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Bad sensor? When your doctor tells you that you are over weight, do you tell him his scale is wrong, or his blood pressure cuff is faulty? I would suggest try to relate mechanical / electronic effect of disabling the VVT sensor input to the PCM. For one, it knows the sensor is unplugged and thus cannot reliably actuate or control the Phaser ----- so it doesn't even try. Could that mean the Phaser itself is faulty, or the VVT Solenoid, or something else. Perhaps, but I'm betting the VVT Sensor (a simple hall effect - coil of wire around a carbon/iron core) is good, or the PCM would probably register an electrical fault indication on it.
Bad sensor? When your doctor tells you that you are over weight, do you tell him his scale is wrong, or his blood pressure cuff is faulty? I would suggest try to relate mechanical / electronic effect of disabling the VVT sensor input to the PCM. For one, it knows the sensor is unplugged and thus cannot reliably actuate or control the Phaser ----- so it doesn't even try. Could that mean the Phaser itself is faulty, or the VVT Solenoid, or something else. Perhaps, but I'm betting the VVT Sensor (a simple hall effect - coil of wire around a carbon/iron core) is good, or the PCM would probably register an electrical fault indication on it.
It was the VVT sensor/solenoid Yes it was BRAND NEW.
It wasnt an electrical issue it actually was just a bad part and had come apart in 2 pieces.
so your analogy or the doctor was quite simply wrong. The simplest form of testing a VVT sensor to unplug it and verify any changes it makes while on scanner to data log.
It just didnt make any sense that one was always over advanced and one always under knowing the timing had been lined up properly.
I'll take a picture on sensor to show where it seperated and hopefully may help others in future.
Worsi
Last edited by Wiregrass Mobile; Aug 2, 2020 at 12:25 PM.
Reason: Worsing
( First some background ) I bought a used 2008 fi50. 5.4. 8th vin# is a 5. Bought this truck knowing it would need a transmission. Had the truck towed and had trans mission replaced. Drove truck home 42 miles no problems. Drove truck some more, about 20 maybe 30 miles and then started the cam phaser knock.
so roughly 70 miles before cam phaser knock starts
Took the truck to the dealer and was given the news about the cam phaser. I went ahead and had the dealer fix the cam phaser $1700.00.
After the dealer fixed it I drove the truck home, 13 miles. Parked it. drove it 6 miles next morning no problem. The next day I brought this truck on a job,35 miles away pulling a 5k pound trailer. When i got to the job the same cam phaser sound was happening. I shut the truck off for 1.5 hours while i did the job, finished and then drove it to my shop. I shut the truck off for a half hour and then took the truck back to the dealer, 13 miles. When i arrived and while I was waiting for the service rep i left the truck running. But now, the sound was a little different. Didnt sound the same as before. The service rep agreed to look at the truck.
Last friday dealer calls and told me that the engine is now not getting correct oil pressure and I have two choices. replace the oil pump $1800, OR that i get a used engine $3600. when i asked if the truck was all put together and ready to go he said " oh sure we never took anything apart . he diagnosed the oil pump is bad ".
Question, During the fixing of the cam phaser could the tech have overlooked something, left something loose, puncture a seal, etc ?
Is it possible without taking it back apart to conclusively say, without a doubt that the oil pump failed and there is no possible way that something else was overlooked.
Could it be tech error?
Another question, The service reps reason for a new engine is because he cannot tell if there are metal shavings or other internal damage was done, Should i be worried about that? If fixed he will not guarantee the work
Of course i expected this outcome, but something tells me that there can be more to it than just the pump going.
Thank you for your time
Steven Mendez
07, 08 and 2010 f150
( First some background ) I bought a used 2008 fi50. 5.4. 8th vin# is a 5. Bought this truck knowing it would need a transmission. Had the truck towed and had trans mission replaced. Drove truck home 42 miles no problems. Drove truck some more, about 20 maybe 30 miles and then started the cam phaser knock.
so roughly 70 miles before cam phaser knock starts
Took the truck to the dealer and was given the news about the cam phaser. I went ahead and had the dealer fix the cam phaser $1700.00.
After the dealer fixed it I drove the truck home, 13 miles. Parked it. drove it 6 miles next morning no problem. The next day I brought this truck on a job,35 miles away pulling a 5k pound trailer. When i got to the job the same cam phaser sound was happening. I shut the truck off for 1.5 hours while i did the job, finished and then drove it to my shop. I shut the truck off for a half hour and then took the truck back to the dealer, 13 miles. When i arrived and while I was waiting for the service rep i left the truck running. But now, the sound was a little different. Didnt sound the same as before. The service rep agreed to look at the truck.
