NO, not the VVT housings. I'm talking about the chain tensioners (se photo).

Mine is also 5.4 (vin 5). The BT402/403 Melling tensioners come with a metal adapter plate that goes behind them on earlier engines. From looking at a photo, it looks like the difference between the tensioners is the BT429/430 are non-ratcheting and plastic housing? I'm not familiar with them, so I can't be 100% sure.

In the photo of the 402/403 I attached, you can kinda see the ratchet mechanism on their tops to the right of the plunger. And their bodies are all steel. Those plates are also steel and approx. .030" thick or so, and far too thick for a metal gasket as I thought. Or at least any metal gasket I've ever used. I've really only seen metal gaskets on old carburetors and the like (way old school). I should have known better to think they were a gasket!! I worked as a machinist for 30 years... DUH! We all goof at some point. Just damned glad something didn't scatter and turn my engine into a yard sale.

PS:
Speaking of VVT housings, I did a write up about taking them apart to clean out the screen inside. I didn't even know there was one inside (apparently many people didn't realize it either). I didn't know until I pulled that large screw out so I could sandblast the housing. The screen on mine was clean despite what the rest of my engine looked like after the timing chain had its fun with the timing cover. LOL!

 

FordTechMaculoco just released another video on why you DO NOT use aftermarket timing components. I know this topic has been beaten to death, so take his video for what it's worth:

 

I watched that last night. I think the biggest mistake besides the dormant phasers was the previous job not cleaning out the oil pan. That would probably wreck even the best new components.
the thing I learned from that video I never knew before was about the aftermarket chains being so rough on the backside and chewing up the guides. Pretty much steered me away from thinking I could use melling chains along with ford phasers....I don't want to invite for prematurely worn chain guides...

 

I apologize, I have read and reread thread. This is my second time doing this full timing job. First time 2016, 30,000 miles ago🙄. Last time I used dorman parts, this time I followed all Fordtechmakuloco links and advice. I originally ordered the melling timing set from Rockauto. I took the phaser out of the box and the thing exploded apart in my hand. I found 2 of the pins in the box so it was coming apart before it ever made it out of the warehouse. Sent back. Follow FTMUL link, ordered Ford OEM timing set, melling hpv360 oil pump, ford oem vct solenoids, sensor, dropped oil pan and cleaned, cleaned pick up, timing cover, valve covers, etc. Got all back together and it didn't sound quite right, but no codes. Was starting drive test, when it said to accelerate up to 40 mph and hold, as soon as I eased on gas pedal, I felt and heard pop, then horrible tapping. Shut down, towed home, (may have shed some tears), opened up driver's side valve cover and it puked a roller on #8 cylinder. I have sunk every available dime at this point into this so I could only afford 3 rollers for #8 cylinder. Put back together, I can feel a slight misfire, but OBDii code for cats, which I know, but also p0022. Every thing is new. Shout I get a new wiring harness? I am at a loss. Also, a landscaper and this is my work truck. I need this and am losing money and hemorrhaging it on this truck all at the same time. This has been since March with parts delays etc. Any help is appreciated.

 

I would not start with a new harness. The code means bank 2 (driver side) is over retarded. If you want to try something free and easy remove the driver's side sensor and swap it with the passenger side see if it stays where it was.
The other thing you could try is pulling out the vct solenoid on the driver side put a rag over the hole and run the engine for about 5 seconds in attempt to flush anything that could be clogging it out of the oil passages and then reinstall. If you are careful you can even reuse the seal.

 

How did you guys get that many miles on them? I'd have to drive it every waking moment I'm not putting a transmission in it or stuck in 2nd... 2008 F150 ExtCab 8'Box, 60,832 miles. I bought it in 2012 with almost 40k, transmission #3

 

Third trans? Ouch. Mine just hit 180k and the trans is original. No problems (knock on wood). I don't abuse mine, change the filter once per year and keep the fluid clean. I also (recently) installed an external filter and an oil pan with a drain plug during my timing job.
HEAT is the #1 killer of an auto trans. If you don't have an external cooler.. .GET ONE. and don't chimp out on it. Get a good one (not those older cheap tube/fin designs). And if you tow a lot - hell, put a fan on that cooler too. It won't hurt!

Are there any similarities between your trans failures?

 

Can I get opinions please. I bought an 05 F150 with the 5.4 that had all the timing components replaced. At about 7500 miles I was driving it when I suddenly got a bad rattle and lost oil pressure. I shut it down but it is locked up tight. Pulled the valve covers and intake off so I could look at the phasers and timing chains.The tensioners are shot due to the seals blowing out but the chains were still tight on the phasers. I pulled the driver side phaser off and it looks like brand new. The passenger side phaser however looks bad due to the fingers being bent. Am I probably looking at a new engine?? This guide is amazing for all the info and tips and I want to tell everyone THANKS. Not easy to get apart but you all made it easier

 

By the way the phaser I pulled off was a FOMOCO 3L3Eb06524.

 

actually that could have been a rebuilt phaser were the tensioners plastic