I'm assuming you checked all the obvious such as any missed electrical connections, fuel pump fuse (or connector to the rollover switch - however you disabled the pump if at all)... PCM connectors fully seated, etc. Does it have spark? If you happen to miss or break the crank sensor in some way - She's dead until it's repaired.

You'd be surprised what can be missed. There's a ton of crap that has to be removed during this fix. Even the best mechanics occasionally miss the most obvious things! One of my all-time favorites was the neutral safety switch on my older cars. I've beat my self to death for days chasing that one... ROFL.

 

what manual is this please?

 

I like your instructions. This is an old thread, and not sure if this will be read. I have a 2008 f150 5.4l 3v with 230,000 miles on it. Bank 1 in getting P0016 code and making quite a lot of noise. Stalls a lot at idle, and think the timing chain has jumped. Question is, when I open everything up, I want to replace rollers and lash adjusters. Is it a good or bad idea to take the camshaft off to do this easier, or should I try to replace everything with camshaft locked down.

 

In my opinion (an un-professional, non-mechanic, DIYer opinion based on personal experience), I think you have to remove the CAMs to get the lash adjusters out. Plus - it gives additional inspection and oil passageway cleaning capability. I did mine that way. I removed my cams by removing cam cap bolts a little bit at a time up and down the cams until spring tension was relieved.

Be SURE to mark Cam Caps (if not numbered on castings) and make sure they go back in same position & orientation. For heaven's sake, don't mix up cams between banks. Clean out lash adjuster wells and BLOW the heck out of the little oil holes. And those SMALL little oil passageways in front cam caps. Soak the new 'lashers' in oil before re-install.

I 'carefully' set new roller followers in place - and 'very carefully' set cams back on and tightened cam caps 1/4 - 1/2 turn up and down the row until seated, then torqued them. Only knocked a couple of rollers off a couple of times before getting it done. (I KNOW - that's redneck'ish. But I don't care. I hated the spring compressor ---- before I threw the damn thing against the front garage wall!!).

One small side bar. Make SURE your engine is set in proper TDC position BEFORE doing ANY disassembly on this job - no matter how you address cams. Good Luck. If I can do it, anybody can.

 

This is the way

 

Thank you for the fast reply. I am a redneck too, and can't pay someone for this job, so we are trying to learn any tips along the way. I have never pulled a comshaft before, and was wondering if they will only go back in one way. Don't know if that makes sense, but would hate to turn the cam a little when putting it back in. Anyways, thank you for the post, and the reply.

 

My first question to ask myself is: How ling do you plan on keeping your truck? If you plan on keeping it, you might consider doing the full timing job.
At 230k, the rest of your timing parts are no doubt worn and in my opinion - need replaced. I think you're asking for trouble if you don't go all the way and get that front cover off and take a look at EVERYTHING inside. I won't lie - getting that cover off can be a challenge, but you're really going to be hating life when you do the job half-way and end up right back to where you started.

You say 'a lot of noise'... My guess a cam phaser, chain adjuster or both have failed. In worse case - your chain guides have disintegrated and ended up in the oil pan. If that's the case - prepare to remove the oil pan because the pick up tube partially plugged, (this is exactly what happened to mine).
And while you're in there - you can replace the original oil pump with the Melling M340 or M360 pump. Ford's OEM under-powered pump is most likely the reason your engine failed to begin with.

NO - you don't have to remove your cams to R&R your lifters (followers). Sure - it damned sure helps, but you don't have to.
YES - you'd have to use the funky spring compressor, but once you get the hang of it, that tool isn't too bad. Just get a GOOD one. Some parts houses like Autozone may rent you one. Having small hands is a bonus too. My Sasquatch hands didn't make my job any easier (lol), but with patience, I got it done.

And watch FordTechMaculoco videos on YouTube. He is a 5.4 God and shows you exactly how to do this job right the FIRST time.
Watch his videos... and watch them again.

I'm not a pro-mechanic either. Just another back-yard Joe with above-average mechanical skills. I have multiple health problems and I still managed to do the full timing job. Yes, it took me a while, but I got it done and you can too! Don't let the engine's complexity scare you off. It's really not that bad. FordTech's videos were the lifesaver though.

Good luck!!

 

Got the front cover off today, and bank 1 timing chain guides broke apart, as you guessed. The phasers are ok, but going to replace them anyways, along with rocker arms and lifters. I really don't
want to do this job again. Now to figure out how to drop the oil pan. lol Thanks, and yes, I watch Ford tech's videos quite often, and feel like I will be able to make this old engine survive for a while longer.

 

buy the valve tool and timing tool off Amazon pretty cheap now get the new lifters with the larger galleys new vets go to Ford parts giant really great deals now on 5.4 stuff.. New water pump and melling oil pump you can get the melling chains that are cheaper also get steel adjusters.

 

buy the valve tool and timing tool off Amazon pretty cheap now get the new lifters with the larger galleys new vets go to Ford parts giant really great deals now on 5.4 stuff.. New water pump and melling oil pump you can get the melling chains that are cheaper also get steel adjusters.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-4-6L-5-4L-3V-Engine-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Crankshaft-Positioning-Tool/254776686176?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOME SPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180213162448%26meid% 3De947d359e52c44f28903ed6cc4efa12a%26pid%3D100930% 26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D184292725283%26itm%3D25 4776686176%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490%26al gv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2 332490.c100930.m5375