Just curious about that

 

The timing parts were replaced AT 7500 original engine miles, or 7500 miles AGO ? I can't imagine an engine with 7500 miles needing anything done to it as it's not even broken in by that time!

If the timing job was done just 7500 miles ago, that speaks volumes on the parts that were used and/or the experience of who did the job.
Sounds like you have poor quality parts in there and one of the phasers let go. And if the chain tensioners are blown out already, they either weren't changed to begin with, or poor quality parts. Ford supposedly redesigned them so they wouldn't blow out like they were. So it's possibly someone chased a bad Ford part with the same bad Ford part.

Did the engine unlock once you pulled the timing gear off? That would be my first concern. If it's seized (such as a dropped valve, etc) - bye bye engine. A new engine is about $2500 on up depending on where you get it, options, warranty, etc. I was looking at Fraser engines when I discovered my timing gear went out. I'm still planning on getting a new engine/trans from them when my engine eventually dies. https://fraserengineco.com/#

How does the rest of your engine look? Chain guides intact, or laying in your pan? Rockers, lifters, etc?
If the engine isn't seized and you decide to rebuild, I would replace ALL of the timing gear. Don't skimp here. Use Ford OEM only with exception to the oil pump and maybe the chain tensioners. Most of us here use the Melling high volume M340 or M360 pump and Melling ratcheting chain tensioners. Everything else is Ford OEM, especially those damn phasers.

And depending on your miles, you might replace the rockers and lifters too. They were both updated since 2005.
The new rockers have a smaller hole to help with oil pressure and I'm not sure what they did on the lifters, but the older style was known for coming apart (that's what one of mine did before I owned it).

Oh and PS: Switch to 5W-30 synthetic oil and Motorcraft filter if you haven't already! There are other threads about this if you want to get more into it.

 

I'm going to finish pulling it apart tonight. The oil Pan has to come off yet and the timing cover isn't off but I do know that there is plastic tensioners And I think it still has the original oil pump. The left cam lifters looked good.

 

The latest and greatest fomoco phaser part number as far as I know is 3L3E-6C524-KA
if it's a dorman or any other no name phaser I'd throw it in the trash bin.

 

If you can, post PICTURES! Lots and lots! Most us of knuckle-draggers love pictures!
I can't seem to locate that phaser part number you listed. Perhaps the number isn't correct or complete. Sometimes they are hard to see on the phaser - especially used.

I'm also curious about your phasers. I've ran into my share of counterfeit parts during my timing job so I'm always trying to spot the fakes. Those thieves are getting very clever these days and even the best trained eye sometimes miss them. FordTech also has a great video about fakes. Anyone who does this timing job should watch that video.

 

Agreed! No Dorman - unless you plan on selling the truck 5 minutes after you put it back together! LOL! <sarc>.

There's also those Melling phasers that look like the part number has been scoured off. I read somewhere those are an actual Ford OEM phaser, but was marketed under Melling? I don't know the full story behind them. The last time I looked, they cost more than the Ford OEM anyway. Not sure why. The last place I seen them for sale was on Rock Auto, but I think they've been discontinued or something. Best bet is Ford OEM and get them from an AUTHORIZED dealer that stands behind their parts and warranty.

 

The first pictures are of the phaser that looks good. The number is real faint on the front side of the phaser. The last pictuure is the one I haven't removed yet. Doesn't look good to me. I'm going to try to take the rest of the top end off tomorrow night if it isn't so terrible hot. 71 years old so I don't like the heat that much. When I get more of it off I'll take more pictures of what I find.

 

that last one does look like the timing wheel might be coming off the front, but I think the only way for that to happen is for the bolt to back out or break unless the rivets/welds between the front and back pieces of sheet metal come apart?
May have been improperly torqued on install?

 

I can't get the engine to turn even after removing the chains and camphasers so I think the rest of it is shot. The timing stuff was replaced 7500 miles ago. I also was told I should use tensioners off a 99 5.4 since they are all metal with no silicone gasket on the back of them. They are a ratcheting type from what I was told. I found another engine that supposedly was redone but I'm going to pull everything off the front and redo it with good parts before putting it in. I don't know if it was proper torque or not but I know the bolts were terribly hard to get out

 

Don't rotate the engine with the chains removed UNLESS you remove the cams.also.

the engine is interference so valves will eventually meet pistons if you do that

May be a moot point if a piston is seized or a cylinder is hydrolocked though.