special tool to keep every thing in line thoughts

 

My first thought is that it is an air leak making noise like the pcv system or the evap purge system. Although I have no leak, I definitely can hear air around the purge valve.

 

Yes there's a cam chain tensioner tool that's a plastic piece on the end of a metal rod (I prefer a flexible rod over a solid metal rod) that you shove down between the chain to put tension on the tensioners to keep the chain from dropping down into the crankcase and completely losing your timing of that bank. Check the link below for reference or if you just want to buy that one. Works great...Fordtechmakuloco has a video on using it as well but I couldn't find it quickly however the diagram in the link pretty much sums it up.

 

Thanks i appreciate that just wanted to make sure i had all the necesary tools

 

Finally got to take a look at my truck today and found my vacuum problem. Thanks for ideas and solutions given. I had two hoses hooked up wrong and caused me a lot of codes and extra new parts to be put on. On the bright side I shouldn't have anything like accessories go bad for quite awhile. Now all codes are gone and running great. Really appreciate the forum and al members who are willing to help and give information

 

Have seen this before 2 hoses on passenger side get swapped . one is vacuum to purge solenoid the other is filtered air to passenger valve cover . filtered air goes into passenger valve cover and is sucked out on drivers side valve cover . A mesh is in drivers valve cover - no pcv valve , ford wants you to buy a whole drivers side valve cover - absolute BS design .

 

I think pretty much all of us can agree on that statement! I ended up boiling the hell out of my valve covers to clean the PCV the best I could. I used my turkey fryer and an old pot. A lot of crap came out, so I call it a success.

 

I have the timing problem where when the car is warm it will occasionally be off timing, for instance when i’m pulling off the freeway it does it. I suspect it’s because I didn’t use genuine Ford phasers when i replaced them but i thought i’d ask the pros first. I put my Scan tool on the truck and watched the live data. When my truck shakes because of off timing, it says that one or both phasers are at 4,000 degrees of timing. Obviously that’s impossible but has anyone seen this before? Do y’all know if replacing the phasers with ford ones will fix this?

 

Your reading is more like 40degrees retarded (not 4000) and if at idle you are getting this number then phaser is definitely stuck. I posted my phaser screen shot of a good working 5.4L at 1100 rpm torque braking engine - that’s when you supposed to get 40 - then it advances back to around 0 degrees when back at idle. So yeah aftermarket phasers would give you problems-
( I should also mention if you have vct error reading available- it will be way out of wack with a broken phaser at base idle explaining why engine will stall - error should be around 0)