Last friday dealer calls and told me that the engine is now not getting correct oil pressure and I have two choices. replace the oil pump $1800, OR that i get a used engine $3600. when i asked if the truck was all put together and ready to go he said " oh sure we never took anything apart . he diagnosed the oil pump is bad ".
Question, During the fixing of the cam phaser could the tech have overlooked something, left something loose, puncture a seal, etc ?
Is it possible without taking it back apart to conclusively say, without a doubt that the oil pump failed and there is no possible way that something else was overlooked.
Could it be tech error?
Another question, The service reps reason for a new engine is because he cannot tell if there are metal shavings or other internal damage was done, Should i be worried about that? If fixed he will not guarantee the work
Of course i expected this outcome, but something tells me that there can be more to it than just the pump going.
Thank you for your time
Steven Mendez
07, 08 and 2010 f150
My guess is the low oil pressure was the problem the whole time. Changing phasers out from the top will result in the noise coming back rather soon if the oil pressure is not there. They threw parts at the symptom, but not the real cause.
My guess is the low oil pressure was the problem the whole time. Changing phasers out from the top will result in the noise coming back rather soon if the oil pressure is not there. They threw parts at the symptom, but not the real cause.
I agree. We can only guess, but I would think that either the oil pump , VVT solenoids, or the timing tensioners were/are causing improper oil pressure did they not reccomend doing the entire timing components? It really isnt that much more work even assuming you just take off valve covers to change the Phasers. I always recommend doing all the timing components on this job. It's only a few bucks more for the peace of mind.
I've done about 15 of these jobs and had a customer come to me about a month ago and only wanted to do phasers because 3 shops guaranteed that was the issue. Luckily he took my advice and did all the timing components. Here is a picture of the left guide
Bad sensor? When your doctor tells you that you are over weight, do you tell him his scale is wrong, or his blood pressure cuff is faulty? I would suggest try to relate mechanical / electronic effect of disabling the VVT sensor input to the PCM. For one, it knows the sensor is unplugged and thus cannot reliably actuate or control the Phaser ----- so it doesn't even try. Could that mean the Phaser itself is faulty, or the VVT Solenoid, or something else. Perhaps, but I'm betting the VVT Sensor (a simple hall effect - coil of wire around a carbon/iron core) is good, or the PCM would probably register an electrical fault indication on it.
I've asked to see the doctors calibration record and proof of acceptable tolerance before for some pieces of equipment. If they want to prescribe me drugs saying that "your're just a little bit high" or crap like that, I like to see if I'm really in target taking into account their acceptable range with the equipment.
I've done about 15 of these jobs and had a customer come to me about a month ago and only wanted to do phasers because 3 shops guaranteed that was the issue. Luckily he took my advice and did all the timing components. Here is a picture of the left guide
Heheh... my engine has you beat... This is what my chain guides looked like when I got inside (what guides?):
I agree. We can only guess, but I would think that either the oil pump , VVT solenoids, or the timing tensioners were/are causing improper oil pressure did they not reccomend doing the entire timing components? It really isnt that much more work even assuming you just take off valve covers to change the Phasers. I always recommend doing all the timing components on this job. It's only a few bucks more for the peace of mind.
No, they did not recommend anything.
From what I have read there are multiple things that can cause low oil pressure. especially when it comes to the phasers and such ( exactly where they worked on the truck )
I am just not buying, " the oil pump is no good " part of the story. Just way to much of a coincidence that after only 65 miles issues arose.
I am going to talk with them later tomorrow to ask them how they came to the conclusion that it is just the oil pump.. I am almost positive that all they did was test the pressure and tell me its the pump.
From what I have read there are multiple things that can cause low oil pressure. especially when it comes to the phasers and such ( exactly where they worked on the truck )
I am just not buying, " the oil pump is no good " part of the story. Just way to much of a coincidence that after only 65 miles issues arose.
I am going to talk with them later tomorrow to ask them how they came to the conclusion that it is just the oil pump.. I am almost positive that all they did was test the pressure and tell me its the pump.
Thank you everyone for the responses.
Steven
I doubt they even tested the oil pressure. I would reccomend doing new VVT sensors and all the timing components. Hopefully they stand behind their work and cut you a break for just parts and the difference in labor